1862 major repairs, finally
 

After spending the last 4 months wiring, insulating, sheeting and putting in the wood stove, I can finally go to work on the 1862 in a warm shop.
The last thing I was going to do in the fall was power wash this gooey job. That's when all spark was lost, good timing I suppose. Pushed her into the shop and here we go.
My plan of attack, submitted for your thoughts, because you all are way more reliable then my own ideas. Pull the engine and replace
ignition coils, am assuming this was the problem as all spark just quit one day on both cylinders. The engine is actually pretty clean, the rest of this machine is a mess underneath.
Secondly to work on the power steering that leaks everywhere. Yes Sam, I am finally going to put the parts you sold me way back when to use.
And lastly go after the leaks in the transmission. No idea where they are coming from all I know is that it is quite messy. Any ideas or thoughts or advice on the plan are more them welcome.
I will be at this awhile for sure, the plan is to relax and learn all I can here. I am not the quickest study but man I love to learn .

Ken

So what's the best place to hook onto to lift the engine out of this
tractor?
Ken

I am assume it has a Kohler Mag in it. If that is the case, there should be two "L" brackets bolted to the top of the engine with a hole in the end.

Lets see now how does that saying go. " If it was a snake it would have
bit me" Yep that's it. Thanks Roland

Ken

Left hand under right cyl head,
right hand under left cyl head, lift and slide, walla, out it comes. :beerchug:
Caution, it is a little heavy so don't drop it on yer feet!

Those days are long gone George. Maybe its all the times I did things
like that, has me in the shape I'm in. :beerchug:

Ken

I used an engine hoist using the lifting brackets on the engine. I moved it forward a few inches before hooking it to the lift. I lifted by hand a few years ago but not anymore.
Good luck.

Got the engine out of the tractor yesterday, pretty darn simple actually.
Especially after reading past posts and leaving it on the mounting plate.
Pretty messy however. Looks like crank seals may be in order here.
Today is pull the fenders day and start the major cleanup of the whole deal.
Maybe if we can get to 35 degrees this afternoon we will get it outside
and pressure wash. Hope you all have a great day.

Ken

Just warm enough yesterday to get some 30 years of crud cleaned up on this
project. Even managed to try out the new Cub hauler. Cleaned up
nice, at least I can see what the heck I am looking at now.

Attachment 106899

Attachment 106900

Attachment 106901

Attachment 106902

Ken

That's shiny clean.

Couple of questions for you folks. Going to start taking the upper steering and
steering box and power steering cylinder out today. I have another cylinder
and box to replace these with as they are leaking bad.1) Are the O-rings
at all the hydraulic lines generic hardware store type stuff or are they
specific to this application and need to be ordered? Have never messed
with hydraulic lines much. 2) Is it a matter of just unhook and rehook
them up or is there more to it then that? Probably a silly question I know.

3) As far as the engine cleanup goes. How much should a guy take off
the engine before he hits with the power washer? I can't even see the
valve cover plate or the breather for all the muck. Was thinking I would
just leave it as is a have at it. Remove flywheel and PTO? Thanks

Ken

I don't know anything about the power steering but what I can say is, with the engine, I would remove the shroud, flywheel, PTO, coils, and any other wires I can. Then make sure to block off the intake, exhaust, and spark plug holes, as well as any oil fill or drain plugs. Also if you can find it :biggrin2: the crankcase breather.

I wouldn't want any water getting inside that engine, but still want it to all be clean, so be sure to block off ALL possible ways that water could enter the cylinder or crankcase.

Download these 3 manuals

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=25397

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=13226

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4648

This should get you started. If your on FB join Cub Cadet Cyclops, I have the full Cyclops service manual in our files section.

Thanks guys. Pulled the upper steering today and fortunately it all looks
pretty decent. Will go after the power steering box and cylinder today.
Replace the box with the extra one I have and rebuild the one I pull some
day. Oak has a great tutorial on that job on here.

KenAttachment 106932

Attachment 106933

Attachment 106934

Got the power steering box back in and the Steering cylinder replaced as
well. Waiting on an O ring to put the dash and upper steering back
together. Checked on replacing some indicator bulbs for the dash,
42 dollars for 6 bulbs. Made me chuckle, probably OK if they don't all
work.
Note to self: When you take out the steering cylinder, don't push
the rod back and forth before getting all the fluid out. Or at least don't
have the oil connections pointed at your lap when you do:biggrin2:

Ken

The dash bulbs are generic T5 wedges. I replaced them with LED's for a reasonable cost.

Thanks a bunch Frank, I will look for those, it would be nice having them
all work, just cus they should.

Ken

I think they are T-1-3/4 wedge bulbs.
https://www.bulbtown.com/T_1_3_4_Min...ulbs_s/859.htm

More info on the lights, thank you.
So after being educated on Corn Head grease here a while back, now I need
some education on CV grease. The grease I cleaned out of the steering
parts was heavy heavy. And apparently quite effective as the drive hub and
other parts were in great shape. I bought some CV grease per the manual
yesterday in town and when I got it home its actually oil. Says grease on
the package. It obviously won't pack into the steering parts.
Wheel bearing grease the same? Different Brand?
Another trip to town, Grrrrr.

Ken

Also working on a parts list for doing a reseal on the transaxle.
Have these part #s from other thread dealing with an 1864.
None of these part #s are in the diagram parts look up anymore.
However, I can order the parts by those numbers simply by searching
for them.
Long winded way of asking for some confirmation that these are the
right parts to re seal the 1862 transmission. Thanks again.

transsaxle seals and gaskets

921-3004 gasket 1 cork gasket
721-3014 gasket 2 carrier gaskets
921-3020A seal 2 axle seals
921-3015 gasket 1 rear cover

Ken

I have seen conflicting definitions for T5 online. I think the confusion is a metric / English thing. The T5 sockets and bulbs I purchased were all 5mm across. So I assume the T5 in this case is metric. A T5 English bulb would be 5/8 of inch wide.

I confess, I don't know what makes CV grease different or if it's even necessary. Every Cyclops column joint I've taken apart had old hard grease in them. Probably never greased, original grease.

I always repack with chassis grease. Same with the driveshaft CV joints. I've had no problem doing this and been doing it for years.

This from the WWW table of knowledge:

CV joints require a special type of high temperature, high pressure grease (Molybdenum Disulphide based). Ordinary chassis grease or multipurpose grease should never be used in a CV joint; the MOS2 is needed to provide a dry-film lubricant to supplant the grease.

I use Mobil 1 grease in every grease point on the tractor, CV joints included. You can lookup every part by clicking on the "Cub Cadet parts & service look up" in the header.

Those are correct.

Thank you
for the confirmation. I am finally starting to get a little better handle on
the diagrams. No real surprise\, I was looking at the wrong ones.

Also wondering about the gasket shown in the Picture. Would that sealant
been from the factory or am I not the first one in here? #9 in the diagram
I think? Am also curious about the #14 handwritten in the other pic. Maybe not the first
one in their either.

Ken
Attachment 107017

Attachment 107018

Attachment 107019

That is from the factory, the other I do not know...

Haven't updated this one for a while, still plugging away and having
a good time working in the shop.
As the engine was running quite well when I started this project I
was hoping to just fix up some leaky seals and gaskets and put it back
in. Looked like I had some head gasket leaks so went ahead and pulled
the heads and the jugs to have a look. Was actually quite pleased as to
the shape of the inside. No scratches or ridges whatsoever in the cylinders
and didn't look like it had gotten to hot.
While waiting on some parts for this I will pull the back end and get
ready for the reseal job on that. For the first time in my memory I am under
no pressure get this done fast and am having a great time just putting
along and learning loads. The info here on OCC is invaluable. thanks

KenAttachment 107090

Attachment 107091

You're having way too much fun. :biggrin2::beerchug:

Indeed, I am having a great time here.:beerchug: I know this has been addressed
before but refresh me please. As far as cleaning up these heads goes.
Will a regular wire brush, or perhaps one in the drill do damage to the
head surface? I started in on them with a plastic scraper and some brake
clean but it might need more then that.

Ken

I use a brass wire cup brush, or a 3m 120 grit roloc if I'm in a hurry.

You're going to want to surface them anyway, so as long as you're not removing material or leaving gouges it'll be fine.

I use wire brushes not "scotchbright" type of abrasive.
to easy to loose the flatness of the block.
after the combustion chambers are clean, use a surface plate with sandpaper to insure they are flat or a piece of glass if a plate is not available.
Sometimes a person has a nice flat table saw or drill press plate, also
others have used the kitchen granite counter top. :bigeyes:
Do use a figure "8" while surfacing them.

Just noticed the other day that the Model# Tag reads M18S. I have always ordered parts for this machine just using M18. In fact have never seen the designation anywhere with the S. What is the difference between M18 and M18S? Just thought I would check before ordering rings set for it.

Thanks

Ken

Never Mind. Just found the answer to the question. It simply means it has electric start. Good thing, I wouldn't be tough enough to start with a pull rope.

Ken

Me either. Thank God for electric start. :biggrin2:

Pecking away at putting this engine back together among other parts of it. Figured I would replace the internal parts of Breather Assembly, but, looks like you can no longer buy just the reed without replacing the entire assembly for way more cash of course. No matter what parts I look up I get part#KH-52-035-02-S to replace them. Has anyone bought this breather? What I guess I am wondering does it replace everything in the breather including reed and filter? I can't really tell from descriptions or pics. It is the M18 engine.

Thanks, hope you all are well.

Ken

Kohler updated the Breather Assembly for the KT/Mag series engines and it is a whole assembly.

Valve Clearance
 

Put the barrels and pistons back on the M18 today. I had checked the valve clearances when I pulled the engine and they were pretty much not existent. Now am wondering it I goofed and measured them on the wrong stroke, I don't know. When I went to work on clearances today TDC at compression stroke the clearances are pretty excessive. Pretty close to .016 on both exhaust and intake.

So I don't mind buying valves and going that way but. Having put stuff back together already would a person have to lap the new valves
in like I did the old ones. That could be pretty darn tough with them on the engine.

I did not spit the case on this engine as it was running really well when I pulled it, I had just lost Magneto. So I could be having other
stuff going on inside I reckon.

Thanks for the input.

Ken

You can grind a bit off the valve face on the valve grinder, as long as you still have adequate margin left. Or you can take some off the seat with your valve seat stones. Either will decrease clearance.
Clearance:
.003-.008 intake.
Exhaust:
.016-.019 early (*45 valves)
.011-.014- late ( *30 valves)

When adjusting clearance by grinding the stems, I prefer to not install the valve seals, springs/keepers till I have the gap set properly.
Not only it it easier, but you don't nick the seals, rendering them junk.
FWIW: IIRR the high dollar Kohler valve seals have the same part number as the 6 cylinder mustangs in the early 60's ( other Fords used that engine also ).
A REAL auto parts guy can get you seals for $1.00-$2.98 each or less.

:beerchug:

Edit:
Pay attention to what yer doing, the Exhausts are the ports on the PTO end of the engine :Snooze:

Thanks George. I guess if a guy is going to take some off the valve face or the seat, the barrels would need to come back off or could a guy do that with them in place.:bigthink:

Wondering if I bought new valves if they would be longer then mine indicating that the stems are worn on mine. Been looking around but
can't seem to find an overall valve length.

Maybe I could rob some parts off the 66 Mustang 6 cylinder sitting at the other end of the shop? Just kidding.

I have new seals already for this project. I think what I did was my initial measurement I took I was on the exhaust stroke and not the
compression. Rats. First time working on twin. I go to school everyday around here.

Thanks for the help

Ken

A man quits learning the day he stops breathing. Chucking the valves in the valve grinder would not be cause for cyl removal. But grinding the seats in the cylinder would induce chit in the area requiring cleaning unless one was awful careful sealing the piston bores from grinding debris' it could be done with tape I guess. Do you have a valve grinder and seating tools? (I'm not talking lapping with compound, but actual grinder and stones mandrels/pilots) if not prolly best to just get new valves as they do come longer to allow custom trimming of the stems.

I've accumulated tools of the trade from father and father in law and relatives as well as auctions and now the 'net. Folks today just do not rebuild engines because of time and labor costs. There is no real money in it. One can buy a new short block/long block engine from GM for less than they have in parts and labor with a warranty. I have seen a lot of changes since the mid 50's, when i was just a kid learning. Do check your valve angle if you order new valves as they did go to *30 on the later intakes, it is all detailed in the service manual.

One other thing, if your engine came with RTV instead of gaskets between the jugs and block, put it back that way because your clearance will grow if you use gaskets. I think you understand what I'm saying. All the Magnum's I've seen, come RTV, not gasketed.
Use the RTV sparingly, more is not better!! I prefer Yamabond or Hondabond instead of RTV.

luck!:beerchug: