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Plow lift handle bracket question
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Hi All, got the plow on tonight but the lift handle bracket doesnt allow the foot pedal to go back against the frame. Looks like it might be bent up too much? I still framed some plow videos to try and get a close up but no luck. I can just heat and bend the fingers out but just in case I am missing something, throwing it up here first:
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That one is for the 1x6 1x7 models, it will still work but you will need a longer bolt and some washers to space the the foot rest away from the frame.
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cool that explains it then! I can always bend those tabs away too I would think so the foot rest can then move inward where it belongs... |
The tabs are supposed to be there, a bolt goes through the bracket to keep it from coming off.
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Grind the corners off the tabs to clear the foot fest or shave a little off the end of the it,
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What is he going to do when the forks for the plow frame are there?
There is a manual that shows how it mounts. |
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They mount on the outside of the frame.
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This is where they landed on the foot rest thru-rod...
the manual picture is not particularly clear. EDIT: I discovered a reason to move the forks outward. The pins on that bracket assembly (mower bracket?) come up and hit the form arms now when the lift lever is pulled back. If the fork arms were spread out more the pins would pass them. I will do that tomorrow. |
I'd take the lift bracket off and smash the tabs on the bottom together in a vise. to facilitate the footrest being reinstalled.
The sub frame arms need to attach to the outside of the frame on the rockshaft, not inside as pictured above. The manual has it on the outside of the frame. It's a PITA to get it all lined up- I have a block of wood the correct length I stick in the subframe to spread the arms to get it to clear the A brackets that the shaft bolt to the (tractor) frame. |
for you smashers and grinders read pages 10 and 11
https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/c...nstall+Man.pdf |
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Thanks, I did learn the hard way about that. I had to pry inward the left side bracket with the pin that goes up and down with the lift lever not sure what the components are called. and then pry apart the plow frame forks and then it all came together and works. Plow is rusty but the only issues are it could use a new edge and doesnt have the skid feet things. but we have extremely short driveway and the walkway is dirt and grass no not urgent.
Also the dozer lock latch is bent and pretty rusty so I'll make a new one of those. As to the lift bracket I cut off the extra on the tabs as they add no strength or other function that I could see anyway. Now just waiting for some snow! (and start looking for wheel weights and decide what to fill the tires with) thanks as always for the replies :biggrin2: :beerchug: |
You put a bolt through the tabs and it pinches the bracket on the rock shaft. It helps to keep it from from moving side to side. That bolt you took out on the foot rest is a pain to reinstall as I see...
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As to the bracket bolt, ahhh now I get it. I could fab that back on but in a way that works, but we'll see if it moves first. may not be an issue. more good info though! so, the "rock shaft" is what goes thru the frame and has those bar stock pieces below with the pins, and what the lift handle moves? cant wait for some snow LOL keepin lookout for affordable wheel weights, and decide what to fill the tires with I wonder how bad the traction will be with my 200lbs in the seat but no weights? |
I'm no coward when it comes the cutting, grinding and bending on machinery, but I also like to know the serious ramifications of the result. Sit on the tractor and imagine all the ways that contraption could hurt you if it comes off the foot rest shaft because there's no bolt retaining it. :bigthink: Maybe none, then you're good to go. :Salute:
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I found this on ebay, supposedly the correct item. Model 100 snow plow lift arm. I could make this easily. |
Actually, looks like you have chain on the lift? No problems then.
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With no chains and no EXTRA weight, you will have a tough time pushing much more that a few inches of snow.
Even WITH chains, the biggest issue will be backing up if you get so much snow that it spills over the back of the blade. High speed and good weighted traction is the key here plus (very important) knowing in advance what is UNDER the snow in terms of possible obstacles/obstructions. When the windrow rolling off the edge of the plow gets above blade height, you are pretty much screwed and it's time to break out the thrower or tackle the windrow head on at a 90* angle. Good luck, be safe and have a blast!! |
I figured out that i can probably add a square block of concrete, making a box form and use mesh inside plus rebar sticking out to go thru the cub hitch and a loop of cable to my new upper hitch. that would weigh about 200lb but be kinda big. I am getting prices from foundries for making that in cast iron.
Concrete = about 150lb per square foot. Iron is 491lbs per sq ft!. 17"w x 9"h and 16 deep (sticking off the rear diff by 16") 210lb I dunno. sawdust IIRC pointed out the best weight is on the wheels themselves as it doesnt involve the wheel bearings. But I think they are pretty stout. be nice to find reasonably priced BIg wheel weights and tire fluid. Calc Chloride is heaviest (by kind of a lot). Not sure where to get that around here will have to dig around. Might be expensive too and need a pump to push it thru the tire stem My neighbor merely bought a snowblower at HD and was clearing snow in minutes after getting home so why al I doing all this? Oh thats right is more fun! lol :beer2: |
Electric Plow Lift
these are cool, too bad a little pricey even used. not sure about making one either.
https://youtu.be/Q6Huqe0_s0I |
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