What might it be?
 

I haven't had a Cub Cadet in a while and while sorting thru local sales I caught a picture of one at an estate sale in a nearby state.
There is a rental property I maintain and it would be easier to leave it there. It looks to be of Quietline vintage with a Chrome Cub Cadet emblem on the rear of the hood, 4 digit decal That I can't see clearly, but with an open engine compartment. The sellers family is cleaning up the estate. The family won't go over and look at it
I can read Kohler magnum on the engine, it has the hydro shift on the dash, manual lift.
I'd post the picture but it has the copyright data plastered all over it.
Is there an album of Cub Cadets that is used for identification?

Can't go over and look at it because of Covid ID restrictions. :bigthink:

Any thoughts or suggestions? I too wish I had more info.

It is a pig in a poke.

just post a link to the page its on

What might it be
 

Bought a pig in a poke. Didn't want to post the info till it was paid for.

Wondering what it is?

I know the other thing is a grooming mower. Any hints on it?

https://maxsold.maxsold.com/auction/...ment-b-2074695 lot 0186

Hard to tell, but it looks like a 1320 to me.

Cub Cadet 123

what is it.
 

On tractor data I saw pics of a 1420 and a 1430 that looked close.
I have read that the hydro on those is the weak point.
It's a twin so I imagine the mousies are residing in the shroud.
The magnum verticle twins are all the same, or it camshafts that are different?

I think it’s a 1720, probably from the late 80’s. Not a very desirable model.

One thing for sure, it is a "lawn tractor".

I hate to rain on your parade....
Nothing to get excited about I'm afraid.
Wish you could have posted that picture earlier. I hope you bought it real cheap.

Looks like a 1720 to me also, but not the chrome emblem you describe.
it is worth maybe $20 if you need a few parts, if it has a magnum twin and a deck.
The deck spindles are the tapered bearing type and are replacements for the "water pump type"
the starter and magneto coil are worth a few dollars also.
Cylinder heads worth a few bucks.
it is a vertical engine so not interchangeable with a horizontal for practical reasons.
And yes it is a MTD lawnmower not a garden tractor and a poor transaxle.
The gas you burn to get it is worth more than it is.
Sorry to piss in yer porridge but we all have done something similar :BlahBlah:

The current bid says you paid $1 for it. The key is worth that and the seat, incredibly, looks like it is in good shape. My buddy and I used to buy riders (Murray or old Craftsman) for about $25 each and have races in the back yard with them. After cutting mufflers off and getting straight pipes with cans on them to rattle for kicks, we had an awesome time. Once, he even cut out and painted the Mystery Machine from two pieces of old luan (lauan) board and attached them to the sides of one as a mock parade vehicle. Oh, the wonders of misspent yute……….

Anyway, for $1, you did alright. Have fun with your purchase!

Cub Cadet 123

what is it
 

A 1720 with a 54'' deck and a magnum 17 that may well be frozen. the air cleaner is off of it. one front tire and one rear wheel are sort of off the rim.

Near Clarksville Md and free to the person who helps me load a finish mower I bought.

I get to keep the key unless it's a deal breaker.

It's a woods rn 59

Thanks for the input and the kind replies.

Parts tractor I just picked up with one tire looking like it was rotted off the rim and the other 3 all cracked through to the inside -- they all aired up even the one off the rim after I seated it. 24hrs later they're still holding air!
If you have a portable compressor take it -- getting air in the tires makes loading 'em a lot easier!

What might it be?
 

thanks for the inflation idea.
According to tractor data it's a 46 inch deck. My error.

The metal and hood seem good and I would hate to see it go to the scrappers

On the side of the engine closest to the driver there appear to be motor mounts.

Are the engine cases the same for horizontal and vertical shaft engines, and having a different "oil Pan" with a different oil pickup and dip stick location, in addition to a different oil pickup?

Oh God,
I explained this multiple times and converted one from a vertical to horizontal out of a 1720 about 10 years ago.
----Just because most said it couldn't be done.
The block raw casting is the same, but is machined for either horizontal or vertical applications at the factory.
The crank had to be shortened, machined and a bushing made and key-way milled.
The crankcase cover had to be obtained from a horizontal engine as well as a manifold and gov linkage from said.
The dipstick boss had to be drilled in the block, oiling drain holes in the cylinders plugged and passages drilled so the oil pump could suck out of the sump as well as a expansion plug installed, after passage way was drilled.
Suction screen installed on the suction tube, oil drain plug installed in the sump.

I'm sure there are things I've forgotten. The engine is still in use with prolly 1500+ hours on it.
I did do a .010 overbore & Kohler NOS pistons/rings about 300 hours ago.

The average Joe plumber without a lathe or mill will not accomplish it. The cost to have it done, is plum stupid.

Your engine is worth keeping for parts as is the deck spindles, scrap the rest.
If you want to keep the anti scalping wheels off the deck they can be made to fit the early 50 A&C decks that didn't have them.

Now my typing finger hurts and :beerchug: it is lunch time.

Tomorrow we go on a fools errand to retrieve it. Only because a kind soul with a 4wd tractor with loader will help out.

The odds of pulling the heads and tappy tappy on the pistons to get moving is is?
I guess if I pull the heads and water gushes out, oh well.

Can an engine with closed valves be hydraulically unlocked? An adapter into the plug hole, a grease gun, and pump away?

You don't wanna force it...
After you get it home -- pour a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone down the spark plug holes -- enough to cover the piston tops, loosely replace the spark plug, and let it sit for a day or three... then gently just working the flywheel back and forth.

A new tractor seat costs $90 and this one looks decent...

If it is a 1720, it is a belt driven transaxle no relief valves per say.
the engine is prolly semi free as not an easy way for rain water to run in,
it being a vertical application.
Thinking it might have a small puck type brake caliper that might be stuck
preventing rolling.
You can look it up in cub parts look up in the link at the top of the page.
Been too many years for me to remember positively.