Mini Motor Grader build
 

I'm finally in a position to start the road grader project. Mostly recovered from rotator cuff surgery last June though I still have some weight lifting limitations for a few more months.

I'm about a week into the project.

Donor tractors include a 149 and a 129. The 129's rear end was removed and added to the back of the 149. In retrospect, I should have "Z" cut the frames or at least a diagonal. Oh well. Plated the frame for insurance.

I've fabricated a new engine bed over the rear wheels, and am at the point of hooking up the engine to the drive shaft between the two hydros.

Next step is to get the drive belt installed with a tensioner, get the newly rebuilt K301 running to test the rear drive set up. If I get too much belt slip, I'll either switch to a pair of belts or install a hydraulic pump on the engine and a motor to drive the hydros. Hydros are linked together. Brakes will be tied together as well. All very reminiscent of my Tandem of two years ago.

Once I know the rear drive will work, I'll strip and cut off the front end of the tractor and fabricate the over-blade frame, front end, blade and support structure, control hydraulics, etc. Lots of stuff to work on. This will take me a year I think, with all my other hobbies...

Front tires will be 6x12s or 23 8.50 12s. Rears will be 23x10.50 12 Tru Powers. Low inflation to keep them on the ground with the solid mounted axles.

Power steering, from a Super. Existing dash tower will be slimmed down. Torn about fenders over the rear tires or not. Will depend on how it looks. Motor graders do not usually have fenders...

I want it to still have most of the design features of a WF Cub Cadet but look like a scaled-down motor grader. Many of you have seen similar builds at tractor shows, so this is not the first time somebody has done this. Just my first time... :biggrin2:

Progress pics... Some are just mock-ups to assess spacing of seat location, engine, etc.

Looks like an interesting project. Keep us posted.

:ThumbsUp:

cool project :beerchug:

I like this project. What made you decide on two hydros vs. connecting with chain drive?

looks good, anxious to see the finished product !!:beerchug:

A single drive shaft vs. sprockets, chains, maintenance, adjustments, etc. Seems simpler...

Looking forward to your progress.
:popcorn:

:popcorn:!

The bearing in the charge pump is not designed to take a side load as you have it with your belt drive.

Neat project! :popcorn:

That's a great observation Sam, at least it looks like he's got plenty of room to fab in a pillow block.

I thought about that and have pillow block bearings on hand for just that purpose. Until I saw where a Wheel Horse tractor had the same Sunstrand belt driven. Perhaps that unit had different bearings?

The Toro c-145 I think is belt drive hydro. 1980 vintage. I'm having trouble finding a definitive diagram for the c-145, but what I have found looks like it's driven from the other end, the rear output side in our situation, where there is a better bearing I think.

I have to look at the charge pump bearing again to see what it is. Have one in the bin.

I will be watching this, The C145 had a sundstrand or a Eaton trans pump, but they will not work in a cub, you may want to use a Simplicity one.

Models 01-14KS01 and 01-14KE01

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/ind...oro&lang=us_en

Nice to see you in another project. We'll be watching...:bigthink:

No. Not planning to use one. Just commenting that they were belt driven. In response to Sam Mac's comment that a Cub hydro input shaft can't take side loads such as from a pulley mounted to the shaft. I was noting that the Sunstrand on other tractors is belt driven.

I looked at the charge pump, it has a roller bearing in it. I think it will be fine with a pulley on the input shaft.

I've got the drive set up complete. Next need to put the starter on the engine, set up the fuel tank, carb and electrics. Then test it out before I go any further with the main frame, circle, blade, etc.

Your call. :biggrin2:

Charge pump has roller bearings, or, maybe due to size are classified as needle bearings, both good for radial loads. they look similar to those used in the axle housings.

Some progress. Focus now is on getting the engine configured to run, extending choke and throttle cables, basic wiring, etc. In process of fabricating the front panel to hold the forward end of the hood, which will include a solid panel to stop hot air flow toward operator. Once engine is in running shape, I'll put the four rear wheels on and go for a test ride.

Good to see your progress and that you've recovered from your injuries. :beerchug:

Thank you. I'm about 95%. Still some range of motion limitations behind my back from the rotator cuff surgery. But mostly doing everything as before.

Update on the grader build. I've spent the past week mounting the fuel tank, carb, starter, etc, then extending the wiring harness, choke and throttle cables to the rear. Everything's hooked up and works from the existing dash.

Turns out the starter is not strong enough to start the engine with the two hydros attached. Not sure why because I did not have this issue with the Tandem I built two years ago. And the tandem also had a hydraulic pump in line as well. It starts easily, even when cold.

I tried a different starter, no improvement. I disconnected the drive belt and the engine started instantly and ran great. It's a new overhaul, so first start is always very satisfying. I hooked up the drive belt and using two batteries in parallel got the engine started, and it ran fine. But subsequent start attempts did not go well. Just too much drag on the starter.

I have to adjust the tie rod between these two hydros as they are clearly not sync'd. With the axles in the air on jack stands, it's easy to tell. I don't think that is causing excess drag as each axle is free to spin independently.

My plan now is to install the PTO clutch throw-out arm and use that to disengage the PTO to make starting easier.

I'm looking at a hydraulic pump/motor set up but that complicates things a bunch but also solves some issues. Will keep working with the belt drive for the time being and see how it goes but I don't have high confidence in it.

sawdustdad, just musing about your starting woes, you never mentioned the operational status of the donor tractors.....
could it be that one of the hydro pumps has an internal issue and is providing more drag than it should?
Maybe if you remove the spirol pin from the coupler on the front hydro so the driveshaft is free to spin,
try starter again and see if it turns any easier with just one hydro to spin.

Both donor tractors started and ran fine prior to this point.

Here's a video of the grader rear end test run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on1QGGCEQIg

Very cool Frank. Looking forward to seeing the front end.

I guess the "un-social" media members of this forum are outta luck on this viewing?:crap:

I will upload the video to youtube shortly...and repost a new link.

For the non-social (media) types...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on1QGGCEQIg

I will add that you'll see no turns in this video because with no weight up front, there was virtually no steering control...

Great looking machine !:beerchug:

That video was worth waiting for! :Salute:

Is the starting problem worked out?

Nice vid, What is the next step in your grader project?

Yes, at least temporarily. Disengage the PTO clutch to start, then engage. I have a lever that I've used for that.

Next steps:

Build the front axle assembly--basically the front foot of a WF frame with axle. Install hubs and set up for running 23 inch tires.

Scale out and start on the main frame--from the dash out to the front wheels. Mostly a 4x6 rectangular tube, 3/16 wall, with a few "bends" which will be more like miters. Main frame length about 6 feet. Grader overall length, 12 feet.

Install power steering.

Build seat mount and install seat.

At that point I'll have a basic vehicle. Blade circle, blade mount and hydraulics follow...lots to do.

Ironman:

Yeah, a lot of people are not on Facebook. I corrected the link.

Thanks Roland, I thought maybe I was the only one.

Hey, is there a social network for non-tweeters??
Probably not many tweets on it. :bigthink:

Looks good so far! Is this just going to be for show, or do you actually plan on using it?

I hope to be able to actually use it. But to be honest, it's more just for fun. Something to work on, to stretch my fabrication skills.

Watched your video several times.
Yep, I feel like that sometimes!!
don't know If I'm backing up ahead, or going ahead and backing up, it is all so confusing, winding my ass and scratching my watch.:Unknown::Huh:

Not much physical progress on the grader--in parts accumulation mode.

Did receive a box with the power steering gear off a Super.

Waiting on front spindles and hubs to be able to assemble the front axle frame and determine front axle height with the larger tires.

My local metal fabricator decided he didn't want to deal with retail sales due to being so busy.

Placed an order for over $500 of steel from BMG in Richmond, 75 miles away. Supposed to pick up next week. Needed a 10 foot piece of 4x6x3/16 wall rectangular tubing, had to buy the whole 24 foot piece. Same for smaller rectangular tubing. Also ordered partial sheets of 3/16 and 1/4 inch plate steel.

Got a plasma cutter a couple weeks ago. Have been playing with that.

Mocked up the general shape of the main frame with a piece of plywood. Looks pretty good. Need to replicate with the 4x6 tubing...

A bit of progress. Picked up the steel for the main frame and other parts. Installed hubs on the front axle and 23x8.50-12 tires and wheels. Getting ready to build the main frame. Plan is to miter the 4x6 tubing to match the template shown.

On a side note, picked up a new-to-me South Bend 10" lathe.