3 speed manual transmission leak.
 

1969 cub cadet 124.

Trying to figure out my transmission leak on my 124 3 speed manual transmission. Earlier in the month, I replaced the o ring that goes on to the wet brake push rod and lever and the axle seals that solved it but I have a leak from where the drive shaft coupler meets. Is there another o ring sit behind that coupler?

There is an oil seal at that point.
Shouldn't leak a bunch at that point as it is above the oil level. But certainly could produce a drip or two Should not leak continuously while sitting still.

Seal, Reduction Drive Shaft Oil

Part# IH-385076-R91 (Superseded to IH-385076-R92) 

OEM Warranty Repair Part for Cub Cadet

#20 in the diagram

Well, my worn out clutch is currently spinning some. So I have a brand new drop in clutch assembly that I'm going to be putting in shortly. Maybe this will help stop having drive shaft spinning some while just sitting. Parking brake on. Is this seal behind the plate?

Before you spend $300 for that awesome clutch set up, does your current clutch have these 3 anti rattle springs on the clutch fiber disc? If so, take them off or cut them off, these anti rattle clips can and will cause your drive shaft to spin when the tractor is in NEUTRAL with the engine running. They will also allow the drive shaft to continue to spin once your depress the clutch pedal, causing a slight grind of the gears when you select your next gear. These springs were designed as an anti rattle solution, but was a flawed design. What they ended up doing once installed
or with time, was allow there to be a slight drag/bind of the fiber disc and the small pins on the 3 pin disc plate.
Also, if you don’t have those 3 springs, the center bearing on the 3 pin clutch can be worn out or not have enough lubricant. These will also cause your symptoms listed above.
Attachment 102259

Cub70 is spot on. Also, did you try to adjust the clutch? There is a screw that takes up slack in the linkage, Under the dash tower, at the bottom of the clutch actuator arm. Might be all you need.

The seal should be in the plate. Never replaced one myself, but should be able to do it without disassembling the reduction housing.

GREAT info,t:beerchug:hanks!

Very good information. My clutch assembly is worn out. My driveshaft itself have a groove in it, the throw out bearing making awful noise, the lever where it holds the bearing is loose and worn out. So, dropping a new assembly in seem wise to me. Dont use the spring on the new set up?

YES..... plus 7 more characters

No! Don’t use the anti rattle springs on your new clutch assembly!

The repair manual says use them as needed, I always put one on, not three though...
Yeah I would not put them on that setup.

My worn out clutch have 3 on it haha.

So, I'll have to do it when I change the fluid next time. I just refilled it.

I do like that clutch/drive shaft assembly from Zach Kerber! I am actually looking at that exact same setup in the near future!

With that 6 pin clutch, you will not put the anti rattle springs on.

I plan to upgrade to 6 pin. Bit for now I'm gonna use 3 pin to get me going. Even tho I'll be using 3 pin, my new clutch disc will he predrilled for 6 anyway.

Get rid of those worthless anti rattle springs, I know you said your clutch is worn out, but by removing those springs will help solve the symptoms you listed in your first post.

You will have to split the tractor to get to get the plate off in order to get to that seal.

So with the ass end of the tractor out, you simply rotate it so the input shaft is pointing up and the plate is on top. No need to drain any oil.

Besides, if you are going to be doing clutch work, isn't this the better time to change a seal instead of taking it all back apart somewhere down the road?

And how often do you plan on changing rear end oil in a gear drive Cub anyway?

That is a good idea. I didnt think of that.