Kohler KT 17 Timing
 

I have the manual but not completely clear on setting the timing. The motor is out of tractor with side covers off and I want to set the points right. Since I have not ran it yet I will not be using the timing light method. I have found the TDC and S mark on the flywheel and located the roll pin on #1 side of engine.The manual says when the points begin to open the the "S" mark on flywheel should be opposite of the roll pin. What do they mean.?Do they mean just past the roll pin or 180 degrees from the roll pin?This is the method I want to use.

I'll take a look at a junk engine I have today and see if I can answer this for you. I agree that the manual is unclear. Make sure you use a continuity tester or ohmmeter for this, as you can't see the points starting to open.

I looked at one of my blown motors today, and I think what they mean is that the timing mark should be behind the roll pin when viewed through the sight hole in the blower housing. If it was 180 degrees from the roll pin, you wouldn't really be able to tell anyway...

I don't know about tractors with side covers, but if you have points... I turn the engine by hand until the points are at their widest gap. Double check that the points pin is secure when pushed in toward the engine and the set to the proper gap. Mine is .020. With that method the engine fired "right" up even though it needed a carb rebuild at the time. Have fun.

Point Gap
 

You can set the point gap or you can set the timing. Set the timing. IF you set gap after or before timing it will change the timing. IF the timing is right the gap is right. :bigthink:

Point Gap
 

The above statement assuming you are working with new parts. Timing is the most important thing.

I guess I missed the timing. Gap will change timing. Timing will not change gap. I also thought timing was set at the cam and not adjustable without resetting the cam.

Timing
 

When you set the timing the gap has to be right they are connected. When you have the timing set the points will fire plug, If you check point gap after you set timing and find you have slightly more or less then the recommend clearence adjusting the gap will change the timing you could play this game all day long. Set the timing the gap will be right.

Timing
 

You have me confused now! Correct me if wrong. The points gap is all there is to adjust. So, what do you mean by setting the timing and then the gap or vise versa?The engine is not running yet or even in the tractor so setting the timing is out of the question.I thought you set the points and that was it. So if I am wrong then how do you adjust the timing (set)?What is the best way with it not running yet to set the points?

We are talking about two different animals which get loosely called timing. First and always first is engine timing. Basically this is the synchronization of the valve train to the cylinders. That is to say that the valves are in the correct position in relation ship to the piston and cycle the engine is in. Intake, compression,power,exhaust. The second animal is ignition timing. This is the timing of the spark so that you get spark on time in relationship to where the piston is for an optimum burn and power.

Engine timing should never be a concern unless you make a repair to the inside of your engine (sorta, heads don't count). The only maintenance timing done is to the ignition. This is where your point gap comes into play.

There that ought to keep you confused a while longer.

Yep. Due to wear and manufacturing tolerances, a .020" point gap isn't necessarily going mean that it's properly timed. Connect an ohmmeter to the the points such that the resistance is 0 when the points are closed and infinity when they are open. Turn the flywheel in the direction of normal rotation. When the points just start to break (the resistance will waver before going to infinity) the "S" mark will be under the roll pin in a KT-17 or in the sight hole in a K-series. The gap may vary quite a bit from the .020" spec.

Ignition Timing
 

Thanks Matt you said it better then I did for all who don't have a Ohm Meter you can use a simple 12 volt bulb & socket with two leads and alligator clips conected to the points and ground when bulb lites at the proper timing mark you are good to go. Turn on Ignition switch first motor doesn't have to be running this is called static timing the engine. turn engine over by hand slow. Read your manual for proper fireing mark. I don't know if the S mark is the fire Mark on all Cubs.

Timing
 

Understanding the "timing mark" in the manual is not real clear. I have a meter to use and when I rotate the engine looking at flywheel end, rotating clockwise, when the points just start to break or break there are to marks on the flywhhel. "TDC" and "S". There is a rollpin on the side of engine block for position of those marks to be in relation to roll pin. Manual says the "S" should be "just opposite" of the rollpin when points break.Do the mean just past when traveling clockwise?

According to Matt who knows your motor the S mark will be under the roll pin. Hope this helps

To further clarify...this is what you want: