What to do?
 

Good day and I'm looking forward to gaining knowledge from the best cub owners anywhere.

I picked up a hodgepodge of an old cub. The frame is that of a 127, the hood says 107 and it has a B&S 10-hp motor. I would like to bring it back to original (or close), add a front loader and use it clean out the stalls in my hog barn. I was at bone yard and found a K-241 (sn:C-195835 Spec: 46329D). I know the 127 came with the K-301 12-hp, however if my information is correct, the engine blocks are the same...? I acquired the service and parts manuals for both 127 & 107 as well as the parts list for the Kohler 10-hp that listed all the specs.
I got the Briggs to run and tested out the drive on the tractor, everything work good. Changed the hydro fluid and filter first off.. it was setting outside for who knows how long.

When I tore down the Kohler engine , it was obvious someone was in it before. The connecting rod bolts were loose and the connecting rod itself was not the same part number as listed for the spec on the blower cover ID tag. It was a 4705905 with a hole drilled in it and the crank bore was shot... the spec calls for a 4706702 connecting rod. The crank journal need turned and the cylinder bore needs taken out .010"-.020" not sure what I want to do. I'm getting windy here, so Ill get to the point.

Is there any way to identify the block other than the tag on the blower? With what I see, the blower cover could even be incorrect. I work in an iron foundry and know all about casting numbers and cast date codes, but cannot locate any ID on the block or oil pan.

Should I just go for the 241 rebuild or try and do a 301 12-hp out of what I have?

Some day I'd like my grand kids to have it as a remembrance of papap..

Welcome to OCC Higgins. :beerchug:

Welcome..

Your time your money. I see good used k301's on craigslist all the time. I picked up a good one for 50$ a couple weeks ago with PTO and SG on it.

Best of luck with it

Welcome to OCC.... :Welcome2:

Looks like you have a challenging project(s).

Thanks. I have tried CL without success, unless I want to pay big bucks for shipping. Not.. It's a winter project so no rush. Got $100.00 in the 241. The way it will work is as soon as I get the 241 rebuilt, CL will have a dozen 301's within a couple hour ride.. never fails.

Welcome, where in Michigan are you located?

I have 2 K301s and a M14 magnum but they are all "wide base" Kohlers.
I have the same issue I cant find a rebuildable narrow base one to save my life. I too have a 10hp that I "settled" on.

What to do
 

Well, the cylinder bore needed .030" over to make right, no sweat, got the piston and rings. The crank needed down sizing by .020, got the rod to fit, no sweat.

Now trying to locate a starter/generator. The original Kohler pn was C-231262 per spec 46239 parts manual.. Didn't realize there were so many variations.

Also will require the drive pulley # 231591 and starter pulley# 231278. This project is like a treasure hunt with corn mazes and dead ends, still digging though. Keeping the final results in sight.

Any input will be appreciated. maybe not followed but still appreciated..

For what you can buy a decent 127 for I'd find a good one and keep this one for extra parts. On the other hand, if you enjoy tinkering it's an enjoyable way to spend all your discretionary income.

Welcome to OCC!

Leroy, Sunrise Lake area

Spending income? Taking back cans for 10 cents is funding this project... it helps I'm always thirsty..
Can anyone provide the OD of the Drive Pulley? Going to use a double V-grove to power a hydraulic pump as well as the belt to the starter/generator.

Nothing against adding the pump, but I'd hate to see you go through the time and expense without making sure you know that a lot of hydrostatic cub rear ends have ported pumps.

Someone's definitely going to chime in and correct me here, but any model ending in an odd number or 50 with a lever coming out of the right side of the dash tower is likely a winner. These rear ends are bulletproof and never fail, therefore they are readily available and dirt cheap. Some tractors are even set up with dual port hydraulics, complete with the valves.

Totally worth looking at if you're looking at spending money on a pump, valves, and a set of bigger front spindles, along with time fabricobbling it all together.

Welcome to OCC Higgins! :Welcome2:

Have you searched on Facebook? You can find some pretty good deals on there from folks who just want to get rid of there tractors they'd lost interest in. There's quite a few in MI. Go to marketplace and put in your location and the search distance. I found this one that was just listed yesterday. A good deal with attachments as well.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2361473470131/

Best of luck!

Well, it lives... and sounds great, if I can keep it running. Fuel delivery problem, aside from that she's cherry....

On another note, the wiring heats up quick when wired to the regulator per the schematic, bypassing the safety switch and not lighting.... I'm running it on the bench before I make the transplant to the tractor. Specifically the wire coming off the battery side of the starter solenoid to the ignition switch (also bypassing the amp meter). If I eliminate the white wire from the regulator to the key switch, it fires up and runs good, however now the generator is not putting out. The regulator is brand spanking new. If I wire it per the schematic, there is function of the key switch and as stated before the wire from the key to the starter solenoid gets hot and will burn if I don't disconnect it..wish I could figure out how to add the drawing to this thread..

Are you using an original VR? Or is it aftermarket? Many of the aftermarket VR's have the wires oriented differently from the original. Look for the stamping on the tabs to make sure it is wired correctly

Yes, it's an after market and the terminals are not the same as the OEM, however still identified and I confirmed about 10 times it's wired correctly. Had my two sons who are mechanics look at it and they are scratching their heads as me! I'm missing something.

Attachment 101111

Yeaaaaa I figured out how to attache the wire diagram. The green wire wire from the regulator is white in real life...

All is well, had the VR wired incorrectly. Terminal out the back was not the ground...live and learn. The 127 runs great with fresh 241. I put a scoop on the front for now, works great cleaning out hog stalls. Picked up a 128 with cracked block for $100.00 including a running k241. Everything appears to be in working order. Can anyone tell me if the M12 block and K301 block are the same and interchangeable?