No crank situation with a CC 122
 

I have a no crank CC 122, battery is good, no click.


1- If i don't hear a click, if it's not the battery, what else would it be?
2- How do I hot wire a CC 122? (is that the same thing as jumping the solenoid?)


Thanks for your help. I am a complete newbie to troubleshooting a mower of any kind that doesn't start.

Simple circuit really. It is more than likely your clutch start switch. Trace the circuit using this. The switch is located under the tractor on the clutch/brake linkage, it interrupts the start path to the start solenoid until clutch/brake is depressed.

1X2/3

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

Thank you. Is that the same as the "safety switch" in the diagram?

I will look in the morning. Thank you!

How could one bypass that switch to hot-wire start the engine?

Hey welcome to OCC ! I never encourage a “hot wire/by-pass” recommendation especially since you are new to the tractor and it’s wire diagram. Seriously, people can get hurt this way. So, sounds like to me that you are not getting power back to the starter solenoid, which would allow power to your starter generator. A test light and multi meter are great tools to understand and have. To begin, search the problem here and expert advice is written and given. Also check into the 122 Operator’s manual for the schematic of your tractor here in the Tec section of OCC. Learn and enjoy the journey!

Theres no reason you cant jump the safety switch "for testing" by the way... ALL my cubs are currently undergoing "testing" lmao. Jumping the safety is just like it sounds. Use a piece of wire to connect them together.

As Far as safety switches go,
they are a pain in the ass, but have good intentions and the clutch/brake ones I feel, are very important and the only ones I will not bypass.
That said, a simple test light or CHEEP meter will quickly determine if a switch is functioning, especially the simple 2 connection normally closed or normally open variety.:beerchug:
Also check the IGN switch as many are known to corrode and loose contact.
Sometimes a simple wiggling of the wire connector on the back will yield results.
Let us know what you find

A test light works just the same. You can locate power right to the problem. The only time I ever had to by pass a SAFETY switch was when the spring steel engagement lever broke. If the safety switch was bad you should have power going to it. So it’s pretty easy to track this down on these models. But to each their own.

Good news. After cleaning the contacts very well, shaking wires, and tightening the connections it now turns. What a good feeling that is. :)

It does start but only starts when I pour starting fluid directly into the spark plug opening. The spark plug looks dirty (at least 3yrs old) but it does create a spark (i turned the key with the plug out and saw it spark), and it does start for a few seconds (with white smoke) only when i pour starting fluid in.

Took the filter out, it's not so bad.

I did add fresh fuel a week ago, and mixed in starting fluid into the tank today.

Now, onto the next step, where do I go from here in getting it to start and keep running?

Does this have a fuel pump or is it gravity fed? In the past, when on un-even ground, while having little fuel in the tank it did die on me, so i feel this is gravity fed. Is this a fuel line issue?

Ditch the pouring in starting fluid!!
Not a good idea.
Fix the carb and be done with it, that's where the issue lies.
You might just wash down the cylinder walls and score the surface.

Next time you have it running, adjust the carb.
It should start w/just a bit of choke when cold
If not, you have other issues

Hi finsruskw, thank you!
Any videos or diagrams you can recommend to help with this?

Good news! It's running now. I got it to start after putting in a new spark plug and filling the tank with more gas, and changing the tension on the carb. Lots white smoke, i think the white smoke means more gas or not enough oxygen, right? when i dial the throttle down (idling) it's still white smoke .. I will run it longer in the morning and see if this thick white smoke goes away.

too much gas/not enough air is black smoke

blue/gray smoke is oil burning

White smoke is steam/water vapor (if it's cold enough outside)

My guess is it's oil. It might go away after a bit of run time, or it might mean a rebuild is in your future..

still smokes cant tell if it's white or bluish.. i took a video and will post it here.. ran out of gas for now but towards the end after changing the clutch and RPM the smoke stopped ..then ran out of gas. I will post the video here in an hr.

The video shows the broken pto, and missing items (holes in the dash i dont know what they are for) and a walk-around so I will be looking for your expert advice on what is broken / missing when i post the video.

Here's my walk, showing the sound, the smoke, and the missing items.. The engine sound changes towards the end (runs more smoothly) right before it runs out of gas.

Can someone help me figure out what is missing, and what is broken?

https://youtu.be/j-Q7Zv7ltQA

Thanks

Not too bad Ethan. Your 122 has some decent options like creeper and rear lift, wheel weights.

The round hole in front of the shifter that you point to first is where the breather for the creeper should be sticking out of. Hole by keyswitch is where light switch should be. You’re missing the choke cable, should come through the dash where the bolt is in that hole. Missing front grill and headlights. Missing vented clutch cover, steer wheel cap, fender reflectors, Drag link steer linkage rod end should come up through the bottom of the left steer spindle link not go down through the top like you have it because it will jam and bind in a tight turn and get bent the way it is. Looks to be smoking oil some and running pretty rough, maybe choke is closed partially due to the lack of the cable? Nothing a little TLC might take care of, carb clean/adjust, head gasket, resurface head, static timing, lots of little things you can research here to solve some of its issues.

Another cool thing is that you have an “oops pedal”. Look it up to see what I’m referring to!

Last but not least let’s get rid of that boat seat! Good luck and do some research, read the free manuals on this site, knowledge is power and there’s a lot of material in this site to read.

Alvy, thank you so much.

I will research what you said, some of the words you used are new to me, hehe.

I want to start with a good seat. What's a good place to get a seat?

I do have a grill, and a cover that goes where the lights are, i put these on today.

Looks like it's burning oil. I've seen worse, but it's not far from needed a rebuild. It might be struck rings and it might improve with some more run time, and I'd run it like that for a while and see. You might be able to free up the rings somehow if that's the problem. More likely, the cylinder is just worn. Bore the cylinder and rebuild.

The front PTO doesn't appear to be working. The pressure fingers are cockeyed, the actuator lever probably doesn't have the fiber button and has damaged the fingers. Remove and repair.

Overall not in bad shape.

Nice 122. I think the part where you say it smoothed out at end just before running out of gas tells a lot. It tell me that that before you ran out your fuel mixture was likely off. As it ran out or started to run low the situation temporarily corrected itself. It seems like while running you never achieved full throttle RPM. I would suggest a complete go through of entire fuel system. New lines, hook the sediment bowl back up, clean or install new carb and adjust. Then I would check and adjust the governor.
Anyway. looks like a good platform to be a great little tractor. Best of luck with it.

That is where I would start!

Agreed, That would also explain why it ran smoother just prior to running out of fuel

And I think we all agree it is running rich:beerchug:

Nice tractor and some nice options. Good luck. Definitely read the manual. It will answer most, if not all your questions and then some.

Chris

Awesome! thank you so much for the info and support. I will do what you suggested.

Where do I start looking for a seat?


Thanks!

You can post a "want" here on the forum. There's always Ebay, and Tractor supply if you just want something to sit on, as opposed to original .

I'll share that if that is indeed oil burning ( we wont know till you get the engine running right with some carb work) , oil is very cheap AND it'll run a very VERY long time using a little oil (if you check it before you run it)

Thanks for sharing it!

Update:

When I started it after my last post here it ran as it always does... then a few minutes into that the RMP increased on its own and seemed to run more smoothly. I lowered the throttle a little to bring the RPM down, brought rpm down, then it died. It would crank and not start, with throttle fully open to fully closed i moved it up and down and cranks fine but no start.

this happened on a slight uphill.

let it sit a day, then started it, started on the first attempt.. Then the same happened. Except this time when cranking it started to puff out black smoke, and it seems as if it is about to start running but it never does run on it's own.. Crank crank and nothing, then i lower throttle to the middle, and it seems like its about to take and puff putt white to black smoke and just wont keep going on its own if i stop cranking engine stops, doesnt take.

What should I do?

Remove the Carb. Dismantle the Carb. Clean the thoroughly. Reassemble and adjust per the Service Manual.

Northern Tool sells a nice seat advertised to fit cub cadets. It's what I've been putting on many of mine.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...9222_200519222

I agree although I’ve gotten the same one cheaper at rural king and they come in black or yellow. I did buy the Northern seat Frank pictured in the past and it held up well.