trunion repair
 

Ok, I'm getting ready to do the trunion repair on my 782 and I am not real sure how to get the speed control bracket off so I can get to welding up the trunion? I can see down where it conects bot unsure of how it comes off?

I just threw some wet rags over my hydro when I welded mine...

I plan on doing the wet rag thing but I want to remove this bracket so I can repair it also. It is very worn and needs to be re-shaped also. I can't belive how dirty this beast is! I started to scrape all the years of dirt from it. The arrow points to the rod but I do not see a way to remove it? The pics i have found for the repair show this bracket removed from the pump?

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...i/IMG_0418.jpg

There should just be a snap ring on the outside end of the rod.

WOW...that's worn really bad...you can see where the little button on the trunion spring is about to come through the side of the rectangular hole.:bigeyes:

jbollis, is correct. There is a snap ring right where your arrow is.

If it were mine I would pull the transaxle out, wash it and then repair the trunion. A clean transaxle runs a lot cooler than a dirty one. Plus, it's a lot easier to repair the trunion with the transaxle out of the tractor. Just my opinion...

yeah I would love to just yard it all out but I do not have the time. I got limited space in my garage and don't need another project strewn out all over the place. I am planning on cleaning up the pump as good as I can while the fenders are off. The trunion is worn right through as you can see But I'm sure I can weld her up pretty good. I just want to put the old girl back to use as soon as possibe.

I did my 149 not long ago. . . For me it was easier to take 15 more minutes to pull the hydro than to fight the confined space in between those frame rails. plus cleaned it up. Took the whole Hydro chucked it in the vise. Turned out great. Had enough room to fine tune it with a file.

I think I am going to order this trunion repair kit for my 1250.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-28-001.htm

If you've already got a welder, how is that easier than welding and filing the corners? Something about welding that huge thing on there and throwing all that heat into the seal doesn't really sit well with me...

"shrugs", to me just seems easier to do it with the kit and have exact square dimensions, than know my crappy welding and filing, will probably make more of a mess than fix it :) .... I also I would not see the need to lay a complete bead around all four sides, creating a huge amount of heat as you suggest. But then again, that's why I am here, trying to learn. Think I'll just do more reading and note taking for awhile, less suggestions :bash2:.

I still think that if you're capable of welding the repair piece on, you're definitely capable of welding up the corners. I've had to do 6 or 7 of them...not a big job. In my opinion and experience, it's just as easy (and cheaper) to just weld up and grind/file the corners.

BTW, don't forget to shim that plate that pivots on the trunion shaft, as that causes the same issues...I learned this after doing the repair we've been discussing in this thread, only to continue to have the same problem:bash2: I then realized how wobbly that plate was on the trunion shaft.

The repair kit would be alright if you cut off one of the long sides and (leaving you with a square "C" or "U" shaped piece) and then cut yours off the same way and welded it the new part on where the old one was, but you would still
be filing two corners.

I agree with zelda, it only takes a few minutes to pull the transaxle out. I bet I could almost pull a transaxle faster than I can get the clip off while it's still in the tractor.

I also agree with Matt, welding the whole thing on creates too much heat.

I'm not a welder at all and I was capable of welding mine up. I bought the repair kit but I let Matt talk me into attempting the "filler" method and I'm glad I did. Definitely do the shims too. I just went through all of this about a week or two ago on my 127. It works like new now!!!!

BTW I used the repair piece as a guide for filing.....

LOL, ok, i will give filling it in and filing a go. What's the worst that could happen? Extra filing? hahahahahaha.... I had read about the shims, I think the local Tractor supply store had some shims back in the hitch and pin area. Mine had a small amount of wobble but seemed to center up pretty good. Are the inner dimensions where the springs go, 3/4" x 1 3/16" ?

Well, I got her all welded up and put back together. It seems 200 percent better. I should have snapped a few pics but I was kinda in a hurry. I got pretty sick of doing a few tacks then waiting, then repeating. I wrapped a wet rag around the linkage then cut a slit in one of my old leather welding jackets and slid it over the unit for extra precaution. I do need to adjust the linkage a bit as it wants to go in reverse a bit when I let off the brake but it is safe for me to use now. It doesn't want to fly forward when I brake now, haha! It was pretty scarry there for awhile. I can actualy get into some tight places when mowing now instead of being scarred I was going to crash into stuff. I'm new to these beasts but am learning very quickly to work on them. Thanks to all that gave me advise as it helped greatly. :beerchug:

OK, I admit that fill welding the trunion arm was not that bad. I wrapped a soaking wet tshirt around the shaft and over the transmission while welding and only filled a bit at a time and filed, then filled and filed. Probably only took 20 minutes time to do it. I no longer fear fixing those things :) ... thanks for all the input and suggestions.

new springs, pins, and all cleaned up and rust removed and smoothed out.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...e/DSC01083.jpg

All I have left to do is to get some shims for the brackets
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...e/DSC01084.jpg

Matt - could you elaborate on "shimming the plate"? I've got the parts for the trunion repair, and a new gasket for the leaking hydro/transaxle joint. So when I get the tractor split I want to get everything done at one time.

Was it you that recommended replacing all the rag joints and their Nylock type nuts when doing the hydro creep repair?

Might have been me. I replace the rag joints if they are bad when I take the driveshaft out, and I pretty much always replace the locknuts, since they don't lock very well the second time. I put shim washers between the cam plate and the snap ring that retains it on the trunion shaft to reduce the side-to-side play in that assembly.

I will have to order the shims from McMaster Carr, none of the local hardware stores have anything that thin.


This might help:
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/b...sale/shims.jpg

Matt - thanks!

While we are talking about reducing slop and friction, has anyone tried using or making UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight polyethylene) washers? This self lubricating material is used by woodworkers to make jigs and drawer slides, so the wood slides easily over the surface.

Grainger and Amazon.com sells it in 5mm thick self-adhesive tape for under $7.

I was thinking of its use anywhere Cub Cadet has a thin plastic bushing, this stuff might work much better.

my trunion bracket looks like zelda's. Except, both corners are worn so bad from the spring end caps they are super close to going right threw the little metal that is left.
1. What will happen if this problem is not repaired and the end caps go threw the metal?

2. When the trunion bracket is repaired, can I reuse the springs and end caps?

Thanks for the help again.