Clutch basket / pulley set screw is stuck on
 

Hello, Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove the set screw that locks the pulley onto the crankshaft on my cub cadet 108 (stock engine). It won't budge and I am pretty sure i have stripped the opening that the hex key goes into. I have also tried removing it by chiseling the top of the screw counter clockwise, but the screw still won't budge. Below is a picture of the screw in it's current state. I don't want to go any further without some input... Lots of WD40 has been applied over the last couple of weeks. Thanks.

IMHO, WD40 is worthless. I much prefer penetrant "PB Blaster". Works so much better. Try that and see what happens.

IF....the PB Blaster was unsuccessful and this were mine, I would dig out my Oxy/Act torch and heat that hub up to loosen the rust bond. That should set that screw free.

Try some heat!

WD40 isn't the best of penetrating oil. Did you try Blaster or Gibbs. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorite.

if/when you get the screw out, don't expect the ass'y to just fall off.
That may be another whole battle in itself.
I think Jeff makes a puller/tool to ease one through that issue.
Good luck!
Just one more GOOD reason, not to leave this equipment set out in the elements.

Insert a pin punch that just fits in the hex where the allen wrench fits .
Then whack it smartly.
That shocks the set screw, & usually loosens it.
WD 40 is a water dispersant not a penetrating oil as mentioned.
If you have stripped the hex, try a metric allen wrench, hopefully you have not split it yet.
A new allen wrench is recommended as you need all the grip you can get.
If that all fails, heat from a torch played on the area around the screw will usually help, last ditch effort is drilling it out

Thank you all for taking the time to reply. I will definitely get some PB Blaster next time that I am in town. If that doesn't work, then I will try my propane torch. I have never used the heat approach to remove a stuck bolt, so this will be something new for me to try. I will post a reply once I get the screw out. Ross

Thank you too ol'George, I'll try your recommendations before I resort to the heat as I'm a little leery of starting a fire in the basement.

Ok, I applied the propane torch for about two minutes and the screw is still stuck. Sorry about my previous post as I can see now that I will not start any fires if I am careful. Anyway, if I end up having to drilling it out, what type of drill bit will I have to use. The last time I resorted to drilling out something (a spirol pin), it was pure hell and I didn't make an inch of progress on it. The metal on these tractors is very hard.

See if you can find "KROIL" . It's the best penetrant I'll found. A 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF (yes, automatic transmission fluid) works great but is flammable

Looks like enough is sticking out to weld a bolt to it.

Thanks Jeff. Tomorrow I'm going to find whatever we have up here in Ontario (Kroil, PB Blaster and whatever else). Then I'll apply it over 4 or 5 days before giving it any more tugs. I just have to be patient and not let this get me twisted around. Thanks again. Ross

Thank you too darkminion 17. I hope I don't have to resort to any exotic methods to get this screw out as I don't have the wherewithal to pull it off.

Acetone and transmission fluid 50/50 mix. works great. Keep soaking it . Also, work your wrench in both directions until it frees up.

Cooperino, Thanks for this info. Much appreciated.

These days, lots of allen wrenches are made from chineesium and will round over quickly. Use quality tools made of quality steel. Dress the end of the wrench on a grinding wheel if needed to remove a rounded off end.

Hammer in a metric socket Allen wrench if you have to and use a small impact to give it a few rat a tat tats.

Bill:

I have heard about this before. So I mixed up a 50/50 concoction and comparing it to PB Blaster, I went back to the PB. I found it didn't work as well.
I am PB Blaster kind of guy...LMAO

Here lately, every can of that darn stuff I get, about 1/2 way through it, the pressure dies and I'm left with 1/4-1/2 a can w/no pressure.

So drain it in a pump oil can.
I dropped a nearly full can once and broke the tip off, so it was salvaged.

Same happens to me. I drain off the pressure, puncture a hole in the bottom, and drain it into a Plastic Zoom Oiler Bottle. Works great.

You don't have to waste or dump the oil into another container. Here is a video that shows how to refill aerosol cans.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mimSDtqljMA

It works I used this on some primer paint cans, that had quit spraying.

Going to try that tomorrow. I also have a can of PB Blaster that is almost flat.

I keep Kroil an PB on the shelf as well.. I go for my cheapo mix whenever I know I will be using a lot and most will end up in the drain pan.

This is sage advice. Spot on.

If it does come down to drilling, the set screw will be softer than the roll pin which is hardened/spring steel. I keep a few solid carbide twist drills on hand for such an occasion. (mcmaster.com has them). Drill then use an easy-out to remove the set screw. Buy some extra carbide bits, they are very brittle and will break if not careful. Actually, probably will break anyway. So get a couple.

Before trying to remove any difficult set screw, touching up the end of the Allen wrench on the grinder (or a belt sander) to get a nice square end is good advice. Allows for the best "bite" on the fastener.

Thanks Sawdustdad. I know what ol'george posted is the right way to tackle this problem. Even I can tell because it steps through from the least aggressive approach to the most aggressive approach with the emphasis and pointers on the least aggressive so as not to worsen the problem right off the bat.

So far I have used about a third of a can of PB Blaster without success. The opening for the hex key is fairly worn now, but I think I may be able to get some bite if I push the hex key straight down through the hole in the PTO clutch basket. I have made a few attempts to grab the nib of the set screw with small vise grip pliers, but now they keep slipping off. I'm going to stop doing this because I don't want to damage the integrity of the set screw any more than it already is.

At any rate, I'm just going to let the screw soak in PB blaster for a while longer and then try a few more tugs with the allen key. If that doesn't do it, then I will apply heat with my propane torch. After that, I don't know. I have been looking at left hand drill bits (something new to me), but I can't see how I would be able to drill straight given that there is not enough room for the drill chuck to get by the pulley behind the PTO basket.

Anyway, I'll let you know how it goes. One way or another, this screw is coming out.

Thanks, Ross

You can buy a drill bit extension, a few bucks at a decent hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot. I think I'd try drilling and try an easy-out if the heat and PB doesn't work.

I had a stuck set screw on my 149. Heat and PB Blaster didn’t touch it so in the end I used a left handed drill bit to remove it. Places like Auto Zone sells these. Many mechanics at the dealership I work at use this method. As you drill it out, it releases pressure on the screw and it has a backward turn and releases the screw. Used it many times myself. Worth as shot

I'd go with welding a nut on it

That was my 1st thought also, Tom

I'd go with a nut that will screw onto what's left of the set screw threads you can see in his picture, I believe they are 1/4 NC

The welding will induce heat into the screw ad surrounding hub, and will probably do the trick after waiting a few moments before attempting removal.

I would try finding an easy out that will lock into the hole and give that a try. :bigthink:

I hate easy outs.:bash2:

Agreed. If it doesn’t budge right away it will end up snapping. I deal with a lot of rusted allens at my job and have found that if most of the ways mentioned (not in that order) are unsuccessful, my go to last resort before drilling it out is pounding a torqxe socket into the Allen and try. The many teeth of the bit grip and bite into the Allen and also the shock of hitting it in there will sometimes help loosen it. If even more stubborn I put a 1/4 or 3/8 breaker bar on it (depending on size) and hit on the breaker bar while applying pressure to loosen. Using an impact driver works as well but you can’t “feel” what you’re doing as much because the impact/breaking motion is only determined by how hard you hit it.

Let us know what works

5/16-18 NC

Turn the nut on what's left of the set screw, mig weld it on and then try to turn it out.

Everyone, Thank you for your input, It's really great to have such support. The set screw is still stuck after many attempts using PB-Blaster, hammering it with a pin punch and using a new hex key after applying heat. The nib on the end of the set screw is definitely compromised now as my last attempt involved applying heat from my propane torch and then dremeling a slot for a flat head screwdriver into it. At this point, I'm not going to try mig welding. I'm sure this approach is solid, but I've never mig welded before and the engine is fairly heavy to be carting out to someone who can do the welding. Instead, I'm looking at purchasing Irwin Industrial Tool 11119 - Screw extractor with matching left hand cobalt bits. They look to be of good quality for working on hard steel and are available up here in Canada (not everything is). I'll let you how this ends up once I get these extractors and L/H bits.

I'm wondering where the point is in the progression of yellow fever it is that one would be scrambling through the circulars, looking for that holiday 25% off coupon with an excuse to run to Harbor Freight (or in this case Princess Auto), to pick up that cheap 110v wire feed machine that's always on sale and learn to weld?

I learned welding at a trade school, but to be frank, YouTube is pretty awesome when it comes to tutorials. You can become quite proficient in the time it takes to burn through 1/2 a roll of wire. Speaking of which, if you buy the cheap HF wire feed, throw the wire that comes with it, buy name brand wire, and never buy wire from HF again. It's a pretty decent little machine for puttering. I have a steel plate with a vise on the corner of my workbench, and the dented open box special welder I hesitated to buy has proved to become one of my favorite tools in the shop.

Clarification - the $89.99 special is not a MIG welder, it's very similar but uses flux core welding wire in place of a shielding gas. Yes, a real nice MIG would be the proper tool, but I see little point in splitting hairs, they'll both heat the screw and stick a nut to the top of it. 110v wire feed is a good choice for home hobbyists that don't have a 220v outlet in the garage or any other need/desire to own more substantial equipment.

Didja get the other one out or is it stuck also?

It will prolly drill easier now that you have negated the heat treatment it once had with the application of heat from a propane torch
I've had some difficult jobs, but once you heat them up cherry red with a act/oxy torch, they usually loosen.
@ this point I think you are going to have drill this one out.
The pix makes it look shallow, if so, that is in your favor.
I have some carbide bits I keep for special jobs but they are easily shattered,
so caution is paramount and not to be used in a hand held drill motor.

A good jobbers drill used slowly with lube, and pushed hard, should drill it.
At least you have a good center point to get it started straight.
Do as you like,but I don't like easy-outs
They are for different situations.
If the bolt, stud or setscrew was stubborn enough to break off/strip, an easy out will get you in more trouble when it breaks off in da hole, and do remember they are tapered so it expands the screw making a better grip on the threads.
That Said:
I'd try one more chance of heating it up, & driving a torex bit in it while hot/heating,
and gripping the bit with a vice grip and working it both BOTH directions,while hot.
if it moves either way, just a mere smidgen, it will eventually come out.
If it moves ever so little, stop and go the other direction,
you are trying to work it free, not muscle it out
Also, bees wax applied will act as a lube when hot.
Just be aware bees wax will flare up (ignite) so don't piss yer panties:biggrin2:

I'm following your advise ol'George. I'll proceed as you have laid out and keep mindful of not wetting myself in the process. Thanks.

got it out
 

I can't believe it. Thank you for your superb guidance.

Yeah!! Glad you got it out!