Driveshaft Bushing Tolerances
 

Does anyone know what he acceptable tolerances are on the brass/bronze bushings at both ends of the driveshaft on a quiet line cub cadet 1450? I want to check the bushing ID with a Set of calipers.......I'll measure them 6 different ways to get a good idea if they are out of round.

What is acceptable and what is not ?

Driveshafts are of 5/8" stock
If the bushing is out of round, or the driveshaft ends are worn, it's only going to get worse.
Mushy engine mounts and warped/old/soft flex disc joints don't do it any favors either.
Sounds like it's time to go through the drive train and engine mounts, might even be the result of a failed/cracked 3 point flex driver also.

If the ball feels loose on the OD. or ID. just replace them, I think Jeff still
Sells them @ a good price, I had some extras a while back and seems like i sold them for like $14 for a pair, and they were from the OEM supplier.
Also if the shaft ends show wear, replace it
Tractor supply sells 5/8 (.625) shaft, seems like they run a .002 small IIRR.
Hope this helps.:beerchug:

I felt it all when it was together and i didn't feel any bad play in the shaft. Now that I have eheryrhingnapart I wanted to just check the bushings to see if they were ok. I am replacing rubber engine mounts, hydro fan, rubber rag joints on driveshaft. I also did the brace mod on the engine cradle.

Sounds like you're on your way. :beerchug:

You should start one thread on this so you have all your info in one place.

With pictures! :ThumbsUp:

The ball bushings should be snug on the driveshaft and in radial movement ( not loose as they pivot in the "collar" )

Make sure the driveshaft doesn't have any wear either. One worn component can cause all the rest to wear quickly.

Jeff, so I need to check the drive shaft with the calipers to mke sure it is 5/8" and not out of round on the ends?

That would be best. The driveshaft material I've been getting lately has been measuring .623 . A little undersize would be acceptable but out of round will cause faster wear.

I found that the bushing ID on the engine coupler was 0.630. The shaft OD at the engine end was 0.620 and 0.615. There was a slightly worn spot on one side of the shaft. 5/8 inches is 0.625. Are those tolerances acceptable? What do you think about the worn spot on the shaft ? Is it bad enough it needs replacing?

I just measured a brand new ball bushing and the ID measures .627

With the driveshaft, it's already .005 out of round. If you keep the used parts in, you could probably use it for a bit more but keep an eye on it.

As it wears, it will put more strain on the rag joints and the bolt holes. Don't let it get too back or it will trash the couplers in addition to the driveshaft.

Your tractor, your call. :beerchug:
Jeff

Probably best to just replace them for the $15 and maybe replace the driveshaft too if its worn while I've got everything out.

If my shaft in the parts tractor isn't good, how would I go about making one? I saw where someone posted about tractor supply having 5/8 inch shafts for sale. Would I have to let a machinist make it?

You are already talking to him.....
Jeff in PA

Thanks. PM Sent to Jeff in PA.

* Edit: Not sure if the PM sent correctly, as when I check the sent folder it doesn't show any messages.

PM's a little different here than some other forums. I got two PM's and responded.

Jeff

At
 

Should I do the rubber flex disk mod on the driveshaft to (4) instead of (3) that I have read about? Is it worth it ? If I do that, will the driveshaft or bushing couplers have to be modified In any way, or will it just bolt up?

Since he's getting a new driveshaft from me, if he goes with four flex disc joints, should I move one hole closer ( towards the other hole for the extra disc joint thickness) ?

Sorry Jeff. I just got home and remembered you wanted me to post on the forum about this. It was a long day at work. Thank you for checking and I will be following.

Does anyone have any input to this?

I guess it would partly depend on existing conditions. The picture below is of my 1975, 1650 when I first got it. I was able to install 2 new rag joints by simple using longer bolts. I did not add a second at the front of the driveshaft as there was only room for one and I didn't want to drill a second hole in the driveshaft.

My 1976, 1200 was a different story. There was only room for one at the back so I filled the original hole with some rod and a tack weld and drilled a new hole farther forward.

My 1979 1450 came with 2 at the back.

So like I said, your existing conditions...:bigthink:

I'm going with four on my 1450. I got everything for it, just need to do it, lol!

Does the driveshaft need to be shortened ?

The best way to check is assemble it in the tractor with four rag joints and the old worn parts leaving the roll pin out of the rear coupling. that way you can slide the coupler to where it fits properly and mark the shaft. This will tell you if you need to move the hole.