Cozy Cab from 782 adapted to 1872 Super
 

After looking over my Cozy Cab that I just made a 1300 mile road trip to pick up. I took some measurements and decided to see if I could make it fit on my 1872 Super that is dedicated to snowblower duty. My original plan was to build up a 782 parts tractor I have and mount the Cozy cab on it. It seemed like much less work to adapt the cab to the 1872 so I went to work. I first removed the IH weatherbrake I have on it, removed the seat assy and side panels from the tractor. The doors and windshield from the cab and set it on. It was amazed at how close it fit the longer super frame. I slid it forward two inches and added some extension straps from the fender pan mount for the cab and the cab and the back was taken care of. At the front I removed the bolts from the lift cyl mount on the tractor and bolted the 782 frame mount for the cab in place and added a extension strap to that mount and at that time three corners were bolted down. I then put the side panels back on the tractor, the windshield back on the cab and checked it out. Everything looked pretty good and with some additional weatherstripping the hood and side panels will seat up to the windshield very well. I then made a new mounting bracket for the left front side of the cab because the powersteering cylinder would not allow the use of the 782 mount. At this time all that is left to finish up the conversion is make some filler panels for the fender to cab area because the cab was moved forward the two inches and make new panels to fit below the windshield and the frame area. I have some left over vinyl foam panels from one of the farm tractors I redid the interior in to help quiet down the inside and some bulk floor mat material to help seal up the step area. I spent about four hours on it today and plan on spending about that much more on it tomorrow to finish the job. I cannot believe how easy it was to make this cab fit my super. Much easier that building another tractor from parts. Next summer I may just strip it down and paint it.
Here are some pictures of my progress so far. Hope you all enjoy.

Attachment 97518
Dropping cab with my hoist

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Rear cab mount extensions

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Right front mount extended

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Fabricated left front mount

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Windshield fit to hood

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Side view

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Interior view.
At this point nothing on the tractor or cab has been modified or changed. Just bolt on parts. If I want it all can be changed back to stock. I am really pleased with how all this is working out.

Nice work!:IH Trusted Hand:

That is fantastic and a good job...!!!

:IH Trusted Hand:

Very nice and good thinking to make it a "no alteration" fit :beerchug:

Great job! :beerchug:

how do you open the hood to check the oil?

Thanks guys. I really enjoyed getting the cab to fit my 1872. Tom, the windshield is hinged at the top and to open the hood you just undo the straps that hold the windshield shut, lift it open then open the hood and use it to prop the windshield open. It still works as it did when the cab was mounted on a 782. I will take some more pictures when I finish sealing up the gaps and show the hood opened.

Nicely done. Brackets look stoudt. Motorized chute rotation, nice. After eating a lot of snow with my snowblower, a cab would be nice.

Glad it was an easy install, is that front window glass?

Nice job, are you going to install lights on the cab?

Nice job Tom. Now figure out a way to get some of the engine heat in there and make it comfy. By the way, when are we going to get some snow so we can get out there and use our snow moving machines?

Thanks Richard, I have some ideas for heat but probably not until next year. Just want to finish getting it sealed up so I can use it if needed. I really do not care if I do not have to use it.

I have a LED light bar ordered from Amazon that one of the members on here posted a link to.

Thanks, Yes it went better than I thought. I really thought I would have to modify it to fit the super. Front glass is lexon as stated in the allied attachments book.

Thanks, I have used an IH windbreaker for some years and it really helps but a cab will be so much nicer.

I've thought about blocking the hood up slightly to let some of the heat in. I'm thinking an inch over the firewall would make a difference.

My setup allows for "T" shirt temps in *20 outside temps.:beerchug:
But you do have to have a tight exhaust system or it will contaminate the heated air input.

I have been thinking of something along the lines of this. George, do you have a blower fan in the box in front of the grille? I have a spare set of side covers I was thinking of making the air duct into them.
Thanks for posting:beerchug:

No extra fan,
The flywheel fan produces a large flow of air over the heads as well as the hot muffler, so I just built a plenum to harvest it.
The plenum just slips over the factory air box that normally exhausts through the grill, and is held on with 2 springs just like the grill normally does.
The plenum has a hole for the exhaust pipe to protrude through.
Plenum removes as easily as the grill does normally.
The duct to the cab is 4" aluminum flex dryer vent.
I thought I might need an additional duct into the cab on the other side, but one seems adequate so far.
There is some heated air loss out the bottom of the factory air box where the V belt drives the thrower, and I'm sure I could slow that with some sheet metal, but at present I don't think I need it, and it leaves an exit for the heated air that does not go to the cab to adequately cool the engine.
It ain't all factory or purdy, but it is a working tool, not a trailer queen.

Very nice setup Tom... awesome fab work as usual!!:beerchug:

George I really like yours too!!:beerchug: Great thinking going into that heater!

We don't get to play with cabs or snowblowers in South Ga.. doesn't get cold enough or snow!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

When I am finished with this project I will have a great setup for moving snow if I need it. If I never use it I figure it is good insurance just having it around. I would really like to use it once to see how I like the cab.

Today I hope to finish this up. I got my filler panels fabbed up and painted yesterday and did some spray bomb touch up painting just to stop the surface rust. I found some rubber floor mat material from a tractor cab I refurbishes so that will go on the foot rest's and I am ordering some black vinyl covered foam to glue on all of the flat interior surfaces to help quiet it down. I polished up the tractor hood and sides and they do not look to bad so it should look pretty good from 20 ft. I might repaint it next year.
Thanks Guys.

Might as well bug hit!!!!!!!
 

You know how it goes. I was sanding on the cab so I could touch up paint some surface rust and one thing lead to another and next thing you know I had the whole cab sanded down. I masked it off and broke out the spray gun and two coats of Iron Guard 935 white with hardener later here we are.

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I then decided that since the cab turned out so well for a quickie I might as well paint the hood and side panels also.
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Since I cannot remove the grill without removing the snowblower mule drive I will just mask off the front of the tractor and paint it with the Rust-Oleum spray bomb. Hope the cab foam I ordered comes in soon so I can get this project that I han no plans of doing finished.:bash2:

Looks great, you have to watch out for those "while I have this far". :biggrin2:

Very abbreviated "while I have it this far". ( from about 1979 )
My friend Tony GF wrinkled the front end of his red 66 Malibu. It was a stone stock, very anemic 283 4 speed car.
Another friend blew up the engine in a green 67 Chevelle. Tony bought the 67 and the plan was to put the engine and trans from the red car into the green car. :biggrin2:

The red engine's exhaust manifolds looked small so pulled the intake. They were small too. Might as well look at the heads. Smallest valves I've ever seen on a small block.

long story short, he ended up with a high compression ( actual 12.5-1 comp) 350 small block putting out over 425 hp , cam was rated for 3800 -6800 rpm, 2.02 angle plug heads, ported ,polished, CC'd that would pass everything but a gas station. Had to run Sunoco 260 plus octane booster and got about 3 mpg.

Fred:

Nice job. :beerchug:

Us old guys have to stick together.
Take the thrower off in 2 steps.
Remove the top curved links, then the bottom pin on the mule drive.
As you separate ( slide, no need to lift) the auger housing forward from the mule drive, the drive shaft will slip out of the splined yoke.
(turn the splined washer between them so it will line up and slip out, don't loose the felt washer)
stick a baggy over the male stub so it stays clean and you don't get greasy.
Then you can remove the mule drive.
easy peasy, reinstall opposite.
Do make sure on reinstall, that the drive shaft yokes are aligned properly.
( 2 letter C's back to back) just like any drive shaft on a vehicle.
If you want, take the bottom pin to the grinder or lathe and point it somewhat on one or both ends to make the pin reinstall just that much easier.:beerchug:
Oh, don't forget to put the rotation rod holder in the pocket before you slide the mule onto the tractor.

You were better off painting the whole thing anyway while you had the time.
Rust never sleeps...
Any visibility addition for safety?

I know what you mean about rust never sleeping. I just wasn't planning on getting into it right now. Good thing it has not been snowing. I ordered this LED light bar from Amazon to mount above the windshield.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tom, that is very nice. You can bring that spray gun over and do my 782. lol

Hey guys thanks for the positive comments. I went a little farther with my clean up and touch up on the old girl.You know!! While I am at it I might as well, Paint the front rims and rear wheel weights, Might as well Install a set of 2382 decals I had made when I did the set for my other 1872 super rebuild. I received my vinyl covered foam today so tomorrow I will cover the interior flat surfaces and the fenders to help quiet it down inside. A couple of pictures.

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Wow, looks great. :beerchug:

Tom, that thing looks awesome!! Sometimes it's better just to take a few more hours and do it right! The end result is nothing short of stellar.:beerchug: Amazing what some time, elbow grease, and a few dollars worth of paint can do!

Congrats my friend.. you have a very nice machine!:beerchug:

Thanks guys. I still have to put some floor mats and cab foam in it but if it snows I will be ready. Been busy with a kitchen add on and remodel project so I work on it when I can.

That looks great Fred..! That LED bar will light it up. I have one across my ROPS on the Kubota since the FEL hides the front lights... Night into day... and less drain.

I like it...just need some of that pesky white stuff to play in!

Thanks, Yes the LED bar really lights it up. I also installed some LED headlights we had tried in one of our farm tractors that we plant with. They are more of a flood than a spot light so they did not work out in the tractor but they really light up the front of the cub. With the combination of both sets of lights I should really be able to see if I have to plow in the dark.

That's a sweet looking rig! Nice job!

Very nice machine! :beerchug:

Thanks to all for the positive comments. I have been looking for a cab for quite a few years and when this on came up I decided to pull the trigger. I was not sure I could make it work on the super but as you can see it was a pretty easy adapt. I could lift it off the 1872 and by removing a couple of straps bolt it right on a 782. I moved it from the shop today after installing a one inch foam vinyl covered headliner and some floor mat material on the step pans and it is much quieter than the heat houser ever was. If I get a chance I plan on covering as much as the rest of the cab interior I can. I got a couple of ideas to get some heat in it but that will have to wait until next fall. I need to get the kitchen done first if I want the wife to keep me fed!!!!!!!
Since it is snowing right now maybe I can get an action shot tomorrow.