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Asking to confirm
I found a narrow base cast iron pan on feebay the other day for a much better price than I have seen in a while. Thing is that it came off of a "green" tractor not a yellow one. Was there anything about a Deere narrow base pan that would make it not work for a cub? Have it in mind to go onto a 1200.
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Nobody????
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At least one of the cast iron pans I've used on my Quietlines came off a JD. If it's a deep sump and looks just like the aluminum one it will be fine- I think
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Dart, that's what I was thinking,(and hoping) it does look similar, it does have the half round sump protrusion for the rod dipper like the aluminum sumps that I have now... didn't know if maybe they were different depths or something in that half round portion.….. I know some were flat as well... this one that I found, isn't.
I didn't expect my post to be an extension of the bash-fest that was recently closed, but I have been curious as to whether he would be allowed back, or if he will come back, even if allowed. I was wanting to ask, but didn't want to start another bash fest...so let this be the end of Jon talk on this thread. |
No guarantee it won't leak though.
Last one I bought off the bay was cracked and made a mess of my brand new restored 149 engine bay 1st time out. Examine it very carefully before you install it. under edit: This was a cast iron pan to boot |
Ask the seller for the part number cast in the pan, should be one there.
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Sorry I can't answer your question dodge trucker but if that one doesn't work out try sending member dvogtvpe a PM. He may have the correct pan for your project. :beerchug:
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One can NOT answer the question because the initial information is very limited and vague.
IF........you could get the Kohler "Model & Spec" of that engine, one could look that up and see if it applicable to the Cub Cadet Kohler K301AQS - 47541. Right now, it is all guessing and speculation. :bash2: |
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I tried to ask while the sale was live for this pan, you guys were asleep so I took a chance. USPS tracking says it's now about 70 miles away, so I'll have it in hand tomorrow and I'll post the cast in number. I do have another aluminum IH/CC Kohler pan here so I can compare it to once I get it here |
Pan on my 1650 came off a greene tractor.
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My cast iron 1650 pan also came off a green tractor for $28.00 plus shipping a few years back.:beerchug:
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:Announce:
I have edited this topic and chopped out the side bar off topic postings, to bring it back to the core subject. I am hoping we can stay focused. :Pray: |
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Well I'll just say that this thread doesn't "flow" with what was taken out of it, w/o saying anything about what was deleted.
I have the cast iron pan now. They didn't even clean it up in the least. Lots of sludge left on the inside, and I could almost use a scraper on the outside of it when I took it out of the box that it came in. The only numbers that I can get off of it aren't like what I'm used to seeing on Kohler Stuff. I'd at least expect to see a single letter before this 1st number. But it is 235930. Under that is 5774-A-1. It sure looks right to me except for that ugly green. If I was at my mom's house I could dig out my old microfish and cards and maybe get the answer. But I Don't get up there as much these days. Anyone have any input on these numbers that I found on this pan? |
That number eventually subs up to a 47 199 09... which is listed for quite a few Cub Cadets... seems to fit K241's 301's, 321's and 341's.. so It should work
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ok thanks for the info.
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Well it's gonna work, bad news is that it has to go onto somebody else's tractor. A tractor that I was fixing up for myself, but the guy who owns the property where my storage barn is located begged and pleaded me to sell it to him, as it turns out the original aluminum sump on that engine was cracked.
When I brought it back home to re replace the clutch that he wasted in no time I noticed that the frame and lower engine was soaking wet with oil. I regasketed that original aluminum pan and pulled the breather off to verify it was assembled right (it was) and actually left it hanging by the hoist loop for like 2 weeks might have been 3. Kept a watch on it and kept checking the dipstick and it kept it's fill of oil that whole time didn't leak a drop. I needed the lift for something else so I set the engine down on a wheeled cart and put a 2x4 under the shallow part of the sump so it would sit reasonably level without wanting to tip. With the engine sitting on the pan I noticed that the 2x4 was wet on one side where it stuck out past the engine but not on the other end. Huh. So I hoisted it up again and then I saw the damn crack. When I had gotten this tractor it hadn't been run in years. And I pulled the engine, tore it apart before I ever tried to fire it up because I found the screw for the governor gear laying down in the funk on the frame next to the engine. So it had to be taken apart to check that out. I wound up with a total complete overhaul on the engine before I ever even tried to fire it up for the 1st time. I'm guessing it was cracked when I originally got the machine. |
There will be others, they show up regular, nice of you to help a friend.:beerchug:
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more like "lost my azz" on this machine..... that I was originally fixing up as a "keeper" for myself, and begged and pleaded and talked out of before I had any chance to "debug" anything in between setting the engine back into it and getting talked out of it..... :bash2::Rant:
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