DieselDoctor's 100
 

I got this in a trade in exchange for some body parts for DieselDoctor's project. I'm planning on putting it all back together and restoring it over time. The engine is toast and needs completely rebuilt. I pulled the engine apart and the bore is a disaster, and the piston had a broken ring. I found a runner k241 out of another 100 pretty cheap so I'll plop that on it and it'll be a runner instantly, and I'll probably keep the original k241 around for a boring and rebuild (the right way j-mech) at a later date. I would like to put some fenders on it, because I have a fear of open wheels... maybe because when I was a kid, I was riding four wheeler and I tried going too fast over a bump and it bounced me off to the side and my leg got under the wheel and it ripped me off the seat and ran me over. (All that was hurt was my pride). So, here it is... The beginning... The rear wheels are temporary, they came off a 1641.

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Nice find. I also recently picked up a 100 - you can see pictures and read about it in the thread "Possible 108 Purchase" below.

It wasn’t much of a find. He dropped it off at my house.

See, Now thats what I need, Guys dropping off Cub Cadets at my house.. Wait.. that actually happened once already.. Well I need more of that :biggrin2:

It found YOU. That's even better!

Congrats. Love 100's

Thanks to Steve's inventory of Cyclops plastic and tin, we were able to do a deal that worked well for both of us. A set of nice fenders and a good used nose went on my 1782 project. The little 100 was a "someday" project. I'm glad it went to a good home. It might have been years before I got to it.

Hey, hate to point this out, but there's a green thing in your shop!:bigeyes:

Customer's GT275. Waiting for new ignition module.

Is it that little ignitor that failed?

Nope Beth. This one is a non-points ignition system with the primary ignition trigger built into the magneto coil. JD thinks it's pretty special at $124. The little ignitor cube is used on the points ignition conversion I think.

The 100 has an engine now. I drove out to Somerset PA to pick one up for $60, the engine last ran two years ago and has good compression. I’ll go over it good and change the oil, make sure the carb is clean, and fire it up in the next day or two.

60 bucks! Nice deal if it runs good.. Best of luck with it:beerchug:

I know, pictures or it didn't happen...

"new one"
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"old one"
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This was supposed to be a winter project, but I got a head start on it. Though, it felt like winter yesterday. There was about 2" of snow on the mountain tops going to Somerset yesterday. I guess that counts.

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You're making quick work of that ... $60 is a steal!!

Let us know how it runs once you fire it up (which shouldnt be long at your pace!)

Oooooo looky that, snow!!!
Keeps us posted on your progress.

I found something that’s gonna need some attention... the clutch bracket.

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Yeah Steve, but the clutch bracket should be easy to find, besides who needs a clutch anyway? Gotta take it for a victory lap without the clutch. Victory laps are always fun around the yard once you hear it fire for the first time!!! I like when one of the PO has repainted everything on the cub, because that is often enough to prevent them from rusting out if they are kept outside.

Glad to hear that a great deal was made by two friends and fellow members. Looks like both are happy and excited about what they got in the deal. Let the fun begin!

Cub Cadet 123

$60 good for you! Bet that made the old wiskas puff up! If you can't find a decent clutch bracket Steve, send me your old one. Maybe I can fab one here in the shop. I have a mill, lathe, etc.

Thanks, if I need to I might do that. It’s just the U bracket that mounts to the dash tower. I think I probably can make something to work.

I bolted the engine down and put a battery on it and pulled the switch on the side and pushed the starter button and she cranks. I think these starter generator engines are cool, it sounds like the engine is running but it’s not. I just need to get the carb back on it and it will run for real.

Getting them to idle about the same speed as the cranking speed is fun. Sounds like you'll have it going in no time.

Keep those whiskas out of the gennie belt fo sho!

Ready to start. But since I have only a straight pipe and the kids are in bed, it’s be best to wait.

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I'm afraid I would have waken kids!:biggrin2: That close I woulda at least had to hear a pop!!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Yeah, I so wanted to... but my two year old would have wanted to come see it and not gone back to sleep, and then my wife would :bash: Happy Wife, Happy Life...

I found the clutch bracket new OEM part on FleaBay for $20, worth it to me to just pop that in rather than try to make something. The gas tank is not the right one for this tractor, it's the bigger one, and it doesn't sit in the tank mount properly, so I found a good used one and some straps on FleaBay from a K301 to put on it so I can still use this tank. It's in really good shape so I don't want to swap the tank, I'd rather swap the mount. There is plenty of room in there for it.

Now for probably a dumb question... but now is the time to ask.

This tractor does not have the clutch spring clips that go on the three pins on the clutch plate, are they necessary? The only reason I know they are missing is because I worked on a 73 that had them. I'm not quite sure what they're for anyway... To keep the clutch disks in place?

Those are anti rattle springs and they aren't needed, I've never had a Cub that had them.

I like to use them to keep the clutch holes from getting more egg shaped.

I think the hood cross brace will hit the larger tank??

Oooooh I didn't think of that... I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

My 126 fools me all the time like that lol.. When I have the throttle all the way down and crank.. I stop cranking for a sec and its running lol :biggrin2:

Looking good Steve! I'm pretty sure that little 100 is very happy to be at your house now instead of mine. Here, it was sitting outside behind my shop and next to the scrap pile. It might have been scared that was were it was headed.

It’s a runner! But not before I discovered there were some electrical issues, I downloaded the schematic (which is about as simple as it gets) and fixed it right up. I like the push button start, I’ll never be out in the yard and say “crap, where’s my key”. The engine sounds great.

Good eye Lew, the cross brace does hit. So I’ll just buzz it out and that’s that. It looks like it’s hanging by a rusted tack weld anyway.

You don't have to have them... but I learned along time ago it cuts down on the wear and it sure does cut down on the clatter while idling or having your foot on the clutch.. :biggrin2:
They are cheap and easy. I usually keep a set or two.. they stay on and work better if you slide them over the pins before you slide it all into the disc.. if you put them on the outside they tend to come off

I took it for a spin today. Yeah, I can hear the clattering from the clutch. I’ll probably put springs on. The creeper won’t stay engaged in hi. It pops into neutral on a load. Lo range does fine.

Sounds like your shifter poppet is bad, I take those creepers out, as they cause more issues when they are in the tractor.
Once I get them apart, my man Jeff in PA makes nice parts to fix them.

I make poppets plus can repair egg shaped holes too

Lew, are you suggesting to remove it all together? I assume that's possible... or I could rebuild it. I don't really need it. In low range it really does creep... I don't know that I'll ever need that... I will find out if I really do after it's gone. :biggrin2:

After unbolting it, all you need is a full length driveshaft. If you are going to use a tiller, keep it on.

I'll have to take a closer look at it when I get the tunnel cover off. I have a replacement (Stan sent to me) to put on because someone chopped the one up that's on it, I guess to get at the drive line without having to remove the dash tower? If it's not a big deal to fix I might just fix it, if it is, I'll just scrap it and get a longer shaft. I don't have any plans of using a tiller on it.

I removed the first section of tunnel cover which is cut at the edge of the dash tower and in front of the gear shift, and I see right there is the part you're talking about. It's flopping loose on the shaft, the pin looks good and tight, the poppet is loose on the shaft and not holding the lever in place. I didn't realize that is just basically a spring to hold it in position.

Is the washer and roll pin still on the poppet side, or is the little poppet nubby thingy that is worn or missing.?

I’ll snap a picture of it when I get a chance.