|
Brackets, carb question, and general pics of my "O"
3 Attachment(s)
Posting some pics. Looks like the wire to connect the carb to the control unit.
Also anyone know what the brackets under the tractor are for? Mower deck? And more brackets on the front... no clue what these are for. Rear battery holder pic because it made me laugh. |
2 Attachment(s)
More pictures
|
3 Attachment(s)
Even more pictures
|
Not sure what you mean about the "wire to the control unit".... Unless you are stating the throttle control rod to the governor arm is missing. It in fact is....
The brackets behind the front axle on the frame are for a mower deck. The ones on the side of the grille housing are whats left of the steel mount for a rubber Grote work light someone installed, and I guess ripped off. There were lights on it.... This thing is pretty rough.....:bigeyes: But, we've seen worse. |
Quote:
I will remove the mounts as I dont have a cutting deck and dont plan on using old light mounts for anything. I ordered a carb rebuild kit (why not...) and a spark plug and Brillman wire for it. Any tips on getting the new cable the correct length between the governor arm and the throttle? Is is safe to use some small stainless braided cable I have laying around the workshop? |
Quote:
|
1 Attachment(s)
jaykhjr,
This is what you are looking for (circled in dark blue). These are not generic across all kohlers, so be sure to get the one for the O (K161). |
Quote:
Thanks again sir! |
Quote:
|
Be sure to do your own homework on your engine model because I don't want to be responsible for you buying the wrong part, but I believe this is the part. you just need to cross check it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Koh...-/231861482813 |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
This is a Carter model N #20... I dont see many available online, and it seems like most of the O's had #26's if I understand the few threads I found correctly. Im posting pics below. Issues I found so far: The Throttle is loose (up and down and side to side) and it looks like the top of the rod holding it in is all boogered up. Adjustment screw and spring are rusted and pretty weak on the top of the carb. I need new gaskets for the fuel bowl and for the carb where it meets the motor. They are both in pretty rough shape. So should I buy a replacement? Does it have to be a #20 or will other stuff fit? |
3 Attachment(s)
More Pictures of carb
|
Look for a carb for a Kohler K161 or K181. Most are not listed as #20. The #26 will not fit the K161 that you have there as the mounting bolts are further apart since the throat diameter is larger. There are tons of K161 and K181 carbs listed on eBay and the sponsors at the top of the page have the carb and gaskets you need.
|
You can get a Chinese clone carb very cheap. Even if you don't like the idea, it will get you closer to up and running and you can worry about repaining you old carb later.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_n...72.m2749.l2658 |
Quote:
Like Stephen said, the #20 is the only size that will fit your engine, but but the Carter is not the only model. Kohler had a carb that looked just like the Carter. I suggest rebuilding what you have. Parts are not hard to get for them. You can get them from CCC, Kohler, or any aftermarket. Ebay has kits. There is a guy I buy a lot of stuff from on ebay. Here is his store. I took you right to the Kohler parts. If you are going to buy on ebay, check with him first. I also buy Prime Line parts from my local O'Reilly's. Prices aren't bad, but they usually have to order the stuff in. I wouldn't worry too much about the springs. They are just there to keep the screw from changing position. As long as they put a little tension on the needle, they are doing they job. If one is broke, or junk. Take a trip to your local hardware store and find a spring similar. Cut it to fit if necessary. If you can't get it fixed, yes, you can buy a new Chinese knock off carb on ebay. They seem to doing fine, as a lot of guys on here have bought them. Don't buy the cheapest one... and when you get it, you might drop the bowl off and check it out. Some guys have reported finding issues inside when they have checked them before install. When looking up parts, look here: https://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/...101&langId=-1# Go down to the bottom and choose "Find Parts By Model". Choose "Garden Tractor", then your model is at the bottom of the next list, and the model is "Cub Cadet". Then choose the sub assembly you want to look at. Part for the O are, especially the engine, ARE NOT hard to find. |
Quote:
Quote:
Thank you guys, I think I may pick up a cheap replacement, get the motor running, then attempt to rebuild the old one before I start to paint. |
My chinesium O carb is doing ok but took a while to get it there. Had to drill out hole that accepts governor linkage rod to accept it as well as oil bath to carb mount holes not sae they are metric. Needed to adjust float as it was peeing out when shut off and the gas swelled up the bowl gasket/oring instantly and it wouldn’t fit again. I would rebuild what you have but that’s not the popular opinion anymore.
|
Here's the site for Cub Cadet "O".
It's my go to. It'll start out on the battery, when you open it. Just go to "Assembly", and you'll see all the parts. https://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/A...0-A/0118500006 |
Quote:
Quote:
Thank you Both, I got a little further last night. Snapped one of the rusty bolts holding the hood on. the other came off fine. Going to take the grill and grill support off tonight. This might be a dumb question, but I cant find it on the parts diagram for the electrical system... what is the small button on the left side of the motor? Its below and in front of the carb. I took the housing for it off, but I don't know what it is supposed to do. Any tips for taking the exhaust pipe off? Trying to budge it I lift the tractor off the ground and it still doesn't turn. soaked it in blaster for the past 2 nights. I got the lock nut off but no dice on the pipe itself. I appreciate everyone's help. I'm learning a ton as I go! |
Quote:
If you took the "housing" off, it should have been obvious if you know what the part under the housing is. The button is a kill button. The "housing" is the point cover, and the ignition points are what is under it. When you push in on the button, it grounds out the ignition and kills the engine. It's just a secondary ignition kill. Not all engines had it. Quote:
Take a propane torch and heat up the engine block all around the pipe. (Leave the engine in the tractor, as it makes for a great way to hold it.) Once the engine is warm, use a really big pipe wrench, or use a cheater pipe on the handle. Turn that thing until you almost flip the tractor over. Quick pulls are better than constant pressure when staring. In other words, put the wrench on and get it to where you can jerk on it, or low so you can stomp on it with your foot. I also suggest using Kroil instead of PB blaster. I would also remove the head, and if the engine will rotate, open the exhaust valve and put Kroil down the valve so it can get to the threads on the pipe. Or remove the exhaust valve. Put Kroil in when heating, but try not to breath the vapor. Heat, and beat.... and it still may fight you, but usually they start to move and come out. |
X3 on rebuilding it.
Take it off, then clean it good. Then clean it again. Order a rebuild kit and take your time. Should be easy peasy. |
Quote:
You are right, I do not... Thats why I bought the tractor in the first place, figured it would be a good place to learn rather than my daily driver or the Porsches I have in the garage. They are probably just a little more complicated than this thing. even the '87 has 1000 parts that I don't know what they do. I really appreciate all the help. I noticed last night someone converted it to a different choke, I'm going to pick up an original choke cable and convert it back. Not sure if the choke cable connects to the choke adjustment lever on the carb directly or if i need another piece for that end. Still looking into it. Thanks for the tip on the pipe. Im going to attempt that tonight if I have time. I have a couple cans of kroil, ill switch to that. I also dug out the 5 gallon parts cleaner. need to start cleaning things as I take them off. Thanks again! |
Quote:
|
There's really nothing on an O that is unobtanium. Another fact to remember is they're not very fussy. They can and DO run well and do good work while things are far less than perfect.
The Chinesium carbs work pretty well. Your carb is quite rebuildable. A small can of carb dunk and some time and I'll work fine. They're easy to rebuild and adjustment is not fussy. Mine is one of the more ratty O's that Jon refers to. Its rusty and ugly, burns oil and ALWAYS starts , stops and shifts. It's good to remember that while oil changes, lube and maintenance are good for all machinery, these are NOT fussy machines to get and keep running. Jump in there and learn and have fun. Rebuild kits are on ebay for about $6 plus change (free ship). If I have time, I can measure/trace that little bellcrank that's on the O's . It's just a piece of small metal rod with a particular shape connecting the throttle to the governor mechanism. If you get close, it'll run fine. Maybe if I lay one out on a grid you can replicate it, should you not be able to find one. |
Quote:
Don't, unless there's something seriously wrong with it. If it's intact, there's not much to gain from muscling it out. On the other hand, it's possible you could damage it, or pull the threads out of the block, etc. THEN you'll have a problem. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". is a maxim that's worth internalizing :-) |
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
Quote:
Ok update... got the exhaust off. Heat and a couple snacks and it came off. Also took the grille and grille frame off. Same with the generator and top tins/gas can holder. 2 questions came up. One... front pulley... do I need a puller to get this thing off? Best way to go about it? Two... carb... the issue is the the brass throttle rod that holds the circular plate is not connected to the control paddle that connects to the governor. It spins semi-freely... so... do I fix that with solder or? Pics to help explain myself coming below. Thanks! |
Quote:
Quote:
I wouldn't worry too much about pulling the threads in the block. If you look John, the exhaust and muffler is all wrong, and hitting the grille shell. He needs to take it off, and at the very least, put a street 45 on it and get it back away from the grille. |
3 Attachment(s)
More pictures of progress and another question...
The white "bar" near the right side of the coil (maybe that's the right name?) Connects to the choke switch someone put on this thing... and the other thing on the left I'm not sure what it is. Are these original to my O or are they additions I can do away with? Thanks again guys. I'd be lost without this forum |
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
Quote:
You sure the choke is electric? That doesn't sound right..... That "white bar" is a resistor, and looks to me like it is wired to the coil. No, it is not original either way, and can be removed. BUT, if the coil requires a resistor (should say on the coil) then it will also need replaced. Should use an internally resisted coil. Make sure you have the right coil by OHM rating. It DOES matter. If it does have some kind of electric choke, I want to see pics of it..... The other "thing" on the left of the coil is the condenser. Yes, it must stay. It's required. |
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks as always Jonathan, I emailed Jeff, waiting on a reply. I found a guy on facebook who gave me an AWESOME deal on a whole setup, original carb, oil bath, fuel sediment collector, and the mounts. If he can find the original choke cable he is going to include that too. The electric system on this thing is confusing me. I'm not really sure if the switch near the "choke" sign on the column is really a choke or not... Ill take pics tomorrow night and hopefully you guys can help me figure it out. I'm debating taking the electric apart and rewiring it the right way (once I understand the right way)... I printed off the 4 different manuals I found online today (users manual, engine, chassis, and rear fenders) Took the seat and mount off just now. soaked the basket bolts for tomorrow. J-mech,,, I know you said if the cylinder doesnt need bored, the engine doesnt need rebuilt... would I be wrong, while I have it torn down, to redo all the seals and reinstall the existing piston/rod? Also, A local auction has a QA-42 snow thrower.... i dont have a PTO, but if anyone sees this is the next 2.5 weeks, and wants it, let me know, ill give you the info to bid, and if you win, ill pick it up for you and store it until you can make it out here or arrange freight. (same auction where I picked this tractor up for 50 bucks) Thanks all! |
Quote:
The sediment bowl gasket will dry out, and the screen rots. Not uncommon for the aluminum base to corrode and even with a new gasket it will leak. The fuel shut off seal will also dry out and leak. They are still very much available new, and don't cost much. Take my word, you want a new one. Several companies make them, not hard to find at all. Same with the choke cable. It's just a regular old choke cable available at any any parts store. Nothing special at all. You buy them, install them and cut them to length. Easy peezy. Don't use an old nasty rusty choke cable. Quote:
Don't bother "understanding" the wiring. Member MLamar makes new wiring harnesses and they are very affordable. Just order a new wiring harness. Don't even bother trying to sort out the old, or figure out what the OP did. Just rip all the wiring off. Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
A PTO can be added to the O if you want one. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
Quote:
Thank you guys. I havent started on the electrical system yet. I took the base of the seat off and loosened the control/steering column bolts from the chassis. The steering wheel has a ton of play. I already bought a new grommet so the shaft should stabilize a little, but the steering "rod" wiggles in the shaft. Not sure if something is worn or missing... any tips? Thanks guys! |
On the column: are you able to weld? Do you know someone who can? Do you have a local welding shop?
|
Quote:
I can do some basic welding, anything complicated i have couple friends who are much more skilled than me. Why? |
Good. Take the column out. Get out your chassis book, and completely disassemble the column. Search on here for threads on "steering column rebuild". There is a cam follower in there that gets worn out. You can build it back up with weld, and grind/machine it back to spec. There is upgrades you can do, and the bearings and such are still available. If it happens to be beyond repair, I'm sure you can find another one.
|
Quote:
Jmech, did you say I should have a different one? Thanks! |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:22 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.