Ross steering box
 

Ok so I have a quick question for you guys. Are they’re any real differences between steering box’s in a 1100 and a 106? The steering in my 106 is horrible and I can feel it grinding, but the steering wheel will not come off. Being that I need to have this problem resolved tomorrow, I’m thinking I could just cut off the steering wheel and drop the box then install the one from the 1100 and be good to go. Any and all help is appreciated as always!

Are you trying to remove steering wheel without a puller?? Without the correct tools things like this can be quite difficult, But cutting one would be a very very last resort after buying a puller, making a puller etc.

Search parts books and it will tell you what parts will interchange, possible most of the items. Search the forum and you will find different pullers guys have used/made for pulling the steering wheels.

If you are noticing "grinding" I imagine you have serious issues, as in a busted bearing. Hopefully the worm gear doesn't need "attention". If you need to fix it fast I hope you already have parts or have a Cadet dealer near that stocks them. I think some of the older Deere's used the same "wear" items, but don't hold me too that.

Steering wheel removal

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42659

A 1100 and a 106 have different length steering columns, so the 1100 steering gear will stick out of the dash more.

IIWII

I searched for methods other members have used and tried strapping a puller to the steering wheel but the screw went sideways and messed up the threads pretty bad. I have 0 wood working tools so I haven’t tried the other methods and I haven’t had time or the material to fab anything from steel

But will it bolt right up where the mount is on the 106? It doesn’t have to be pretty, just has to work lol

Now a days, You can rent or even borrow for free some tools. Advance auto I think lets you borrow."with a deposit" The puller is not real expensive from harbor freight.

Yes It will bolt right up.

I have a question for the OP.. How do you intend to get the wheel off the 1100?

I will try the puller first if my local autozone has it in the store, but if it don’t work..... but if it does come off with the puller I’m still left with damaged threads that I doubt could be repaired with a die

Just hoping it won’t be this stubborn, iv taken steering wheels off of other cubs without a problem so hopefully I can get lucky again but we will see

If the wheel won’t come off the 1100 then I will just have to deal with the awful steering for the day and hope nothing breaks

Well, Good luck to you. Take your time with it.. Soak it real good with the best penetrating fluid you can get "not WD-40" Soak it over night if need be and be patient with it.. Try to avoid smacking with hammers.. You will get it!

Thanks for the confidence boost! I will spray it with pb blaster right after work and let it soak till the morning

The best penetrant I've found is a 50-50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. Seems to soak in and soften better than commercial products. hth

:IH Trusted Hand::IH Trusted Hand::IH Trusted Hand::IH Trusted Hand:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/i...d%20Hand-C.JPG

Yup.. what he said.. works great.. ATF will shine the hell out of faded red paint also :biggrin2::biggrin2:

Grease it before you do anything.
They have a grease zert on them Ya know.
May just be dry!

Don’t have anything to mix it in that won’t be destroyed by the acetone but I have been wanting to try that mix

It’s full of fresh grease, thanks tho

As a quick fix you could drop the bottom bearing out and clean it up. Also dress up the cam follower pin with a grinder.

Obviously, a complete steering rebuild is the right thing to do, and neither expensive nor difficult once you collect the proper tools.

I found that most killers will mess the threads up. I took to nuts the same size of the shaft put them on and tack welded them together. Then removed them and welded them solid. Then welded a thick plate on top of it. Drilled a demple in that for the puller to follow. Worked great and kept from messing the shaft up. I have found creep by seafoam works great you can see it foaming in and working.

How much grease to add through fitting on the Ross steering box?
 

Quick question for everyone. I own a Cub Cadet 1710 (made in May 1985) with a Ross steering box. Naturally it has a zerk grease fitting. Now with this particular box, how do I know when I've added enough grease through that fitting? Can't exactly tell when to know from the owner's manual that was made for my machine.
I found an earlier version of an 782 series owner's manual from IH (circa 1980)that said to add enough grease through that fitting until it begins to seep out. But "seep out" from where? Where should I be looking?
Thanks

Look for grease to seep out where the cam plate meets the gear housing.

I have the harbor freight steering wheel puller, and a three jaw puller to pull on it but only use two jaws, then I thread the nut to flush with the edge of the threads, maybe just a hair above to avoid damage. Then I have a bolt that fits down inside the hole that has an indent on the top that the puller fits right into so it won't go wonky, and a thick washer under it between the head and the wheel nut. Spray it with some penetrant. Put some tension on it with the puller and let it sit. Sometimes it'll pop off itself, sometimes a little gentle tapping on the top of the puller will get it to pop off. Sometimes when it lets go it sounds like a gunshot. I haven't broken a steering box or damaged threads yet doing this.

Thanks Billy-O.
If I'm thinking correctly, the cam plate is what the cam follower is attached to as well as the drag link at the bottom of that plate...Yes? Is the grease actually "seeping-out" of the gearbox between the seal & retainer...I surmise?

Then I see as to why the owner's manual says to make sure to add the grease nice and slow so as to not damage the seal. I was told in the past that the excess grease would just make its way up the steering column and that there would be no clear way for me to tell that it was happening.

My Ross steering box has the serial # S10200 and the tractor serial# is 2050600U747300. Just to throw that info into the mix.