Carrying Cubs to an event
 

I am planning to attend a tractor show later this year. I'd like to take some of my Cubs with me. I have an 18 foot flatbed equipment trailer, rated to carry 10,000 lbs and I have a GMC 2500HD to tow it with.

My question is the best way to secure 6 Cub Cadets for a 5 or 6 hour drive?

I have chains and binders I use for my larger tractors, but that's overkill for the Cubs.

I also have a bunch of nylon strap binders, the 3 inch wide heavy straps. My concern is that vibration over the long trip will abrade the straps and cause them to wear through during the trip. Also, I wonder what is the best way to run the straps through the tractor frames without marring the paint or damaging the straps.

I've moved the Cubs plenty of times, a couple at at time, for 100 miles or so with no problems using the straps but occasionally find a strap worn as a result. I'm running the straps over the foot pads but under the frame from side to side.

I'm contemplating some better hold down method such as a turnbuckle under the tractor, say from the brake rockshaft to the bed of the trailer, essentially bolting the tractor to the trailer bed.

What are you guys using and am I overthinking this? I'd like to put 6 tractors on my trailer, side by side, three down each side of the trailer.

Thoughts?

If you are planning to haul them side by side, no good way to boom them down unless you have "D" rings on the floor. If you have a steel bed trailer, no big deal. If it's a wood bed, make sure to bolt the D rings to the cross member, and not just the wood.

I use at least 3 straps per tractor. Not because it needs 3 straps, but because there is not a good way to attach two without them rubbing something and either rubbing the paint off, or cutting the straps. I put two pulling forward attached to the fender support. (Round bar that the rear of the footrest attaches to. Same bar the "U" bracket for the deck attaches to.) Then the one on the rear through the hitch. If I'm going a long distance, two on the rear. Both attached to the frame, or on a clevis on the drawbar. 4 straps keep the tractor from twisting from bouncing around.

The "professional" lawn guys around here just set the parking brake and "strap" it down by laying the weedeaters on top. :beer2:

I like Jonathans idea. FWIW

On a similar note, I used to haul in a lot of tractors to the dealership when I worked for IH. I was also one of the lucky ones to have to deliver them when done, or when we sold new ones far away. (Three of us had CDL's, and I was the low guy on the totem pole, lol. Plus, I didn't mind doing it. Got me out of the shop.) Anyway, I used to use at least 3 chains and boomers per tractor. One over and through the front axle, and to each side of the trailer, on one over each axle on the rear. So 6 mounting points to the trailer, and 4 on the tractor. (Make sense?) One of the other guys only used two. One over and through the front axle, and one on a clevis on the drawbar. I was friends with him, and one day I told him I thought he should use 3 like I did.... he said, "Nah, I've never had an issue." Well.... that's always true until you do have an issue. He was about 40 miles away in a small town and went to cross some railroad tracks. The trailer we had was a double-drop deck so it was very low to the ground. He hit the tracks at about 20 miles an hour or so and the jacks on the trailer caught the tracks. Stopped him IMMEDIATELY! Rear chain broke, tractor came forward and the weight bracket hit the top deck. The angle of the weights made the whole front of the tractor jump up and the weights came down on the old boards on the top deck shattering the boards, and the weights fell into the deck, so it was caught. Took two wreckers like an hour to get him unstuck from the tracks, and I can't remember how long to get the front of the tractor lifted up and back on it's wheels.

He always used at least 3 chains after that......


I've hauled a lot of equipment over the years. Still have and use my CDL's too. I'm licensed to the hilt, lol. I hate it when I have to renew. Costs a fortune!

:IH Trusted Hand:
That is how I haul mine.

I only haul one cub at a time, but I use 4 straps. One on each corner. I like to use axle straps with the extra sleeve around the outside to help protect against abrasion. I recently upgraded to some ratchet straps that have a built in loop to go around the axle. I got them here:
http://securemycargo.com/atv-2-ratch...ook-8-833-wll/

That many Cub's on a trailer that short doesn't leave a lot of room for straps between tractors, the one time I hauled that many I put the strap through the rear wheels of both tractor and the other strap over the frame just behind the nose. It was a 6hr ride home and the Cub's didn't move at all.

If your trailer has a rub rail or a way to secure 2" straps on each side.
Load 'em crossways and use 2 straps over the axles from the front to the back.
Pad the straps where the touch tractor with small pieces of carpet scraps.
Cut some 4/4's at a 45* angle for chock blocks and screw 'em to the floor in front of the front tires and behind the rear tires. And of course, lock the brakes and drop any implements. Be sure to secure your ramps as well.
Clearance can be an issue using ratchet straps, you will discover this and may have to double wrap the clip end of the ratchet strap through the rub rail in order to have room to operate it when tightening.

6 Cubs on a trailer should work just fine.
I use nothing smaller that 2" transport straps. NOT the colorful 1" finger pinching kind you find at the dollar store, they are worthless.

Around here, you are prone to being stopped by the DOT and checked for proper load securement while pulling a tandem axle trailer behind anything larger than a 150. It seems like U see 'em all the time on the shoulder at 4 way stops being checked whenever I go to Cedar Rapids.

If you ever plan on doing this more than just this time... You can get recessed D rings to install in the floor. If the tractors are loaded side ways install them in
front of and behind the tires. If you go online you will find companies that sell webbed straps that fit over tires. They make all different sizes for motorcycles, cars, quads etc. They have their own ratchet binder built in. This will secure your machines with no worry at all of touching paint. Maybe a little investment and time to set up but you will never scratch a tractor. :beerchug:


Heres a link.. you can actually do this with a strap without buying them made like this

https://www.truckntow.com/tire-harne...caAruxEALw_wcB

Great ideas! I was thinking of loading them crossways, but not sure how to get them sideways. Load from the side? Move the ramps for each tractor. Or lift and rotate them with a floor jack?

I like the D rings in the floor, but it is a wood deck (2x6s) trailer and I'd have to either add steel under the floor to get the D rings where I needed them or work out something else.

I use four chains and binders whenever I move one of my larger tractors but generally only use two large straps when moving a cub a short distance. I usually stop half way and check the straps.

What do you think about E track? Would a couple E track clips underneath each tractor, secured to the frame members and pulled taut be adequate? Thinking running two rows of E track down the length of the trailer bed, centered under each row of cubs.

My concern having them anyway but facing forward, would be the hoods flying open along the way. You'd have to strap them closed, but potentially the straps will raise hell with the paint.:bigthink:

I picked some of these up on clearance at TSC but have yet to use them. Maybe something like this would be easier to use with less straps running side to side.

http://www.ericksonmfg.com/product/a...own-strap-kit/

E-track will work great! Make sure some bolts hit the cross members. for the ones that hit the wood use a good size fender washer on both top and bottom. For real strength I would use bolts on every cross member and then one in between each.

I use steel cables and secure the frames to the side rails of my trailer, along with straps. I have had straps that have frayed on parts of the cub before, so I like the added security of the steel cables. They also wind around easily and padlock securely.

Cub Cadet 123

Ya gotta pad the straps where they contact sharp edges!!

Geesh already!!

I have straps and ratchets that have seen 20+ years of over the road service before I retired that are STILL good to go.
Take care of your stuff and it will take care of you.

One can find the roads littered with the remains of straps, chains, binders, winches and ratchets lost by guys that claim to be truckers. My son works for the DOT and you should see the pile of equipment, parts pieces etc. etc. that they accumulate from trash pick-up along side the roads.

Be safe out there folks. I'd sure hate to see your or anyone's Cub sticking out of the grill or windshield of someone's car/pickup.

Dont think sideways would make them open

You and I must have the same kind of luck! Haha!

I ordered one section of E track and a couple D ring clips to experiment with. I just need to work out the hold down hardware between the Cub frame members and the E Track D Ring clip. A turnbuckle or something like that. I want something easy to attach and remove, without having to deal with a bunch of loose strap ends and something that won't work loose during a road trip.

I carry a roll of duct tape when I haul.
Fold the excess strap neatly over itself and put a quick wrap of tape on it. They'll stay.
Or, once you get it all figured out, you could always cut off the excess strapping. Only leaving a foot or so of excess. But then you will have a bunch of short straps....

Yep!!!


I don't want to say I've never cut a strap because I routed it badly..... because I have. Also had a load shift or a strap vibrate into something is was close to and then get frayed. (Once frayed, they are junk. Throw them away!) But for the most part, I've had my straps for years. I've lost more due to loaning them out..... buddies that don't know how to strap things properly, or just don't ever return them. :bash2:

Going to try two ratcheting load binders under each cub to D rings in an E track placed on the centerline of the cubs. One from the front of the cub frame going backwards and one from the rear going forward. Maybe use the foot pedal support rod going forward and brake or lift rockshaft going backwards.

Will take some pics and post them when I get the stuff to test it out.

Thanks for all the advice.

And yes, I try to be careful with the nylon strap binders, too, but carrying different stuff, the straps sometimes lose the padding and can chafe. I've had the same 10 or 12 straps for 15 years or so, and only have had to scrap one strap due to damage in transit.

Why do you want to hit the frame of the tractor.. straps over the tires wont scratch paint. Wont cut your straps. And tractors wont budge. You don't have to buy expensive new straps. Make a loop with a regular strap and pull it around the tires .

I don't think it will work on a gt. I wouldn't do it either. Strapping to the frame is the safest, most effective and has the least amount of risk.

By going a loop around the tire, what keeps it from rocking? I've seen cars strapped like that, and they roll back and forth. People likely trust just the park lock paw, and not the parking brake, but that's irrelevant. If strapped properly, the car/truck/tractor could be in neutral and stay put on the trailer. No. I wouldn't trust a loop over a tire either.

I have owned and operated my International 4300 wrecker for the last 20 plus years. I never put straps or chains on the chassis of the Corvette or the 69 Camaro. If you pull from the front tires forward and the rear tires in other direction its not going to move. I am not doubting you have a great deal of knowledge Jon, But I dont just refurbish my equipment here.. We also hual most of it ourselves with My double drop trailer, Landoll trailer, and RGN trailer. Many times needing permits for over weight in excess of 120,000 pound loads. I have to deal with DOT all the time and know a thing or 2 about securing loads. You know those 10 car tractor trailers you see going down the highway?? All 10 cars on that truck are strapped by the tires. Just sayin

Yep. I've hauled a lot of equipment too. I've had and used my CDL also for 20 years. Oversized loads and all. A car is far different than a small tractor, both in how it can be sucured, and how much it will move. I've never had a tractor or a car move sideways on a trailer, but if not secured well a small garden tractor will. They are light enough to bounce and move.

Pulled tight from 4 corners in opposite directions, It aint gonna move. The guy was looking for solutions to not scratch paint. My solution is don't touch the paint. Yup. you can use anti scuffs or plastic guards, Ive seen cardboard and duct tape.. I have seen all of those things mark up and scuff paint. 2" straps over the tires can be pulled down with enough force to squash the tires by inches. Ever used a uhaul tow dolly? I dont really like them myself but all they use is a strap web over each tire. Never seen one come loose that was tightened correctly. They make these in different sizes by the way.

I don't know that I have room on the trailer to carry 6 tractors and still have space to use the tire straps as there will be only a few inches between tractors. I would also have to have 24 tire straps to keep 6 tractors secured from 4 points each. And do they make such straps that will fit the small front tires on a Cub?

My idea, for what it's worth, (and you guys have WAY more experience hauling stuff than I do) is to attach to the tractors from underneath, on the round bar cross members (foot step support, lift rockshaft) so that any marks would not be noticeable. With a few chain links, two binders per tractor, I think I might be able to secure them with no worries of straps chafing and without the tractors moving anywhere during a long road trip.

That will work also, if you can hit a non painted point and pull straight down your fine. Honestly. 2 straps on opposing corners would hold the tractors with no problem.. So 6 tractors becomes 12 straps. Do what you feel comfortable with. You gotta drive it. No matter what you do, one thing ive learned, If something gonna loosen up, usually does in the first 50 miles. Stop and check it. Good luck and have a blast at the meet!

Maybe use a axle strap over foot step support/lift rockshaft to a 7 inch long e-track tie-off strap.
https://www.easternmarine.com/media/...1389105_lg.jpg

Then an e-track anchor clip (or another tie-off as pictured) with a conventional hook end ratchet strap from tie-off up and over foot step support/lift rockshaft and back to the tie-off.

Or other combos of your choice.
But you only need one binder/ratchet per cub.

Both my trailers have e-track front to rear down both sides and a third section down the middle. I use the middle section to secure a short safety chain from the drawbar to the e-track clip using quick links on both ends. I also use ratchet straps that have e-track clips on both ends. Never have to worry about the hooks falling out of the d-rings while trying to tie down again.

I've been working on the trailer the past couple weeks. I've run two lengths of e-track down the length of the trailer about 18 inches in from each side so that they will basically be under tractors loaded side by side. I got some smaller ratchet straps and e track clips.

The e track is through bolted to the steel frame members under the wood deck, every two feet, and lagged to the wood deck every 8 inches in between the through bolts. The plan is to use the clips in the e track adjacent to the through bolts so the tension is transmitted nearly directly to the frame members rather than to the lag screws and deck lumber.

I'm now working on adding some "sides" to the trailer so that the tractors can't just slide off as I'm loading them. The width is such that the tractors, loaded side by side, leave only about an inch on each side to the trailer edge. If the deck is wet or I misjudge it, I'm afraid a tractor might slide off while loading or unloading. So the 2x6 sides will provide some security for me as I'm moving tractors around on the deck. I cut and welded up the 2x3 inch tubing brackets and bolted them to the frame (rather than welding to the frame) in case I ever need to remove them. Also thinking about fenders...

I've also added a winch to assist with loading. There are times when it's not so safe to ride a tractor up or down the ramps, and my Tandem Cub tends to slide sideways on the ramps due to the weird double axle situation. I still need to mount a battery box next to the winch and set it up for remote operation, but I have used it to load the Tandem without any problems.

I plan to add some additional tie down points with folding D-rings along both sides of the trailer, welding them into place. I may add some down the centerline as well.

This trailer is nearly 20 years old. I bought it new in 2000 or 2001. I just put new tires on it. It probably has less than 3000 miles on it as I've only used it locally but the original 18 year old tires were dry rotting.

I need to go around and clean all the light lenses and replace one cracked lens. Otherwise, all the lights (and brakes) work fine.

I've been moving the trailer around with the front hitch on my Ford. If you've never moved a trailer with a front hitch, you'll love the control it gives you. You can thread a needle with the trailer with the control you have this way.

Requisite pics...