Kohler Powered
 

If it's Kohler, it's got to be good, right? :ThumbsUp:

Picked up this little welder this week. Bought it from the original owner. He bought it new in '82.

Electric start fires it right off. Idles nice and runs smooth at 3700 rpm. As a bonus it came with the original spark plug and air filter. Still installed! :beerchug:

Looks like the head gasket's still doing it's job too!

...and more!

Voltage at 3700 rpm.

No load.... and load. Not sure if this is OK. Any thoughts?:bigthink:

Must be running just a touch slow if your only getting 58 HZ. :bigthink:

That's what I was thinking Sam. Figured I'd play with the rpm and see how that changed things.

Thanks for the input.

Needs to be 63 no load
Load 59-60.
A guy who works for me used to be a gen set guy.

Thanks Terry, I appreciate the information. The vibratach is not super a accurate so I can probably crank up the rpm and still be in the proper range. The killawatt meter is probably not the most accurate either...:bigthink:

I believe one of those would be pretty handy to have around! Nice find!

:IH Trusted Hand:






Randy

Thanks Randy. I've been looking for one of these for a while. Most that come along have the Briggs and I was really hoping for the Kohler so when this one came up I jumped on it. Probably paid to much for it but I ain't to good at beating old men down.

Made a minor adjustment to the engine speed;

3750 rpm

123.8 volts

61 hz no load

60.5 hz 'mild' load

:ThumbsUp:

Those Lincoln Weldanpower are nice machines. I have a Weldanpower 220 G7 with a 16hp Briggs opposed twin that I have had for about 20yrs now. The only problem I have ever had with mine was I had to replace a 4 way bridging rectifier. Lincoln is really fond of their parts. They quoted me $32 for a rectifier. I did a little research and found them at Newark electronics for $3 apiece. Ordered 2 of them and with shipping was still less than half what Lincoln wanted.
I'm not a real fan of the Briggs motors but it hasn't let me down yet. Enjoy the new to you welder.:beerchug:

cubs-n-bxrs, I saw a couple of those 16 hp Briggs come up and would have been happy with one but they were just too big for my needs. I was planning on mounting mine on my truck side box but at 368 lbs I'm afraid that it might still be to heavy.

Is yours 100% duty cycle too?:bigthink:

twoton yes mine is 100% duty cycle as well. I've prolly been thru 100lbs of rod since I've owned it. Mine has a 7000 watt generator built in as well. I can pretty much run my whole house off of it if need be. I paid $750 for mine 20 yrs ago. Worthwhile investment. Mine has a 220v outlet as well.

Nice. :ThumbsUp:

Fuel pump rebuild
 

Looks like I might be rebuilding the fuel pump..:bash2:

I got no experience with these but think I can handle it with help from my boy Taryl,.. :bigthink:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aqZGWRJ66b4

I don't think you can get a rebuild kit anymore for the fuel pump. But you can get a brand new one. I wouldn't convert it to the crankcase pulse pump. I'd get the sense replacement for the original pump. Easier, and they last a lot longer.

:bigthink:

*Stens*
Sorry. I was autocorrected.

Looks like this would be the one;

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee...ducts_id=34555

Fuel tank repairs
 

When I went to look at this welder I noticed that there was some rust in the fuel tank. I also saw some signs of leaking from the bottom of the tank onto the starter. When I drained the tank there was plenty of crap that came out with the fuel, but lucky for me the screen was still intact. As the shutoff would not turn, I took it apart, cleaned and oiled and reassembled.

Fuel tank repairs
 

First round of cleaning involved multiple rounds of filling the tank about 1/4 full of boiling water with a heaping tablespoon of TSP and a hand full of 3/4" stones from the crusher followed by LOTS of shaking, drain and rinse,..repeat!

Fuel tank repairs
 

Next step;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKKQ2U4...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I have never used that stuff before. I have always been curious how well it works. I assumed that and coating at some point would wear or flake eventually. Ford had a huge problem awhile back with Tanks they coated in factory.

If you have good success with this I would love to know. I have a very old tank off a hit/miss I would like to resurrect, been using a different tank on it.

Thanks

cooperino, First tank I did this way was on a motorcycle about 35 years ago. Worked well without problems for the appx.. 7 years I had it. Did 2 more tanks on equipment about 14 years ago. Still working well today.:ThumbsUp:

If the tank is leaking, solder it, if it is not, no problem, nothing to fix.
:beerchug:

:IH Trusted Hand:

ol'George, I always appreciate your advice and value your opinion. Thanks for commenting.:ThumbsUp:

It is leaking. Once I got the tank all cleaned up I found several pin holes in the bottom. So,.. my concern is the rust inside the tank. Through the agitation process I feel fairly confident that I have removed all the loose scale but there is still surface rust on the bottom. The KREEM process involves removing the rust with phosphoric acid, rinsing with MEK followed by coating with the sealant.

I could solder the pin holes from the outside, but.. what would you suggest I do about the rust?:bigthink:

You too Jonathan.

p.s. didn't want you to feel left out. :biggrin2:

Thanks for the info. My concern was rust also but I see a few of the home made Electrolysis tanks here that could work well also I suppose. I think I will try the kit you have. I wont be leaving gas in it when not in use.

Moisture in the air, or in the tank from contaminated fuel, will cause rust.
clean fuel in the tank will not rust.
I 'd leave fuel in the tank rather than a dry tank.
And if stored for a year with non usage, drain it and replace with fresh/clean fuel.
Now that is what I'd do, everybody is different and we all have various experiences.
If you chose to use a liner, the most important thing is it has to be clean, clean clean, or it will let moisture under it.
And also if you line it, solder the leaks first so moisture cannot get in there and under the liner from the outside.

I was thinking 'bout that too cooperino. Member smalljob has done some nice work with his and put up a link in one of his threads;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...297#post455297

:beerchug:

Amen to that sir!

I think that's a great idea ol'George. :ThumbsUp: Thanks.

So that's what I did,:ThumbsUp:

Soldered up all the pin holes in the bottom of the tank and then etched, cleaned, dried, and sealed the tank following the instructions in the Kreem kit. I followed the recommendations for "extra protection" and applied a second coat of sealant. As I am not too interested in a major paint job right now, I opted for the quick and dirty rattle can red. Since I had to cut the original straps that held the tank to the brackets, I picked up this 'Breeze, Make a Clamp' kit to make your own hose clamps at my local Ace hardware store. To protect the tank, I installed them over some strips of epdm rubber roofing.

https://www.amazon.com/Breeze-Clamp-...e+make+a+clamp

New Champion H10C spark plug, (gapped to .035");

https://www.amazon.com/Champion-844-...=champion+h10c

And air filter, Prime Line 7-02204-1;

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7-.../dp/B002EPF8II

:beerchug:

That repair looks great! :beerchug:

Thanks Terry, I appreciate that.

The process of etching and sealing the tank actually lasted over about 4 days and I could see how if someone thought this might be a 2 hour project, they might be disappointed by the results.

The first round of etching with the phosphoric acid lasted overnight and failed to remove all the rust in the tank. It did though, open more pin holes in the bottom of the tank. So, after cleaning and soldering more pin holes, I went for another overnight etching treatment, this time with a more concentrated solution of acid. After 3 rounds of this process I felt confident that there was no more rust and that all the holes had been plugged.

Thanks again. :beerchug:

Good job on the repair, I am surprised you could not find a replacement tank though.

IIWII

Thanks Mr darkminion_17, I appreciate that.

You know, I didn't even think of looking for a replacement...:bigthink:

..always been a fix what I got kinda guy. So you're right, iiwii. :beerchug: