Just brought home a 1912
 

My new project. Looks like fun! I’m going to need a couple gallons of degreaser before I can even start working on it. It has a blown seal.

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Congrats on your new super. Now take some of the money you save on that thing and go buy some real straps, I've broken more of those small straps hauling Cub's than I'd care to count.

I’ve never had a problem with straps. They’re good straps for the money, for me anyway.

So, in a nutshell what exactly is a 1912? Looks like a XX72 chassis?:bigthink:
Nice looking machine by the way.

It's a super with a 19hp Onan and dual hydraulics, no power steering like an 1872. It's basically a 982 but yellow and white.

You’re welcome LOL :beerchug:
I’ll admit I’m kinda jealous, thought about calling off work to go get it before I posted the ad here yesterday :biggrin2:, but good luck to you with it!

Very nice, I saw and called 5 min after it was posted, but I did not need it.
What are your plans for it?

Don’t feel bad. I saw it the night before you posted it here.

I got 4 of there 15' straps. Nice heavy straps and not a bad price.http://securemycargo.com/

Congrats on the 1912!:beerchug:

So this is the machine between a 982 and a 2072? Think I read here the very first 2072's still ran Onans--think somebody here has one.

John, the 1912 was built in 1985 & 1986 and is the same as a 982 with turning brakes and front ports standard. The cat 0 hitch and rear pto were a dealer installed option.

They also built a 1914 and it is the same as the 1912 with rear pto and cat 0 hitch standard. Rumor has it, there should be one retiring from the mid west and moving to Georgia next month.:biggrin2:

Steve, I'm glad you got that. That looks like a nice machine.:beerchug:

It definitely is a nice machine, other than the oil slick. Every square inch under the hood is coated in oil. It’s probably the nicest machine I’ve brought home. My wife already said I’m keeping it and selling the 2284. We’ll see about that. I’m always playing musical chairs with tractors. Maybe I’ll keep the 1912 and the 1641 and sell the 2284. Depends on what I get into with the engine leak.

I started cleaning it up this morning. Long way to go but this thing is in great condition under all that grime.

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It does look nice.:beerchug: Too bad they don't have powering steering.:bigthink:

I have a question! I raised my hand...
Is there any oil left in the motor?

That looks good! I saw that posted, I would have fought you for it if I didn't just get a 126 the day before.

Probably not...

I haven’t pulled the engine or anything yet but I’m itching to get to work on it. I took a hard fall yesterday herding chickens in wet grass and somehow landed square on my shoulder. So I’m slowed down by that right now. I downloaded the Onan service manual to read up on the disassembly but the instructions aren’t that clear about the flywheel side crank seal. Not getting it apart yet means the oil leak is just a guess at this point, but I am not clear on how much needs to come apart to get the seal replaced if that’s the problem. I’m considering options including not fixing this engine and repowering it. I’ve heard good and bad things about these Onan engines, including pricey parts. I’d like to keep it original but don’t want a money pit.

I would think replacing the crank seal would be a pretty straight forward procedure. Remove the blower housing and then the flywheel and then replace the seal. I wouldn't repower the tractor over a crank seal.

I meant if it’s a bigger issue than just a seal, like a crack. I’ve never owned or worked on an Onan. Every engine I’ve ever worked on it’s right there and easy to get to but I’ve seen some things that looks like it’s a little more involved than that. I’ll see with mine eyes when I get it out and all the tin and parts out of the way.

The other thing I need to consider is if I want to use the 50C deck I can keep everything as is, but my 551 snow blower will (probably) not work right with the smaller PTO pulley because the blower will run slower. If I put the larger PTO clutch on I should be able to use the blower, but then the 50C becomes a problem, I could then use the GT48 or GT54 deck I have, but I really would those to stay with the other tractors. If the 50C works as well as the 44C I have tested with on my 1641 I will be happy with it. So many tough decisions...
:biggrin2:

I worked on this a little this evening, removed the tins and I am currently stuck getting the PTO clutch off. I got the pulley off, and the plate that is bolted to the engine so everything is free but I can’t seem to get the magneto part off the crankshaft. There’s a sleeve or something on the shaft that won’t allow it to move. I tried tapping it, heating it, putting a wheel puller on and gently pursuading it. Won’t budge. So that’s where I left it at this point.

I’m beginning to think this is more than just a seal issue. The flywheel fan is completely clean of oil. But the top the engine shroud is, the breather assembly, and the rest of the entire engine is soaked. The crank case breather was disconnected from the intake and has a guaze looking thing zip tied over the end and it’s floating free under the intake. This looks to me like a crankcase breather issue and maybe a pushed out seal from that not working properly. Just a guess now.

Steve, there is a reed valve under there that may be an issue. The stainless steel wool stuff is probably what you see. Do you have the manual for the B48G?

I'll see if I have any pics of the pto assembly that may help too.

Oak, I'll take some pictures this evening to add to this. I didn't have my phone handy to snap pictures last night, my wife had it... :BlahBlah:

I have the manual for the B48G that I downloaded here printed out.

I had an issue with a Kohler Series II breather pumping oil right up into the carburetor, this looks like a similar setup. So here is a detailed description of what I have going on. There is a tube off the top of the breather (fat on one end stuffed with what looks like a scouring pad from the grocery store) and the other end is supposed to go into the base of the air filter assembly, but it's just lose under the air filter assembly, and it has the end stuffed with gauze and gauze wrapped over the end with a wire tie around it to hold it all in. I'm no expert but I'm thinking there was some sort of issue there with the crankcase breather that was attempted to be MacGyver'd to keep oil out of the intake. The hole in the bottom of the air filter assembly where this tube goes had a bolt with washers to take up the space and close it off. So, the question is if the crankcase breather is restricted would that cause crankcase pressure to build and blow out a seal assuming everything else is working properly? I know with blowby this probably would certainly be an issue, but if no blowby would that still be an issue? If it's a blowby situation then this engine is toast, I have no plans to rebuild it. The only place I do not see oil is in that scouring pad, it's pretty clean. I haven't even gotten to the seals yet because of the said PTO removal issue, and the engine has not been pulled yet to get the flywheel end apart because I can't lift much right now.

*EDIT*
I am not at home so I can't take a picture, but here is a webfind picture of the PTO setup I have, circled is the piece that won't budge to get the rest of the PTO assembly off.
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Here are the pictures of all I was describing.

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That looks correct except for what's on the end that goes into the bottom of the air cleaner end. Is the tube broken on that end?

The manual on here isn't very helpful. Here is a better one. http://www.mytractorforum.com/images...6_18_20_24.pdf

Thanks oak. Definitely a better manual. I downloaded it. The tube is not broken. It’s just not where it belongs and it was made to be that way.

I did get the PTO clutch off.

It must be up in the air cleaner and whatever is on the end doesn't belong either. It should be like this.
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Gary is a good guy to deal with if you need some parts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/REPLACES-ON...4AAOSwxH1T2Nms

Pretty hard to beat this price if you need some gaskets.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement...taUyV9&vxp=mtr

Yeah, I knew it wasn’t right as soon as I saw it and I see where it goes. I’m just wondering why it was that way, someone did that on purpose. I’m guessing part of the problem is the breather and they did that to work around it.

Also, I didn't take a picture of it, but in the other end (the fatter one on the engine side) has the metal filter material, it looks like the right thing in there, and it's really clean. I am hoping to get the engine degreased and pulled out of the tractor this evening so I can get the rest of the tin off and get in behind the flywheel to see whats up.

Man... what an oily gunk mess. I didn’t have any problem getting the engine pulled, seeing that 5 of the 6 bolts were only finger tight. This is not the first time I’ve found loose bolts there. Is this something that happens or am I just lucky.

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I’m finally in to the flywheel side seal. I’m not completely convinced it’s the seal leaking. I’m thinking it looks more like the timing cover gasket, or the crankcase breather vent. The seal is pretty dry except for the oil soaked grass gunk you see in the pictures. Look at the left side when looking at it from the flywheel end it looks wetter. See photo evidence:

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Last thing, I see in the manual that the condenser is under the points cover, mine is external and attached near the coil. Does this matter?
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Regardless of how the seal looks it would be foolish not to replace it.

I’m planning on it while I’m there. I just am trying to figure out where the leak is from. I don’t want to replace only the seal and still have a leak either.

Possible Solution!
 

I think I have figured it out... I took the crankcase vent apart and found some dirt inside, and the gasket was cracked and brittle. I am pretty sure this dirt blocking the drain hole in the vent is why the PO blocked the tube and removed the vent tube from the intake because it was allowing oil to back up in there and get forced up the vent tube, and where the oil was leaking from. So, I am going to go over both valve covers and replace the gaskets, and replace the seals while I have it apart, and we will see what happens. Also, I noticed I am missing the tube that goes from the fan shroud up to the intake, is that an issue?

Sounds like you're getting the problem solved. I'm pretty sure you need that tube because the fan blows a good bit of air up into the air cleaner and without it the engine will run too rich. There was a guy on another forum that was missing that tube and he couldn't get it to run properly until he installed one.

they are also known to suck air through the split intake manifolds...Replace that gasket and use sealer.... It will surge if you have a leak....

The tube running to the air cleaner is there to supply cool air to the carb, without it the engine will be sucking in hot air from the top of the engine.

$50+ for a new air intake tube... :Shocked: Hopefully I can find a decent used one...

The more I think about it the tube probably isn't a necessity, the Kohler KT and magnum's don't have them.

I may have one....