106 wiring help
 

Took my cub apart for paint, clutch/driveshaft, and a new engine. Lost the key so I had to replace the ignition switch. Got everything wired up per the diagram, went to turn it over and nothing happens. So I put the switch in the on position and used the jumper cable trick on the starter and it turns over fine. Would this be a symptom of a bad starter solenoid? Or even a bad ignition switch out the box?

I recently got a new ignition switch from TSC, and it turned out to be faulty. Sounds like a bad ignition switch that won't let power to the solenoid. Test it with your DMM.

The one I got was also from tsc lol. I will towards that tomorrow, thank you !

Your first six words gives some indication as to where electrical problems could lie. Solenoid needs a good ground, starter needs a good ground, voltage regulator needs a good ground, battery cable needs a good ground. Did you make sure of all that before you start throwing parts at it? In addition, I can't find the correct switch (IH-60736-C2) for sale on TSC.com. All I saw were MTD switches, which ain't gonna start a NF Cub.

Is the clutch pedal safety switch hooked up properly?

Purchase a new key, install the old correct switch and all will be fine.

I would recommend you not stay @ a holiday inn express
Confucius say, man who lose hotel key get no nukey :biggrin2:

Ok I put the old switch back in and cleaned up the ground contacts. Using a screwdriver to turn the switch, still got nothing. Is the diagram I used correct? I have no amp gauge and no safety switch
https://www.google.com/search?q=cub+...ebVKFBowmV3wM:

The diagrams are too small for me to see, but if you have no amp or safety switch, and the wires are there for them, I would think they need jumpered for the power to be available to the components.

There was no wires for an amp gage but there was a wire for the safety switch but it was taped up in the harness connected to nothing on both ends. I did not even know the wire was there until I cut open the harness

ok, since you have a wiring diagram you need to follow it checking that you have power to the key switch, then in the start position , if you have power to the sol. to power the starter.
thinking the 106 is a starter/gen?
is the regulator properly grounded? is the starter properly grounded.
I'm suspicious that your paint has possibly insulated a ground somewhere.
Use your head/common sense during the process, it is something simple, just remember you need power as well as grounds.

Yes it is s/g. The regulator and battery is grounded at the s/g mounting bracket and I'm assuming the s/g is grounded through that as well. If the paint on the frame would that somehow not allow the battery to make a complete circuit? Wiring is not somthing I do very often so I am puzzled by this. I'll have to pick up some new leads for my multi meter so I can check for power. Btw I appreciate the help

Paint will insulate the frame, so if your ground has paint under it, that could be an issue.

What "jumper trick" did you do? Short out the 2 connections at the solenoid? Or jumper power straight from the battery to the S/G? Either way, unless you ran a new ground straight to the starter, you likely have good ground at the battery at least.

My first start would be to see if you have 12v+ at the solenoid when turning the key to start. If you do, then make sure the solenoid is grounded well. If it is, and you still get nothing, I'd say it's the solenoid.

Yes! And those joints are very often rusty or covered with paint. Clean them and try again. It doesn't take much resistance to REALLY drop voltage when you're cranking 100A or so....

I used a separate battery and jumper cables, but the ground to the negative post on the battery and put the power cable to the s/g, so like you said the battery ground is good. The regulator is grounded to the same spot so that is probably good as well. I'm thinking it has to be the starter solenoid. I will test it when I get new leads

If the solenoid is the problem can I use one from tsc or does it have to be a specific one to work?

There are 3 pole solenoids and there are 4 pole solenoids. The 3 pole has two big lugs, one for battery in and one for battery out plus one little pole which is the activation wire from the key switch. The 3 pole uses the body of the solenoid where it bolts to the frame as contact for the activation ground path. The 4 pole operates the same but does not use the solenoid body as a ground path but instead has an additional small pole which would have a wire running from it to ground. Either will work but the Cubs use the 3 pole so go with that. Whatever you find at TSC should work. But first let's get the old one off and test it.

Using a test light I found that one post on the solenoid has power (connected to battery) and the other does not. Checked in all 3 key positions with no change, the small post on the side also had no power

If you are not getting power to the small terminal on the sol. it is not going to activate it, making the starter work.

The small sol terminal receives power when the switch in the start position.
that activates a coil in the sol making contact between the 2 large terminals.

Now see if you have power on the sol wire @ the ign switch, while it is in the start position, if not find out why.
If you do have power at the ign switch to the sol, but not at the sol, find out why not, as you have something preventing it like a break in the wire or a safety switch/or connection that is open.

I don't think there will be power at the switch, the small post on the solenoid goes staeright to the switch because there is no safety switches that I know of

I went out and checked for power at the switch but there is no power to any of the terminals

On your solenoid, you have two heavy cables, one on each of the two big lugs of the solenoid. One heavy cable goes to the positive post of the battery, the other heavy cable goes to the "A" terminal on your starter. You should also have a small red wire that is on one of the big lugs joining up with one of the heavy cables. Check and see which heavy cable it is joining with. It should be with the cable from the battery, otherwise you will not get power to the switch.

Ok so the batt terminal on the switch should have a wire going to the post on the solenoid with the battery cable? From what I understood from the diagram the battery term ok the switch was wired to the batt term on the regulator?

So if the batt term ok the switch goes to the solenoid, what wire would go to the batt term ok the regulator? I think you might have solved the problem

Are you getting power into the switch?

If so, and you aren't getting any power to the solenoid, then it's your switch. (If your solenoid is wired directly to the switch as you say, with no safeties in between.

If you have no power TO the switch, trace back from there.

No power to the switch, wire is ran from the small post on the solenoid to the batt terminal on the switch. No power to the small terminal so no power at the switch

The power going to the switch has to come from the battery, and be connected to the battery terminal of the switch.

When the switch it turned to start, the power then is allowed to flow to the small terminal on the solenoid, that inturn energizes the sol, allowing the high amperage to flow across the large terminals to the starter, making it start.
just so you understand.

Ok I understand that now, so what wire will go on the small terminal of the sol? And what wire would go to the batt term on the regulator?

Blue cub here is the wiring diagram that is for your tractor. Please compare what you have to what needs to be on it with this diagram.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35

Bluecub, if nothing has been all cobbed up you should have two thin wires going to the solenoid. One is most likely orange and black (may look red, but it's orange). That wire should go to the small post on the solenoid. It comes thru the clutch safety switch (which you say you has been removed). The other wire into the safety switch would have been solid orange. To bypass the safety switch the orange and orange/black wires would have to be connected together, by a shorting jumper or stripped and twisted together.

So assuming that is your case, let's go back to the solenoid. There should be another thin red wire attached to one of the big posts on the solenoid, the same one that comes from the battery. Is it that way or not, can you please just answer yes or no?

No, there isn't a second wire

Also there was a wire wrapped up that was joined with another wire, I'm assuming that's for the safety switch? One end goes to the sol and the other would go where?

Sorry, I'm not a wiring guru lol. I assumed the extra wire was just disconnected and didn't go to anything

Bluecub, here is a drawing that depicts only the starting portion of you wiring harness. It cant be drawn any simpler.

The safety switch connects the orange and orange/black wires together when you depress the clutch/brake pedal. If you don't have the switch (or it's bad) those wires must be connected together for your solenoid to operate.

There should be a light gauge red wire from the same lug as the battery cable on the solenoid going to the ammeter. You said you have no meter but you didn't say if the tractor never had one or it it was removed. If it was removed then the red wire from the solenoid, the gray wire to the voltage regulator, and the green wire to the key switch must all be connected together.

Just so you understand the components:
Solenoid - is just a switch that connects the high current cable from the battery to the high current cable to the starter.
Key Switch - when turned to the start position uses low current from the battery to operate the solenoid.
Ammeter - Shows the direction of current flow to/from the battery thus giving you a visual indication of your battery and charging system. It is optional, not necessary.
Safety Switch - Obviously meant to protect those who can't protect themselves.

Good luck!

Got her to turn over but the battery died lol. Thanks for all the help bud I really appreciate it

So what was the issue?

I basically had the solenoid wired wrong. lol.

Good deal. Glad you got it fixed

I'm close to here with my refurbished S/G and new VR.
Timely thread on a 106, thanks.
Kevin