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Help With PTO Installation (Video included)
I'm trying to figure out how to install the PTO on my Cub Cadet 105. I got the clutch rebuilt, so I think I am good there. The issue I am having is how to install it on the crank shaft. I did all this about 10 years ago and did something wrong because the Clutch flew off while running. Luckily no one was hurt because it flew off with a lot of force. Trying to be more careful this time and do it right.
I took a video of the bearing and eccentric locking ring. I read about how they are supposed to lock together and I think I understand it, but either something is wrong with both the ones I have or I'm just not understanding correctly. Any Help would be great: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J88ZNV4wb8c |
Nope.... you don't understand how it works.
The basket pulley needs pushed farther back. The key needs cut off so it isn't sticking out so far, or it needs pushed in farther, or both. The lock collar is an eccentric lock. It doesn't lock onto the bearing until you put it on a shaft. Stick the lock collar on the bearing and spin it again like you did in the video. Watch the holes in the bearing and the collar, you will see them line up, then go out of line while you spin it. When locking the collar, you have to rotate it with a hammer and punch. You rotate the collar in the same direction as the crankshaft rotates. Use the punch in the supplied hole on the collar. Then lock the set screw. Make sure you get the collar and bearing eccentric all the way together before locking it. This is very basic and standard bearing/lock collar stuff. Might not hurt to go download the chassis manual for you tractor in the tech section and read how to remove, rebuild and reinstall the PTO. You should also polish the crank up with some emry cloth and put some antiseize on it. |
How do I know how far back the basket pulley has to go? Should the key be all the way back so it is flush with the pulley? I have the service manual for it, everything I read talks about taking it off vs putting it on though. Since I've never seen one actually working, it's hard to understand the reverse from the instructions about taking it off.
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It has to go back far enough so the SG pulley and the basket pulley line up. At that point it will be really close to the head of the bolt that holds the SG adjusting arm to the block.
The key has nothing to do with the PTO bearing or locking collar. The bearing needs to be flush with the end of the crank when installed. It does not appear in your video that the basket pulley has even been removed recently. Does the SG pulley and the basket pulley line up properly??, with one another? |
I agree the key has nothing to do with the PTO..... But you can't install the bearing and lock collar if the key is sticking out that far. Come on.... you've done this before finsruskw!
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"it", meaning the basket pulley, Jon.
I know the key is too long or too far outboard, you already covered that. |
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My basket is pretty much dead on with the pulley on the starter. I had replaced the basket about 10 or 15 years ago as the one I had was not straight and would throw the belt all the time, so I have had that off. Around that time I also had the bottom end rebuilt and the crankshaft replaced. When it was replaced the key must have been placed incorrectly, or maybe I was supposed to figure out where to place it and didn't. I think if I knock the key back to be flush with the pulley, that will give me enough room to get both the collar and bearing on. I will need to clean up the crank shaft some as well. We used to use this tractor just for plowing snow at my parents. When I went off to college it ended up just sitting in a damp shed for awhile, hence all the rust. I've now bought a house and have the tractor there, which is why I'm trying to get it setup for mowing. Here's a pick of the pulley from the side kind of difficult to tell from it, but it is lined up pretty well: http://i.imgur.com/OBHy4o7l.jpg |
Yeah, looks like it's dead nuts on the money.
Deal with the key and you should be good to go. |
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In my opinion, the most important step to follow as you put the clutch assembly back on the crankshaft is to make sure that when you lock the bearing down it is flush with the end of the crankshaft. The reason for that is: A. If you don't have the bearing on far enough, you may not get it locked down securely. Or (more importantly) B. If you lock it down too far back the moveable parts of the clutch will not have room to operate and you will destroy the clutch.
Look inside your clutch pulley and you will see large snap ring (marked "B" on the drawing below). When you slide the pulley on the bearing that snap ring is the stopper as to how far the pulley will go on the bearing. If the bearing is too far back on the crankshaft the orange button in the center will not have room to move. Also on the drawing marked "A" are the Allen screws. You should have two sets of three and note that one set is tapered. See on the drawing that the tapered ones go in the hole first and the tapered tip seats just behind the bearing preventing the pulley from coming off. The second set of screws with the flat tips go in behind the tapered ones to jam lock them and preventing them from backing out. |
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:Duh:
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(p.s. I meant crankshaft, not drive shaft):Duh: |
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Here is a picture of my 100 when I was working on it. Agree the key needs to be back.
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