127 - speed control connection rod length
 

OK, I got another question....

What is the length of the speed control connection rod supposed to be?

I purchased one a while back and it's length is - approx 13" end to end counting ball joints.

The one I took off is approx 10 7/8" end to end.

I just want to make sure the one that was on the tractor is the right one, since it's had some stuff done previously, remember my big square plate welded on the speed control on the hydro....

Here's what I'm talking about.... Part #11

I just checked a 127 parts tractor that I have and without taking the joints off the ends its appx 10".

Sounds like the one you picked up is from another tractor....13" is way too long for a 127.

Whats wrong with your original? If you need the correct length rod, pm me...you can have the one from my parted 127 for the cost of shipping.

Hope this helps,

Jeff (teet)

Before I took it out (tonight) it was suggested that the rod may have been bent causing part of my lever "slop" so I went on and got a used one when I was getting some other stuff. It's no big deal, it was only $5, I just mainly needed good joints on the ends, both of them are worn extremely bad. I may hit you up on some other parts for the 127 if you want to sell them.

Ahhh...makes sense. I do have "most" of the tractor, although I have scavenged quite a few parts for my other 127...let me know what your looking for, and I'll see if I have it.

Good luck with yours...you'll be happy when you have it sorted out. My 127 is probably my favorite Cub, although cosmetically its lacking, but its reliable, and a real work horse.

Jeff (teet)

You can get new Heim joints from McMaster-Carr to replace those crappy rod ends.

Already did that after I got my answer tonight, ordered those along with the spiral pins... :)

OK one more question (for now). How tight is the ball joint lock nut supposed to be where it attaches to the shaft friction adjust (#23 in the above pic)? the reason I ask when I removed it the nut had maybe 3 threads from falling off. Are the supposed to be tight or be pretty loose and let the lock nut hold it on.

And also the tightness on the opposite end where it connects to the cam.

Ive seen some threaded on more than others...it depends on how well you have the cam bracket adjustment dialed in. Its also important to start threading both ends at the same time, if one end is started first, it could reduce the number of threads on the other end. I would think if you have it threaded on a few revolutions, snugging up the lock nut will hold it fine. If there seems to be too much lateral play between the joint and rod after threading it on, the joint probably should be replaced. Ive swapped mine over to heim joints.

Jeff (teet)

I don't think I made my question clear, or know exactly what to say...

I'm talking about how tightly put together should the ball joint or heim joint #12, #13 be connected to their corresponding pieces #23, #6.

The old ball joint stub end had the lock nut barely threaded connecting itself to #23. Should there be play between the two, or should the lock nut be fully tightened against the piece? Look at my sorry arrows....

Sorry for the horrible picture, I'm on my parents computer and paint is all the have....

Attachment 4085

Tighten it all the way...you'll have a ton of slop in the system otherwise. Nuts and bolts are supposed to be tight.

well, that's just another factor that was giving me my hydro lever slop.... oh well, the thing needed rebuilt anyway and I'm learning....

Wow...I was way off base with that one...lol

Yeah...what Matt said...crank it down, there should be no play at..

My deciphering skills are getting weak :beer2:

Jeff (teet)

I think a lot of it is not knowing the difference on what to call a doohickey and thingamabob..... At least I can find pictures and say "this!".

On the other end #12 goes into #6, right? I'm starting to think I've had this thing apart too long and there's a couple of reference pics I didn't take....

Yes, you are correct. #12 and #6 are connected.

They should be tightened down so there is NO movement between them and part they are attached to.

well last night my dad came over and welded on my trunion arm. I've got to file it down now. Hopefully today will be the first good day I've had in a while to work on this thing. (The wife is working today). I've got to run to TSC and get some retaining rings and a few odds and ends. I'll try to get some pics up later. I think the svc manual has all the pics I need to get this back together after reading through it this morning.

getting the rear end back together with the frame is not a one person job.... :crap:

I was able to do it, but it wasn't easy.

I've done it a few times. Jack stands and a floor jack come in real handy. I've gotten pretty good at balancing a cast rear end on a floor jack, lol


Jeff (teet)

Mine has the sleeve hitch, so I had to raise the backend real high to clear.

I had a jack under the deck lift but it was too wobbly. So I put two safety jacks one under each floor board mount. That was better, but I ended up breaking a fin off the fan due to hitting the shroud. :(

OK I "think" I've got it all re-coupled. I've still got to go through the cubfaq's on setting neutral and all that good stuff. However, my brake pedal is sticking now. I can't really tell where it's sticking/what it's sticking on. Any suggestions... Here's a few pics, I don't know if they are helpful or not. Oh ya, I got heim joints. :)

Jeff, I'm trying to start a "wish list" too. :)

Looks like your coming along great Gary! Heim joints will be a huge improvement, that can be your brake sticky point as well. The heim joints are pretty stiff till they get worked and tend to hold their position, but a tiny bit of lube on the joint "ball" shouldn't hurt.

I usually use the jack stands under the floor board/fender supports then guide the tranny under with the floor jack...its a balancing act, but has always worked well for me. Ive also supported the rear end with jack stands, and walked the tractor back onto it...but it seemed easier the other way around.

Let me know what you come up with on your little "list", and I'll see what I have :beerchug:

Jeff (teet)

woo hoo!!! I managed to get the tractor back together and appears to be working. I did the neutral adjust according to cubfaq and it looks like it's not falling into reverse as before. I can't really tell since I don't have the fenders, dash, steering wheel.... back on yet. But the hydro lever is staying put. Maybe now I can get onto trying to get this thing painted...