Spindle Assembly - ( 759-3665 ) - Rebuild for 48" Deck
 

Working on an overhaul of the 48" deck that came with my 2186-48.

I got the blades and top jam nut (1-1/8") off all three spindles.

My spindle pulleys have hex nuts (1-1/4") welded to them and a Woodruff Key, #91 - 1/4 x 3/4.

I can't seem to figure out how to remove the pulley so I can pull the spindle shaft and disassemble the unit for an overhaul.

Pulley is quite rusted to the shaft, but I have soaked the joint overnight with PB.

How do I get the pulley off the shaft, or is there a way to pull the shaft and pulley out of the housing without damaging anything too badly?

All I want to do is wire wheel the pulley and paint it. Replace the bearings and seals and repack with grease. Should I be going about this a different way?

Service manual wasn't much help.

Drive the spindle shaft up from the bottom. Then you can likely press the shaft out of the pulley.

The shaft should come out of the housing without removing the pulley. You will most likely need a press the get the pulley off the shaft. You could still clean up the pulley without damaging the shaft if you are careful.

I replaced the bearings in a 317 GT deck a few years ago and did not remove the pulleys from the shaft. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...highlight=deck
See post #12 and #13.
Cannon

Doing more research last night and this AM:

The spindle shaft on this assembly is threaded on both ends. You do not drive this pulley off. You have to remove the Woodruff key, then spin the pulley up the threads and off the shaft. That process requires access to the underside of pulley to drive the key upwards toward the zerk to release the threads to spin. Impossible unless the shaft/pulley assembly is removed from the housing.

I'm trying to drive the shaft out from the underside right now. Soaking all the joints I can with PB to try and help the process. Everything is very seized (as expected). My first try with my 5lb hand sledge and wood block yielded no movement.

I assume by beating the shaft from the housing this will destroy both the cone bearings and their oil seals correct? I want to avoid ruining the races if possible as I suspect my spindles only need a good internal cleaning and new bearings.

Here is what this looks like IRL:
https://i.imgur.com/RsJ3RdX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FaaYHT3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/rxgfd7v.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jGc53IR.jpg

No, that is ENTIRELY not true. Incorrect. The pulley IS NOT threaded. It rides on the shaft and the key holds it in place. I don't know where you ever got that, but it's not threaded on. You DO NOT drive the key out to get it off.



That seems very odd..... I'd hit it harder, or get a piece of brass to put over the end of the spindle, then hit it instead of a wood block.


Shouldn't destroy either of them, but may if the bearing is stuck to the shaft. Only thing it should damage, is the seal. I highly doubt if the spindle is stiff that a good cleaning is all that it needs. It has tapered roller bearings. If they get stiff from rust or water, they're usually done for. Pits the race.

Thanks for the correction.

I'll give it more PB and time, then go at it with the sledge again.

Kroil is much better than PB Blaster. PB probably isn't helping much. Better start beating.

So I had to use my gigantic slip joint pliers (gripping the lower spindle cup) and the cordless impact wrench with a 1-1/4" deep socket on the pulley nut (deep socket a must b/c zerk) to spin the shaft and cut threads into the lower cup to get it to spin off the shaft. Whoops. I tried my 3-arm pulley remover tool and it just bent the cup. All three lower cups are ruined; but I got everything apart and wiped down of old grease.

A couple things I noticed on the cleaning of each spindle.

1) Bearings don't appear to be extremely bad off. Races and machined surfaces are free from gouges or metal burrs.

2) Zerk fittings are shot. All three had malfunctioning retention balls and consequently a clod of dirt blocking the grease shaft.

3) All three lower bearing races (side facing grass) are moving off their seat.
Left side 1/16"
Center 1/8"
Right side (can completely pull it out)
Upper races are solid and don't move at all (except the center which moves 1/16")

I am not a seasoned bearing repair veteran, but my understanding is that usually when races spin in the housing or pull out freely the assembly is shot.
I hope that isn't the case here since all three spindle housings have moveable races.

Is this business as usual with a spindle or are the housings shot?

Have you removed the seals and cones yet? The races are in the center back to back, with a spacer between.

Well, he would have had to in order to know that the races are loose in the housing. :Forgot:


Just because they are free from "gouges or burrs" doesn't mean they aren't worn out. How about pitting? Metal rollout? Discoloration? Rust?


Probably could have remedied that without taking everything apart like you did. But that's normal stuff. Zerks go bad. Especially those cheap ones.


Ok.... listing how much the races move in the housing is irrelevant. That they move AT ALL is relevant. Doesn't matter if they only "wiggle" .020" and you can spin them in the bore with your hand if you try "real hard". If they move AT ALL by hand, then they are loose and need to be tightened up. How loose they are depends on if the housing is shot. You can use a center punch and put dimples in the housing where the bearing race rides/sits. The dimples will push the metal up in spots and hold the race in place. I would also put some red loctite behind the race to help hold it. Actually, I'd probably use sleeve retainer.... but that's me. Red will help. I'd dimple it about every 1/8" at least. So, what, 8 or 10 times? Whatever works. Those sound pretty loose. So, no this is not "business as usual". They should be tight. If you can "rattle" the race in the housing, or the housing metal has a groove in it you can feel with your finger, it's probably shot and needs replaced.

Pics of the bearing races attached.

Only 1 has discoloration. Others have small grooving.

https://i.imgur.com/Rtr5fLo.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jhYbb3y.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/E97qHGl.jpg


I presume the likely reason the races are spinning is b/c not enough lube in the housing, excess heat is generated, bearings/races spin; correct?


Bearing supplier on eBay (who I think is a member here...?) sells his bearings with races.

Time to break out the shop press.
Looks like a Craftsman 32MM socket fits the housing just on the edge of too snug to press the races in.


Here are a couple extra pics of one of the spindle assemblies while I was in disassemble mode.

https://i.imgur.com/omFxa6g.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/An8DhV4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wPbEH3W.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/USCK0r0.jpg

I would think the race didn't fit tight if it's spinning. The amount of heat it would take to get the bearing to stick to the race and make it spin would probably be enough to melt the bearing.

Bearings:
Timiken part #'s:
LM11949 (Bearing)
LM11910 (Race)
----- AKA "Timiken Set 2"
eBay - $5 each - $30 total

Oil seals:
CC P/N: 921-3018A / 721-3018A
eBay - 6 for $20
Mine seem to be in good shape. I got them out with very little warping/indentation to the soft plastic/rubber "sealing" section that sits over the rollers.
Is this an "always always always replace part", or re-use is OK if in good shape?

Sleeve Retainer:
I don't own this compound yet.
Loctite 640, Permatex 64000, or some other
- Which would you recommend?


Looks like I can make this happen for at most $60. Not too bad.


Curious to know if my spindles are worse off than most of this age class?

Replace the bearings and races. They show obvious signs of wear. Always replace seals after removal. They distort when installed, and removed.

Don't get so technical about the retaining compound. Just stop by your local auto parts store and grab a small tube. Red, or something marked as a retaining compound. It's not that big of a deal. I'd use whatever I had handy.

Aluminium spindle housings don't seem to hold races well. Probably not a tight fit to begin with and that's why the race is loose. Cheap stuff. I don't know that they are any better or worse than any other spindles in that age. MTD wants you to spend big bucks on a whole new spindle as an assembly. Put yours together for $60 and be happy.

Edit: I guess I should add, the newer aluminum housing don't seem to hold bearings well. The older ones did seem to hold better. Probably better machined.

Parts ordered. Shipping puts them to me Mon/Tues.

Asked about retainer compound b/c I had never heard of Kroil before.
Always been a PB guy, but bought some Kroil to try it out.
Reviews are top notch for Kroil.

I'm going to centerpunch the housing and use the retainer compound.


Thanks for the replies.

Always good to learn from others. I appreciate it.

Anyone have NAPA part numbers handy for seals, bearings and races? Also, I've been reading some posts stating one should install the seals backwards? I'd be worried about getting grease on the belt or damaging the seal on the bottom.