Leaking Power Steering column
 

Need help. My steering column is leaking on the 1864 out of the top it appears. Wtf do I go from here??

Buy a new klubit kaditt @ a blowes or tracter sloppy.:biggrin2:
or take it apart and feed it Oh rings an seels from piggly wiggley's

I’ll take it off your hands:biggrin2:
I’ll offer $100. That’s 50 more than my usual starting price for haggling :biggrin2:

To get back on topic, I have no idea!

Rebuild it. Not a bad job and cheapest priced kit is available from Messick's. Get the column/box spotlessly clean, mark the orientation of the segments of the box and carefully tear it down. No big secrets or special tooling. Just take note of the placement of all the small parts as you diss-assemble it. I've done two and it's about a one hour job once it's clean and on the bench.

I'm trying to track down a leak from my ps box that just appeared, not sure if it's the same as a 2182 or not, but here was a link to someone replacing the seals on a similar unit that may tell you what your getting into. http://www.mytractorforum.com/12-joh...sion-pics.html

Hey, since it sounds like you've done this before, and I'm going to have to do it on my 2182 soon, is there any reason it would start leaking besides a bad o-ring? Mine started after using it this winter with a plow for the first time, and obviously using the lift cylinder more with the plow then with the mower. Is there anything else that could cause the leak I should look into? Or, just age and blown o-ring, replace all the o-rings and probably be good for another 20 years?

Most likely age related. Using the lift should have no effect on the steering although they are both fed from the hydro pump. It does take a little more hydraulic force to turn the wheels with the weight of the plow, but that isn't usually the cause for a leak. Take note as to exactly where the leak is. Wash column and valve (box at bottom of column) down as clean as possible then run it a little, steering both full right and full left. Look for signs of fresh oil and determine the source. It could be leaking at a line fitting and would be a simple fix without need to remove and rebuild the valve. Note that the fittings screwed in the bottom of the steering valve have o rings on them and the jam nuts must be tight. If the column is leaking oil up under the steering joint as Rescue11's is or between the segments of the valve, then a rebuild is needed.

Yeah, the entire bottom and up the sides is coated with oil, so it's not a fitting. It's coming from somewhere close to the top of the unit where the steering wheel is. I don't see it coming our of the tube, but out of the stack of plates, just really up high towards the top piece.

Sounds like the upper shaft seal. Time for a rebuild.

Spoke with Jmech shortly after posting. Basically had me convinced to rebuild the column, and rebuild it myself before I checked back here. Thank you for the information Diesel Doctor. I purchased the seal kit from Messicks as you suggested.

Wasn't planning on this, yet have been dreading the day this would come. However, I am slowly getting anxious to do the re-build. If it gets screwed up it looks like I already have a buyer:biggrin2:

Keith and I tore the sad clown down and removed the steering orbital. Like others have done I'll probably post pix of the tear down.

Nothing to it. This comes from our tech section.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=50629

Do you have the manual for it? I think this is it.
https://www.parker.com/literature/27...%20service.pdf

If you didn't order yet, but I think you did, this is the kit to get.
21-SK000011 for $55.53
http://www.messicks.com/part/21-sk000011/sealkit

Right on Oak. Your good write up, the kit at a reasonable cost, and the Parker service manual is all you need. That and a "I can do it" attitude. Best part is when you fire it back up, it works, and NO LEAKS!

Rescue11 make sure you change the o rings on the in/out fittings on the bottom of the valve while you have it on the bench. They're a bitch to change while it's in the tractor. Not sure if they were in the kit or not.

:bash2::bash2::bash2::bash2::bash2::bash2::Poof:

Man, I bought the one under the cub cadet part number for literally 50.00 more... :angry: oh well, at Least I'll know better next time.

Thanks for posting those links Oak!


doc, I'm assuming you are referring to the ones within the base of the orbital? Smaller type? Kit appears to have them.

dieseldoc the o-rings on the in/out fittings. Do you mean the actual fittings that connect to the hoses have o-rings? I thought they were flared, at least on the power steering cylinder, but guess I can't remember exactly.

Yes the fittings to connect the lines to the steering valve. The fittings have o rings on the threaded part that screws into the valve body, then you tighten a jam nut to lock the fitting at the angle you want. You will have to disturb a couple to get all the lines off. If the o rings under the jam nut are hard, they may not reseal when you put everything back together. These are a standard size and were in my generic o ring kit. The time to change them out is when the valve is upside down on the work bench.

I'd call them Monday and see if they can change it. That will save you $50 and you can send me a case of beer with the money you saved.:biggrin2:

Good info!:beerchug: I'm about to embark on a P/S conversion on a 782... my donor valve was clean and dry but now I'm wondering if I should go thru it before I install it...:bigthink:

Are they only on the in/out fittings? I replaced my steering cylinder and hoses and I could have sworn they were just flared fittings. But the other fittings may be the swivel 90's that you are talking about and have o-rings?

I don't think mine has any O rings but I don't remember either.

Attachment 91420

If it isn't leaking don't mess with it.
Be warned,
loosening the through bolts will usually disturb the O rings between the plates and cause it to leak, just the nature of the beast.
So when doing your conversion try to design the mounting bracket to use the
4 through-bolts in the position they are in. :beerchug:

not on the outside, as you see those are flair fittings but on the inside of the plate there are 5 O rings, one for each fitting :beerchug:

I'll take that advice George! Thank you!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Diesel Doc was talking about a jam nut but maybe some are different.

Here is the under side of mine with the 5 O rings but I think the flared connections are welded into the cover or I'm I looking at it wrong?
Attachment 91421

Some of the ross units use Seal-Lok / flat face fitting (ORFS) , Deere for one and I think, but not sure later klub kadets do also.

Now while assy/dissy of the unit,
those 6 springs inside,--- (3 small and 3 larger) are called Jesus springs for a reason,---- as you will say "jesus" where did they fly to???
as they fly to unfound places in your shirt,under the bench, on the windshield wiper of your truck, in your hair.
Laugh if you like, but you will understand when it happens.
I have a set on hand just bacause.
FWIW usually the larger JD dealers have them in stock just for that reason.
Carefully disassemble it and be doubly careful on reassy.
3 of them are on top of the other 3.
And it is not unheard of to find someone previously put the sandwich together and a spring slipped and got crushed.
pay special attention to the valve plates as only one way is correct & clocked
And SCRIBE the plates on ther outside of the body before you dissassemble.
it is not difficult, just pay attention and follow the service manual.

Yeah, my valve was different than what Oak has pictured. The bottom plate on mine was female threads and the JIC flare elbows screw into the plate. Some are taller than others for clearance. The lines to the fittings are flare. The fittings to the valve are a machine thread with o ring and jam nut. Wish I still had the tractor, I'd snap a pic. If your's is like the one Oak has pictured you're good to go! :bigthink:

Ol George is right make a nice deep scribe mark down the entire one side of the valve block before pulling the bolts. I took a die grinder and a cut off wheel then made a good mark I could see.

Your valve has O-Ring BOSS fittings instead of the permanent jic male ends. I understand what your driving at.

I had planned to mark one side like some have mentioned.

Oak, what's your brand and address? If they change it I'll make good on your request

Thanks for the tips. I'm thinking of buying the seal kit and some of the "jesus springs" to make sure I'll have everything I need. Unless I find that cheap plastic "bearing" in the tube needs replacing too. Now, the hard part will be removing the box. For my 2182 it says I need to remove the radiator, which I'm not really keen on if I can help it. I'll have to look and see how hard it's going to be with the radiator left in. I think I just need to get to that u-mounting bolt and the bolt holding the steering shaft on.

The way those springs are likely to want to fly out, try to prepare a LARGE clean area to do your rebuild. I've used an old sheet to cover an area when working on a hydraulic valve.
A couple of minutes of preparation will be time well spent!

I have a steering valve that needs repaired.......may get Jon to help with that!

This is a perfectly timed thread. I have a spare steering unit in my garage that leaked like that, and I plan to rebuild it in the spring. :popcorn:

Well, I received my kit this week and attacked the orbital on Saturday. Would have been done in about 45 min, but I got cocky on the last segment going back together and the Jesus Springs ended up setting me back about 40 minutes. So all in all, after torquing the unit together, bout 1.5 hours total.

Decided to try it today after installing the lines last night. To my amazement, large streams of oil did not appear, and the steering wheel actually moved the wheels correctly. I'll check it out better after the whole tractor is pressure washed.

The thing operates really smooth and sounds better. It also doesn't make that strange noise when hitting the end stops.

Good work, Sir!:beerchug:

:bigthink: For everyone who has rebuilt a steering valve. Do you put new springs in or just the orings?

Well done :beerchug::beerchug:

Ya did good junebug.
Always like a "happy ending" :biggrin2:

Good job! What kit did you end up getting? FYI, it helps to have an ice cold beverage while rebuilding those.:biggrin2:

It's not as bad of a job as some think. Except for the springs you sailed right through it. Good work!

Ordered my seal kit....and a new set of springs....just in case!

Thanks Steve! Kit just came with O-rings.

Thank you Sam! :beer2:

Thanks George! Happy ending...photo finish... It all feels good at the end :biggrin2:

Yup, except... I had 3 o rings left over. But my valve ports only used 4 seals, it doesn't have a relief, so that for sure eliminates another. So the only thing left is the one remaining small o-ring... :bigthink:

Thanks Oak, and thank you for the guidance. I actually forgot to call Messicks so I was stuck with the $107.00 kit by the time I got the order confirmation. :bash2: I actually had 6 beers, which is partially why I'm surprised it works :beer2:

Thank you much! And thanks for guidance aswell! Hopefully the next one will go faster, but still not bad considering a new orbital is 600+ :Shocked:

Good job finding the springs and your completion of the repair.
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