1320 Transmission Problems
 

Are 1320s known for transmission problems? It was leaking last summer, and it was not driving right. We had it apart and changed some parts inside. Then I mowed with it the rest of the season without any trouble. I have had it parked since the beginning of December, and now I looked at it, and there is a big puddle under it again. I was thinking about getting a used transmission for it, but I want to know if this was a common problem or not. It was run out of fluid once, but we have used it for about 10 years since then with no trouble.

The LT transmissions weren't as robust, no. But come on, a 1320 is pretty old. Find and fix the leak, fill it back up with fluid and see if it works again.

That is probably what I will do. I do not want to spend a lot of money on it. Once my 149 is painted, this will probably mostly be a spare, but I still want it to be ready when I need it. If it is not a common problem, I may try to find a used trans, but I do not want to buy another one and have the same problem, especially if I could have fixed this one cheaper. Are these known for this?

Known for what? Leaking? Anything with seals and gaskets that contains oil can develop a leak. It's no more common for it to leak than the hydro on your 149.

I did not think about it like that. I think I will try to fix the leak and see how it is afterwards. Thanks for the help.

That's what I would do.

Clean it all off, fill it up with oil and run it. If it doesn't leak running, I guess you'll have to let it sit. Just try to have it really clean to see where it is coming from. Good idea to have it full before trying to find the leak.

Ok, I will try that.

Does anyone know what kind of oil should be used in this?

Hydraulic/transmission oil. IH Hy-Tran, Cub Cadet hydro oil, 30wt non detergent engine oil.....

Probably in the service and owners manual......

Thanks. I would have checked the manual, but I don't have one.

You can download it on cubcadet.com.

Guys, I bought my 1320 new, and have the manuals. I can tell you there is nothing in the owners manual on the transaxle other than adjustments for the neutral position. The transaxle in this tractor is a Sundstrand, and is a two piece unit, consisting of a hydraulic unit bolted to a gearbox. The weak point in my unit was the splined couplers that transmit the torque between the two components. I replaced the couplers once, but since the male splines were worn, put the new couplers on with red Loctite... I knew the trans was not going to live much longer, as the gearbox is permanently sealed, and the only way to check the level of the lubricant is to remove the input shaft and look. Mine was bone dry, and even though I filled it with lube, the input gears were almost gone at that point. And those gears are obsolete...

Weren’t you advising someone the other day on transaxles? On a 1320? Sorry just seemed odd.

My grandpa has the manual somewhere, I just have to find it. If I can't I will download and print it. Thanks.
Yes, but he was asking about other transaxles that are reliable, not the original one.

Last year, we had the trans apart, and changed some stuff inside, and ever since then it moved slowly in reverse. Forward is normal. What would cause this? Could it be a linkage, or something put together wrong inside? At first we thought it was just air in it, but I used it most of last year mowing, and it should have cleared up by now.

I'm familiar with them. But it has been a while since I played with a 1320. Probably 15 years now. They were still pretty common tractor when I worked at IH.

I'll get back to your statement a little later...... your terms are all jacked. I really have no idea which parts you are talking about. "Splined couplers that transmit torque"....... is kind of vague. Every part inside the transmission transmits torque. There are a different splined couplers... so, kind of vague. A parts callout or part number of what went bad would help. Don't be too sure parts are unobtainable.

The service manual is much clearer than the owners manual. I'm not sure that I truly believe you that the info isn't in any of the books..... heard that before many times. Sometimes it's just hidden and you don't see it right away.


Cubcadet.com has changed their website around quite a bit. I had the manuals bookmarked, and was going to go back and post a link for you..... but my bookmark no longer works. I can't find it now. I do have a PDF copy of the service manual if you (or anyone) needs it.


Sounds like bad linkage adjustment.
Could it be something inside? Depends.... did you just disassemble the transmission, or the hydro, or both? It could be internal......

[/QUOTE]Sounds like bad linkage adjustment.
Could it be something inside? Depends.... did you just disassemble the transmission, or the hydro, or both? It could be internal......[/QUOTE]
My dad took it apart, I don't remember what though, I will ask him. If it's internal, could it cause damage using it? Forward is fine, it goes about half as fast as it should in reverse.
How would I check the linkages? Would the service manual have anything about adjusting them?

Here is a link to the service manual, look around page 2-87 for linkage adj.
https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/u...%201720%29.pdf

Thanks for the link!

J-Mech, Let me see if I can make myself more clear. The 1320 transaxle is two separate pieces, a gearbox and a separarate hydro unit. They bolt together. The torque from the engine is input into the gearbox, but is transferred to the hydro unit through a set of three fingered couplers (PN HG44084P). These couplers are splined to the male shafts. There are two shafts that go from the gearbox to the hydro unit, one for motion in, one for motion out. Therefore, it takes four of these splined couplers to make the unit work. They can still be found on EBay. At one time I had the parts list for the gearbox. I searched the web with the part numbers for the two bevel input gears, and came up empty. With regard to what is in the owners manual, I read it cover to cover, and nowhere does it say anything about transaxle maintenance. The gearbox has no filler or dipstick to check the lubricant level. The hydro unit has a plastic cup under the battery, but I found no reference to it in the manual.

Listen.... I'm pretty well versed in hydrostats and transmissions. I see the parts blowout, I skimmed the service manual. I know how it works. Better than you do, I'm sure. What I need to know, it what part you broke, or need. You still haven't made that known. You keep trying to explain to me how it works..... I KNOW HOW IT WORKS.

J-Mech, I appreciate your input, but let’s not get snippy... I have no doubt you know more about the hydrostats than me. I have had ONE apart. And that was two years ago. I do not have the exploded view in front of me, so forgive me if I don’t use the correct terminology. I did give you the part number (HG44-04P) of the parts that broke. These are the splined couplers I referred to. I replaced those, and used the tractor until the two bevel gears in the gearbox lost all their teeth. I am convinced this tractor would still be running today if the sealed, maintenance free gearbox had any lube in it. Regardless, we are beating a dead horse, as I have no intention of rebuilding this hydrostatic.

Doesn't sound to me like the hydrostat is bad. Sounds like an issue in the transmission. So, there would be no need to rebuild your "hydrostatic".

Your part number cannot be correct. You stated you had the Sundstrand hydro. They part number you gave is for a Hydro Gear hydro transmission. Hydro Gear didn't even make hydro's for Cub Cadet in the 1320 era. Plus, they are in direct competition with Sundstrand, so the parts wouldn't be mixed. Plus, that number doesn't even come up in the system. I think the issue is, you don't really know what it is you need. Or at the very least, where to get the right part number.

Go here, and give me the call-out number (not the part number) of the part you have that is failed:
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/AR...0-A/0021500004


I want to point out one more thing.... you keep talking about this "sealed" or "non serviceable" transmission going dry as the cause of the tractors failure. Oil and grease don't just disappear into thin air. They don't evaporate. They leak out. There had to be a leak if it lost all the lube. Had to be. Either that, or it didn't get lube in it the last time it was worked on, or missed it in the factory. If you see a leak, it needs attention. If you missed it, you missed it, but it isn't the transmissions fault.

I would bet a dollar to a donut that he is talking about part #'s 27 (AF-44078) and 54 (AF-44079) respectively. I did some searching and they were obsolete but are now made by and available from Hydro-Gear as HG-44078 and HG 44079, however through Hydro-gear they want you arm, leg, and first born son. I was able to find those two parts elsewhere reasonably but not at the same place. Here are links....
https://discountonlineparts.com/sear...4078&x=19&y=10
http://www.wellingtonimplement.com/b...DRIVE-1550399/

Now if it was me, and I could get the parts reasonably I would rebuild my transmission because then I would know what I've got. On the issue of the case being dry, I can't say for certain but I think it is packed with grease not oil. Therefore you won't see the grease until you open it up. What I have done on several gear transmissions that I repaired was to drill and tap the case in a couple places and install zerk grease fittings. Give it a couple of pumps of grease every now and then, no more problems. My:TwoCents:

J-Mech and Ironman, Thanks for the replies. You are correct the hydro unit works fine. It is the gearbox that is shot. Ironman is spot on regarding the part numbers. I purchased 4 of them from HG 2-3 years ago, and they were an exact replacement for the originals. One of the originals had split in half...
I agree that the grease had to have leaked out. No denying that! However, the leak was so slow, it was never noticeable. Never was there spots under the rear where the tractor got parked. And keep in mind, this tractor was used at least once a week for nearly 30 years. My concerns are that while I can easily see the problems with the input gears, I would bet they are not the only parts that are worn out. Ironman, Iclicked on the link you sent, but cannot find anything but normal maintenance items for the 1320. If you can send me a link to an exploded view of the gearbox, I will be happy to point out the gears that are shot. I have the diagram here somewhere, but cannot put my hands on it. Thanks!

Before I get started, I want to say that another member who I respect very much, PM'd me and gave me some info. This made me dig deeper. I will say that I "know" that Sundstrand is now owned by Danfoss Power Solutions. It appears that Hydro Gear was started as a joint venture between then Sauer/Sundstrand/Danfoss and Agri-Fab. Sundstrand built the hydro, and Agri-Fab made the trans. (Which explains the part number prefixes.) Apparently, HG was formed to assemble the Sundstrand and AF parts together, which led to them forming HG as it's own company. I cannot find any hard evidence to suggest it was anything more than a merger, and not a subsidiary of DPS. So, I am sorry for questioning the HG part numbers, as they are now the distributor of the AF parts. The pump is also part of the HG group. That said, it also explains why the pump carries the same design as the later HG pumps, and not the design of the more rubust Sundstrand units made previously. (U15 pumps)




Ok....... So, I'm not buying it. The part number you (McGrew) gave was HG44-04P (number doesn't exist)... which is very, very close the a "real" part number of HG-44084P, which there are 4 of in the transmission. The two parts ironman suggested are the input GEARS, not "couplers" as you describe. Part numbers HG-44078 and HG 44079, which DO NOT appear to be as close to the part number that (McGrew) listed, and in which case there are only 1 of each in the transmission. Why would you have bought 4 of those gears?? You would have actually bought 2 of each if you bought "4". None of which matches up to the more sensible answer of part HG-44084P, as there are 4 required. That part number is still good from CCC, at a very reasonable cost of $10.50 a piece.


So, Mr McGrew. Look at this blowout, one more time please, and see what it is exactly that you are looking for. Click on the pic for the link to the actual parts book, and let us know please. This is getting a bit frustrating. The choices you and ironman are suggesting are in green. (Callout #27 and #54) The ones I think you are talking about are highlighted in red. (Callout #52.) Which is it?

Attachment 92160

If it is callout #52 (HG-44084p) he'd be lucky.
$10.50 ea.
http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/cubcadet/hg-44084p
Frustrating may be an understatement.

I think that part makes the most sense..... it's close to the part number, and fits the description of what he says failed... a "coupler".

I hope you don't think I was railing you. I thought you did good! I just think he's describing a different part. :beerchug:

OK let me see if I can shed somel light on this subject. First off, what I called the couplers is in fact PN HG-44084P. I bought 4 of them 2-3 years ago. That problem was SOLVED and is no longer is an issue. I made a typo on the part numbers on the couplers. My bad. The reason the tractor is not working NOW is exactly as you suspected. Gears #27 and #54 have no teeth... I searched for AF-44078 and AF-44079 2 years ago, but all my sources said those gears were unavailable.

I think the fact that I had two separate failures a year apart confused the issue. i guess I gave too much info when I mentioned the “couplers” which are no longer an issue. BTW, if they are not couplers, what is the correct terminology?

I think I need to point out I am not the OP on this thread, but seem to have hijacked it... I am the guy who was looking for a suitable replacement for this transaxle, as I have no intentions of rebuilding it. Seeing the condition of gears 27 and 54, I would bet every gear bearing and shaft in my gearbox would need to be replaced. That makes no sense to me. Thanks again for all your help.

Yes.... you have not been very clear at all what parts failed.

The part call-out #54 is indeed a coupler. Call-out's #27 and 54 are in fact gears. No, you have not been clear at all in what you had that was failed.

I know which guy you and the OP are, and this thread is pertinent to both of your problems. They can be together. It's not a "hijack" as the topic is the same.

The gears ironman posted links to are affordable, and even if it needs all new bearings and seals, it's cheaper to rebuild your old one than to buy a new one and modify it to fit. I doubt all the gears are bad, as the others are straight cut. Plus, those input gears are at the very top of the unit, and would be the first to suffer from lack of lube. However, I would have thought that the grinding would have been noticable before they shredded. I still think repairing the old one is your best option.

J-Mech, From my very first post: . Two years ago, the hydro tranny started having problems when the splined couplers between the hydraulic unit and gearbox let go. I replaced the couplers, and we continued using it until the main input bevel gears lost all their teeth.

Ok, I did not give part numbers, but the fact that the couplers were replaced and no longer a problem seems clear. I think somewhere along the way, you and I got off on the wrong foot, and now your posts all seem condescending. I would like to put an end to that, as I have been nothing but cordial. Let me know what i’ve Done to offend you, and I will apologize. I do appreciate your expertise, and may need more help if those two gears are available.

You have done nothing to offend me. I have gotten frustrated with you, however, because we/I are trying to help you repair your tractor, but you were adamant that the parts were no longer available. When asked what parts you needed, you gave non existent part numbers and vague descriptions. We/I now understand you need input gears. That's a very simple answer, and I don't understand why after linking you to the manual it took so long to sort it out. You need not apologize to me, but in the future, please try to answer the question directly. We did, afterall, give you all the information and only needed a part number/call-out number and all you had to do was use the name listed that the parts book used. While previous rear history can be important, I think you gave too much focus to the replacement of the couplers (years ago) and that added to the confusion.

Moving forward: If you decide to try and repair the transmission, please follow advice given. Before ordering any parts, you need to remove, disassemble and inspect all the parts and make a list of what all is needed. Start a thread on the rebuild. (As a rebuild will be involved and a new thread under your name will make it easier to follow. ) If you have any questions about parts, post a picture. Pictures almost always totally eliminate confusion.

Good luck! :beerchug:

My transmission is leaking around this little shaft thing (don't know correct name) as seen in the picture. Does anyone know a part number for the seal. And will I have to take the transmission apart to replace it?

Here's the parts, from Cub Cadet. You should be able to find the numbers you are looking for.:beerchug:

http://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/AR...0-A/0024900010

Thanks for the link.