Snow cab
 

I built my snow cab frame for my 1450 cub cadet. So know I’m trying to figure out the best skin to put on to my 1” square stock. Any suggestions?:bigthink:. Getting 1/4” temper safety glass for front and all lexan around. Just waiting for material to get in so I can finish job. In summer all update lighting .

Admin Note: Fixed Pics

I've used 1, 2, and 3, but never had 4 skin.
Shrink wrap may work also.
You do want to keep it from being too top heavy.

:biggrin2::biggrin2:

The Home depot near me sells sheets of clear and coated plexiglass, in different thicknesses. You can shape it with heat, torch or heat gun, you can sand it and paint it......It's light weight and pretty easy to work with. The frame you built looks great.

Cab looks really tall...... maybe it's just the pic?

I have a Cozy Cab. It looks tall, and I think it is. They could have built it a bit shorter.
Your cab looks much taller than does a Cozy Cab.

Weld metal on the thing and put windows in it. Quit fartin around asking other people how to finish it. 90% of the guys on here can't even weld.

I would put the metal on the outside with pop rivets, unless you really take your time welding you will warp the metal welding it on and it will look like crap. Pop riveting it on will also make it much easier to replace a panel if it gets damaged and you won't have to clean up a bunch of welds before you paint it.

A bit rude Jon and it's pure speculation!:Shame::biggrin2:

This said , I agree with Jon, your cab is too tall and you need to lower the rear center cross section. For covering you can Weld sheet metal or use blind rivets with Cleco fasterner or if you feel "Exotic" like aviation "nerd" you can try the bonded aluminum way. I forgot to mention the hillbillies' way, plywood or street fiberglass sign..:biggrin2:

You already did a great job framing so I have no doubt you figure it out, maybe no one notice the mod you did on your side engine panel but I do and I wonder if you can elaborate why and how you did that. :beerchug:

No it wouldn't. You don't solid weld it. Just stitch weld it on the frame. It won't warp. Not unless he doesn't know how to weld/fabricate.

Also, if that cab moves around as much as my Cozy Cab, the pop rivets would shatter and the metal fall off after a week of use. Better off making panels and bolting them on, or welding them. The Cozy Cab has panels that remove, front and rear, but the metal is wrapped (bent to fit) the cab frame. So, he would need a pretty heavy brake to built that. Welding it all together it's bad. I've thought about welding mine together to make it more solid.



Which part? Saying it's too tall, or the 90% of guys on here can't weld?
There are 12,500 members on here. I've only seen about 10,or 15 that ca weld, or own a welder and use it. Out of them, I'd only choose a few to weld something for me.:biggrin2:

I never under estimate anyone, some may surprise you! There is exception but you already know my broken glass theory :biggrin2:

I think your wright about using bolts instead of rivets, metal screw is another simple option. :beerchug:

Not sure what kind of rivet you use but mine wouldn't break. I've seen people build cab's in the past and put the metal on with plug welds and the end result was all the panels being warped. I'm not saying it couldn't be welded on without warping but welding sheet metal without warping it is an art that alot of heavy handed welders don't have. I know plenty of certified welders that could weld a building together but couldn't weld a patch into sheet metal to save their lives.

Tim.

Rivets carefully install with the right pressure for the material used are almost indestructible, just think about how many "G" a airplane can be submit
without falling apart in flight! But like welding there is the good way and the wrong way to do it.

Ok, well if you put a rivet every 2" like an airplane, it would hold even with cheap rivets, but who wants to drill all those holes! :bigeyes:

I'd use self tapping sheet metal screws before I drilled holes and put rivets in. But, that's my opinion.....

I suggest pre-painted aluminum sheets for your skin.... such as the kind used on race car bodies. The aluminum are available in many different colors Pop rivets are easy... use a good step drill or a sharp twist bit. It'd be real nice in install the plexi-glass, polycarbonate or even tempered glass with some kind of molded H shape rubber if it could be had (I'm sure you can....just got to look around).

Wait a bit Jon and be ready to hit the trigger....Someone may soon suggest "Velcro" and another one will reply with JB weld! LMAO :biggrin2:

You forgot duct tape...... :biggrin2::ROTF1:

G....I was keeping that one for a later post with the tie-rap and the $6 HF tarp. Now you give the punch dam it! :biggrin2:

A few people think it is too tall, did you get your measurement by sitting in the seat? I know that being 6'3" I tend to build things taller than normal....:biggrin2:

I thought about that or canvas, like the old Heat Houser windbreakers for farm tractors use--assuming you can still buy them.:bigthink: Doubt the canvas matl would like getting wet.:biggrin2:

In all seriousness, there are some pretty high tech adhesives nowadays, but they probably cost way more than a bunch of bolts/rivets/spot welds/tack welds.

To the OP, nice looking job so far. Keep us posted on your progress. I'm sure whatever you box it in with will be just fine. Now I think a big ol' LED lightbar across the top and a flashing strobe on the top would be the icing on the cake!:biggrin2:

Being a glass guy, my go to adhesive is Automotive Urethane. Its a structural adhesive and its fairly cheap. You could go with sheet metal on the solid areas and I would use 3/16 to 1/4" lexan on the windows. You could use the urethane and rivets to put the lexan on just like the sheet metal. Use a primerless urethane if you go that way. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.




Randy

If you adhere the windows with urethane, I don't see why they would need to be riveted. Urethane holds the big glass in auto's and even tractors (much more surface area of glass). May need to add a ledge or a lip for it to sit on at least on the bottom. You agree Randy?

ALL cabs on CC look too tall IMO......

I don't disagree there. Even my Cozy Cab is a bit tall. If I built one, it would be shorter. Only advantage I see, is I can make a cab header and install heat and a radio and still have head room. Still want to do that......

True, you don't really need it. But, if you use a few rivets, you can dry fit and get all panels cut, then use the urethane with the rivets to locate and hold till cured. Just a personal preference.

You could even use all lexan and just paint the inside except where you want the windows.




Randy

Or, whether or not you choose to remove the cab during the hot summer months? A good custom cover shop could make sheets of weather grade canvas that snaps on. Then the rout of installing the other half of the snap to the frame,....

I'd add a few more gussets to counter the side to side sway being as how it is so tall. Especially if you go the soft cover route.