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-   -   My Cub 126 and 127 (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50617)

MattC 11-21-2017 09:30 PM

My Cub 126 and 127
 
Hello all,

I've been asking questions regarding my two tractors, so I figured I should just make a thread. Better to make one place for all my questions. :HeadScratch:

Quick backstory:

I purchased my 126 to mow my lawn, plow my driveway, and use for tractor parades and local pulling. We have a few events every year. Nothing too serious. My 126 is running great, and I decided I wanted to add headlights. I found a 127, with headlights, for $225 - which was only $100 more than headlights/tail lights/switch would cost me. So, I purchased it. I have it up and running nicely. The 127 also came with a 48" deck and a really nice homemade weight box.

My plan is to make the best tractor out of the two, and then pass the 127 along.

I'm completely new to cub tractors, but have a general understanding of how they work.

Hopefully you stuck through my story. If you did, maybe you can help me with my current problem. I am trying to remove the headlight switch from the 127, so that I can transfer it to my 126. I loosened the nut that is on the outside of the tractor, but the two halves of the switch will not separate. How does one remove this switch? I don't want to pull to aggressively and end up breaking it. These switches aren't cheap to replace.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm going to take a bunch of photos, and start loading them up. The 126 will be setup to do work, not for show, but I think its really starting to look great!

Again thanks for the help this community has bestowed upon me already. I hope I can pay it forward and help the next poor clueless soul that wanders in. :beerchug:

sir_lancealot 11-21-2017 10:28 PM

Pull the switch out, like you’re turning it on. There’s a small hole in the shaft. Stick something in there to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the knob off the end.

J-Mech 11-21-2017 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438714)
These switches aren't cheap to replace.

How do you figure? $5 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $5 at any parts store. $15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new one.

Rescue11 11-21-2017 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438723)
How do you figure? $500 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $1,500 at any parts store. $00.15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new to you one.:BangPC:

X2, just money... Can't take it with you.

Regards,

Trent

finsruskw 11-22-2017 10:22 AM

I'd keep 'em both and restore/repair as needed.
Would make for a nice pair at a show for folks to compare.
Both from the same series, #5, and the last of the NF's.
One hydro, 25,485 built, and the other gear drive, 5,247 built.

MattC 11-22-2017 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438723)
How do you figure? $5 is expensive? Nothing proprietary here. Just a push pull switch. Like $5 at any parts store. $15 if you go to NAPA, lol. I wouldn't even bother taking a used switch off to use. I'd just get a new one.

I want to use the factory switch. My understanding is that they don't make them anymore.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-1...ss!06412!US!-1

They seem to go for $30+, and most aren't in good shape.

MattC 11-22-2017 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sir_lancealot (Post 438722)
Pull the switch out, like you’re turning it on. There’s a small hole in the shaft. Stick something in there to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the knob off the end.

Thanks! I'll try that tonight.

Lanceskene 11-22-2017 12:29 PM

$30+ for an antique electrical switch that looks like it will most likely short out and burn your tractor to the ground??????? WTF

Just but a cheap NEW switch.... OEM is worthless on a toasted tractor.

J-Mech 11-22-2017 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438750)
I want to use the factory switch. My understanding is that they don't make them anymore.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-1...ss!06412!US!-1

They seem to go for $30+, and most aren't in good shape.

New ones are just like the OEM switch. Can't tell any difference on the outside. Sure, the back may look different.... but it works the same. I really do not understand why people get so excited about freakin light switches. (You aren't the only one who seems to think they are something special.) Makes about as much sense to me as wanting an OEM tire inner tube, or wiring harness.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Lanceskene (Post 438759)
$30+ for an antique electrical switch that looks like it will most likely short out and burn your tractor to the ground??????? WTF

Just but a cheap NEW switch.... OEM is worthless on a toasted tractor.

:beerchug::beerchug:

ironman 11-22-2017 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438760)
New ones are just like the OEM switch. Can't tell any difference on the outside. Sure, the back may look different.... but it works the same. I really do not understand why people get so excited about freakin light switches. (You aren't the only one who seems to think they are something special.) Makes about as much sense to me as wanting an OEM tire inner tube, or wiring harness.




:beerchug::beerchug:

I met a guy that is still looking for the the OEM air that came in his tires.:ROTF1::ROTF2::ROTF2:

MattC 11-22-2017 04:43 PM

I didn't realize wanting to reuse the original switch was so controversial. In the end the old switch won't cost me anything but the time to remove it anyway. I purchased the 127 cheap enough, so that I will get my money back after I've switched the parts over. And I'm certainly not going to concern myself with the switch burning my tractor down.

I prefer to keep an old tractor old, and don't think there is anything wrong with doing so.

J-Mech 11-22-2017 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438777)
I didn't realize wanting to reuse the original switch was so controversial. In the end the old switch won't cost me anything but the time to remove it anyway. I purchased the 127 cheap enough, so that I will get my money back after I've switched the parts over. And I'm certainly not going to concern myself with the switch burning my tractor down.

I prefer to keep an old tractor old, and don't think there is anything wrong with doing so.


It's not controversial..... but I digress. It's your tractor, your time and your money. You can do whatever you want.

I've seen bad switches let the smoke out of wires. Just sayin.

jbrewer 11-22-2017 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438777)
I prefer to keep an old tractor old, and don't think there is anything wrong with doing so.

I get the idea of re-using the old. I did the same with a starter switch on my Original which had sat in the woods for some (long) time. I was able to get it apart, clean and reassemble it. All it took was time.

I'm not sure if you can disassemble that switch, but if you can, there's likely not much to it.

It's only original once, and you can always go get a new one later if it doesn't work out.

John

johncub7172 11-22-2017 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MattC (Post 438714)
Hello all,

I've been asking questions regarding my two tractors, so I figured I should just make a thread. Better to make one place for all my questions. :HeadScratch:

Quick backstory:

I purchased my 126 to mow my lawn, plow my driveway, and use for tractor parades and local pulling. We have a few events every year. Nothing too serious. My 126 is running great, and I decided I wanted to add headlights. I found a 127, with headlights, for $225 - which was only $100 more than headlights/tail lights/switch would cost me. So, I purchased it. I have it up and running nicely. The 127 also came with a 48" deck and a really nice homemade weight box.

My plan is to make the best tractor out of the two, and then pass the 127 along.

I'm completely new to cub tractors, but have a general understanding of how they work.

Hopefully you stuck through my story. If you did, maybe you can help me with my current problem. I am trying to remove the headlight switch from the 127, so that I can transfer it to my 126. I loosened the nut that is on the outside of the tractor, but the two halves of the switch will not separate. How does one remove this switch? I don't want to pull to aggressively and end up breaking it. These switches aren't cheap to replace.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm going to take a bunch of photos, and start loading them up. The 126 will be setup to do work, not for show, but I think its really starting to look great!

Again thanks for the help this community has bestowed upon me already. I hope I can pay it forward and help the next poor clueless soul that wanders in. :beerchug:

. I’m with you on wanting original equipment kept on my tractor. I found a perfect IH push pull light switch and right away I installed it to my 125. Keeping these tractors in original condition is fine and dandy. Try to get that switch out of the 127 and keep your $5 and forget the cheap china crap being pushed down our throats!

Bamafan 11-22-2017 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jbrewer (Post 438798)
I get the idea of re-using the old. I did the same with a starter switch on my Original which had sat in the woods for some (long) time. I was able to get it apart, clean and reassemble it. All it took was time.

I'm not sure if you can disassemble that switch, but if you can, there's likely not much to it.

It's only original once, and you can always go get a new one later if it doesn't work out.

John

What he said :beerchug:

Lanceskene 11-22-2017 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman (Post 438765)
I met a guy that is still looking for the the OEM air that came in his tires.:ROTF1::ROTF2::ROTF2:

Ya mean I can SELL the AIR too???? Awesome..... how would I ship that??? LOLOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438796)
I've seen bad switches let the smoke out of wires. Just sayin.

... too often followed by Flames. :O

J-Mech 11-23-2017 12:40 AM

Eh.... no use Lance. I guess some guys think IH made the light switch. (They didn't.) Heck, I'd be willing to bet if the switch had been replaced 30 years ago from an auto parts store, no one would ever even know it wasn't an "OEM" switch.... and think that it was. Gotta have an original light switch.... as if it makes it better or worth more. :bash2:

Lanceskene 11-23-2017 12:52 AM

Hey ya, each to their own, I go thru waaay too many tractors to worry about oem electrical... alot the old wiring harnesses I see are just fire traps waitin for somebody to turn the key on. LOL

J-Mech 11-23-2017 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lanceskene (Post 438820)
Hey ya, each to their own, I go thru waaay too many tractors to worry about oem electrical... alot the old wiring harnesses I see are just fire traps waitin for somebody to turn the key on. LOL

No joke! :beerchug:

johncub7172 11-23-2017 01:03 AM

Lance, Jon, your both a pair of knuckle heads!

Not a thing wrong in the world with keeping an original light switch, and trying to stay close to original equipment as can.

Lance, your not the first to just "run out" and throw money at parts. Especially given the number of tractors you have! There are a lot of original switches still in use. Where's the fire? Stop over exaggerating.

Jon, nothing wrong with you or your suggestions. However, there are those of us who do appreciate original equipment on our garden tractors. I tend to lean both ways :biggrin2:

J-Mech 11-23-2017 01:13 AM

Man, I better go pull all my old electrical components and put them up for sale. If people really do get $30 for a light switch that you can get for $5 new, I'll take 600% mark up on any electrical parts I have to sell! I bet my PM box fills up tonight!

Lanceskene 11-23-2017 01:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172 (Post 438823)
Lance, Jon, your both a pair of knuckle heads!

Not a thing wrong in the world with keeping an original light switch, and trying to stay close to original equipment as can.

Lance, your not the first to just "run out" and throw money at parts. Especially given the number of tractors you have! There are a lot of original switches still in use. Where's the fire? Stop over exaggerating.

Jon, nothing wrong with you or your suggestions. However, there are those of us who do appreciate original equipment on our garden tractors. I tend to lean both ways :biggrin2:

Yes your right... nothing wrong with keeping it original.... but did ya see the $35 light switch?? looks like it came off a sunken ship.:bash2:

johncub7172 11-23-2017 01:58 AM

Ha! I see that. Feel free to fire away at me. I'm not taking the fun from this forum!:biggrin2:

I was not trying to go against anyone's good judgment, and suggestions! My interest in having original items can sometimes support other members who feel the same way, at times. Its like those who search for the oil bath air filter for their Original Cub Cadets, or like having a factory correct replacement carb for a 1957 Chevy Bel-Air

:beerchug:

Lanceskene 11-23-2017 02:09 AM

I got some oem fuel line... how much can I get for that. Lol... :Duh:

john hall 11-23-2017 09:33 AM

If you are looking for a 62801dc switch, take a look at this one from Steiner.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS38...F=517B63D8A8F2

Yes it's expensive, but you have to be willing to PAY for reproduction, not generic will fit. Make sure it comes with the knob. Don't trust my research, verify the Cadet and cross-reference part numbers before you order anything.

I'm a big fan of keeping things original. Part of doing that is buying reproduction parts. Some things--especially electrical--don't last forever. I wouldn't want to replace my 50 year old electrical parts on anything with other 50 year old used electrical parts---unless we are talking about something EXTREMELY rare and valuable. Heck, I've had to replace 3 key switches in Cadets in the last 10 years. Unless it is NOS, I wouldn't install a used one if you GAVE it to me.

By the way, when Steiner first came out with those, I ordered one (think it was different for Magneto application) to put on a 47 Farmall M my grandmother bought new.

darkminion_17 11-23-2017 12:04 PM

John, Those will work.
You others about the old switch starting a a fire, wired correctly with the correct fuse there will be no fire.
So go buy what you please.

Alvy 11-23-2017 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 438819)
Eh.... no use Lance. I guess some guys think IH made the light switch. (They didn't.) Heck, I'd be willing to bet if the switch had been replaced 30 years ago from an auto parts store, no one would ever even know it wasn't an "OEM" switch.... and think that it was. Gotta have an original light switch.... as if it makes it better or worth more. :bash2:

I think we should have a poll and see how many feel one way or another about it. Just to see how the results come out, not for any kind of argument or whatever. I’m just curious.

I personally like the look of the old switches and the quality of them.

On a side note Jon, I think there’s another Lance out there that will disagree with you :biggrin2:

Lanceskene 11-23-2017 01:09 PM

Dont take it too seriously guys, Im not knockin anyone for wanting original BUT... if you have a faulty switch in a 40+ year old tractor you need to get it out of there.... faulty switches CAN and sometimes DO start a fire, a cheap NEW replacement will at least buy you some time to find a GOOD oem switch if thats the route you want to go.... but that $35 rusty switch on ebay is not what I would call a GOOD oem switch, thats just replacing one fire hazard with another.

I sell these tractors so for me.... proper function and safety always comes before originality, if the next guy wants to go oem thats up to him.

MattC 11-27-2017 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 438842)
If you are looking for a 62801dc switch, take a look at this one from Steiner.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS38...F=517B63D8A8F2

Yes it's expensive, but you have to be willing to PAY for reproduction, not generic will fit. Make sure it comes with the knob. Don't trust my research, verify the Cadet and cross-reference part numbers before you order anything.

I'm a big fan of keeping things original. Part of doing that is buying reproduction parts. Some things--especially electrical--don't last forever. I wouldn't want to replace my 50 year old electrical parts on anything with other 50 year old used electrical parts---unless we are talking about something EXTREMELY rare and valuable. Heck, I've had to replace 3 key switches in Cadets in the last 10 years. Unless it is NOS, I wouldn't install a used one if you GAVE it to me.

By the way, when Steiner first came out with those, I ordered one (think it was different for Magneto application) to put on a 47 Farmall M my grandmother bought new.

Thanks for the link! I didn't know those were available.


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