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-   -   1811 Won't move (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50335)

J-Mech 10-22-2017 08:54 PM

1811 Won't move
 
Hey guys need help. I was mowing today and the 1811 just stopped dead in it's tracks. I have no idea what is wrong. I didn't move it because I was scared to tear it up. I don't even know where to begin. I'm just all distraught over this. Can anyone tell me what happened and how to fix it? I'm pretty good with tools but I just don't know anything about garden tractors. I own a hammer, cresent wrench and a pair of pliers. I have a few wrenches from Wal-Mart too. I just can't be without my main machine! It's supposed to rain here for the next few days and my yard needs mowed. Do you guys think I blew up the hydro? It's really old and has a lot of hours on it. Can I get parts to fix it? Is it going to be expensive? Can anyone come help me?? I knew just what to do when I quit. I finished picking up my stuff and came straight to the computer to make a post before even looking at the tractor. I figure the guys at OCC can tell me what happened and how to fix it.


AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

olds45512 10-22-2017 08:59 PM

Did you check the fuse for the PTO?

darkminion_17 10-22-2017 09:01 PM

Did you check the air in the tires?

john hall 10-22-2017 09:02 PM

Uh-oh, you done broke it and didn't get the grass cut. Boy are you ever going to hear about this one. :bigeyes:

sir_lancealot 10-22-2017 09:13 PM

I think you need to check to make sure the hydro linkages are moving properly. Easiest way to check it out is to cut some sort of hole in the tunnel cover so you can see down in there. If you don't have anything like a sawz-all, go get a round, metal hole saw at your local tool place. If you want to save a few bucks, hunt around everywhere you can online to find the cheapest one. You'll probably have the tool in-hand in 5-7 business days.

Rescue11 10-22-2017 09:16 PM

Ok, first of all, we need pictures. How is anybody supposed to help you if we don't have pictures? Second of all do you have gas in the tank? Gas is rather important.

By the way have you checked your fuel to oil ratio? When you pull the dipstick there should be at least 25% gas in the oil pan at all times. This ensures proper combustion from the lower end of the engine to help push the Piston back up after the "Power Stroke".

Third of all is there a spark plug anywhere near the machine? If not I suggest you find one and throw it hard as you can at the muffler. It's kind of a long shot, but if you do manage to strike the muffler with a spark plug it will cause a chain reaction most of the time ending up in a backfire but will make the engine run. Fourthly did you check to make sure there is indeed an engine underneath the hood?

Now that the engine is running, it is time to check the drive line. Is there one? If not we will need pictures. Typically there is a shaft sticking out the front of the engine which should have a pulley mounted on it going to a black thing on the side of the engine this creates electricity. It has nothing to do with your drive line.

Just about all Simplicity garden tractors have a belt going from the engine to a component of some sort somewhere on the machine. Find this component and completely disassemble it. Once disassembled you should see a ball bearing.

With the information you have provided it's highly suspect that your machine has not been greased in quite some time. There are several YouTube videos showing you how to do this. The best advice I can give you is to take a ball bat and hit yourself over the head repeatedly until the machine is completely greased.

We will need pictures of all of this. I suggest that you post them on an expired Photobucket account

Let us know how it comes out:beerchug:

J-Mech 10-22-2017 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512 (Post 435823)
Did you check the fuse for the PTO?

I did not... I thought that just affected the lights? Will it also make it not move?


Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17 (Post 435824)
Didja check the air in the tars?

My tires are fluid filled. Do I still need to put some air in them? I have one of those little hand held pumps to air up a basketball. Will that work?


Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 435825)
Uh-oh, you done broke it and didn't get the grass cut. Boy are you ever going to hear about this one. :bigeyes:

I know. I never going to live this down! :RedFace2:

J-Mech 10-22-2017 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sir_lancealot (Post 435827)
I think you need to check to make sure the hydro linkages are moving properly. Easiest way to check it out is to cut some sort of hole in the tunnel cover so you can see down in there. If you don't have anything like a sawz-all, go get a round, metal hole saw at your local tool place. If you want to save a few bucks, hunt around everywhere you can online to find the cheapest one. You'll probably have the tool in-hand in 5-7 business days.

I have an air chisel. I've used it to take the tops out of 55 gallon drums before. I'll just use it like a can opener to make a hole. I'm afraid if I order a hole saw online, it won't look like the pic in the ad and I'll get the wrong one. I'm not very good at reading descriptions.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Rescue11 (Post 435829)
Ok, first of all, we need pictures. How is anybody supposed to help you if we don't have pictures? Second of all do you have gas in the tank? Gas is rather important.

By the way have you checked your fuel to oil ratio? When you pull the dipstick there should be at least 25% gas in the oil pan at all times. This ensures proper combustion from the lower end of the engine to help push the Piston back up after the "Power Stroke".

Third of all is there a spark plug anywhere near the machine? If not I suggest you find one and throw it hard as you can at the muffler. It's kind of a long shot, but if you do manage to strike the muffler with a spark plug it will cause a chain reaction most of the time ending up in a backfire but will make the engine run. Fourthly did you check to make sure there is indeed an engine underneath the hood?

Now that the engine is running, it is time to check the drive line. Is there one? If not we will need pictures. Typically there is a shaft sticking out the front of the engine which should have a pulley mounted on it going to a black thing on the side of the engine this creates electricity. It has nothing to do with your drive line.

Just about all Simplicity garden tractors have a belt going from the engine to a component of some sort somewhere on the machine. Find this component and completely disassemble it. Once disassembled you should see a ball bearing.

With the information you have provided it's highly suspect that your machine has not been greased in quite some time. There are several YouTube videos showing you how to do this. The best advice I can give you is to take a ball bat and hit yourself over the head repeatedly until the machine is completely greased.

We will need pictures of all of this. I suggest that you post them on an expired Photobucket account

Let us know how it comes out:beerchug:

Oh my..... will all that take a long time? It seems really complex. I hate to say this, but you have me more worried now than I was before! I better go out right now and start checking things over. To be honest, I've never opened the hood. I'm not even sure whether there is an engine under the hood or not! :bigeyes:

PaulS 10-22-2017 09:48 PM

I think the nut that holds the wheel is a bit loose. Lol

DieselDoctor 10-22-2017 09:50 PM

What do the guys on the JD forum say? I know you've probably asked them about your Cub first. Don't forget to ask your old uncle Al, the one that used to work for a farmer back in the '30s. He'll know whats wrong!

DeltaCub 10-22-2017 10:09 PM

You guys are all wrong! It is plane too sea that its got to be the kanooder valve. you dont need no whole sawz just a hack sawz. you start buy kutting across the frame in front of the seet. cut all the down and everthing inside. then bend the tractter like a bendy straw so yoos can get to the kanooder valve .then replace the startr switch

J-Mech 10-22-2017 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rescue11 (Post 435829)
Ok, first of all, we need pictures. How is anybody supposed to help you if we don't have pictures?

I don't know how to upload pictures..... all this stuff is so hard. :BlahBlah:


Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulS (Post 435835)
I think the nut that holds the wheel is a bit loose. Lol

The steering wheel? Or the rear wheel? I'm so confused......


Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselDoctor (Post 435836)
What do the guys on the JD forum say? I know you've probably asked them about your Cub first. Don't forget to ask your old uncle Al, the one that used to work for a farmer back in the '30s. He'll know whats wrong!

I didn't even think about the John Deere forum. I was getting ready to make a post of Facebook. I hear the Cub Cadet pages on there are just full of really smart people who are extremely helpful!


Quote:

Originally Posted by DeltaCub (Post 435844)
You guys are all wrong! It is plane too sea that its got to be the kanooder valve. you dont need no whole sawz just a hack sawz. you start buy kutting across the frame in front of the seet. cut all the down and everthing inside. then bend the tractter like a bendy straw so yoos can get to the kanooder valve .then replace the startr switch

That is such an awesome idea! That seems way easier.... bending it in half like that. I do have two hacksaws. Maybe I can duct tape them together to get done twice as fast!!!



Seriously guys..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. That really happened....

DeltaCub 10-22-2017 10:19 PM

I recommend you scrap the 1811 and go buy Lew's new to him Simplicity!:beerchug:

Rescue11 10-22-2017 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 435845)
Seriously guys, the John Deere forum is great..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. Then all the plastic fell off. That really happened....

Check the roll pin :beerchug:

J-Mech 10-22-2017 10:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rescue11 (Post 435849)
Check the roll pin :beerchug:

Roll pin?

Attachment 88265

J-Mech 10-22-2017 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 435845)
Seriously guys, the John Deere forum is great..... I really was mowing and the tractor just stopped. Then all the plastic fell off. That really happened....


Did I really say this? :ExtremeFunny:

_DX3_ 10-22-2017 10:30 PM

1 Attachment(s)
:bash: Well from what I see and hear you better get on Facebook and ask the "profeshionals"

Attachment 88266

zippy1 10-22-2017 11:23 PM

Jon, just wait till the morning and Sam will be on. He'll know what to do.
Just curious, you didn't eat before you went mowing? Did you? You waited at least an hour? OR was that something else all together?:bigthink:

J-Mech 10-22-2017 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_ (Post 435855)
:bash: Well from what I see and hear you better get on Facebook and ask the "profeshionals"

Attachment 88266

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1 (Post 435872)
Jon, just wait till the morning and Sam will be on. He'll know what to do.
Just curious, you didn't eat before you went mowing? Did you? You waited at least an hour? OR was that something else all together?:bigthink:


I really hope either can help. :NailBite::NailBite:

J-Mech 10-22-2017 11:58 PM

Well...


I'll spill it. The tractor really did stop moving while I was mowing. I wasn't too phased. BTDT. Drug it up to the shop to see which pin broke. It was the one on the motor. Went to the "stash" to get a new one..... and I was out of them. Dang it. Took them with me my last trip to my bro's and installed them on his 126 when we put the creeper in. I forgot to order more. Oh well. I have enough parts laying around, I just grabbed a used driveshaft off the shelf and knocked out the pin and put it in the 1811. Took longer to go get my pin punches that were in my toolbox 2 miles away. I did sit down and order a new box of pins though. McMaster Carr. $12 + shipping for a box of 50 of them. I like to keep them on the shelf. Way better deal than buying from CCC. They want nearly $3 per pin!! :bigeyes: I did order the regular ones. Not sure if I should have got the harder ones. Sheer strength on the regular ones is like 5500# as opposed to 7700# or something like that on the harder ones. They were $12 for a box of 25, so double the cost. No reason not to keep things that fail on the shelf boys. I should have ordered some tie rod ends too. I think I used the last I had this spring. :bigthink:

Sam Mac 10-23-2017 06:09 AM

LMAO, good way to start the day! :ROTF1::ROTF2:

Terry C 10-23-2017 11:10 AM

Best thread in quite awhile. :biggrin2::biggrin2:

IliketheRedcubs 10-23-2017 12:17 PM

You all are forgetting the best tool of all to get at the problem... a cutting torch!! :biggrin2::beerchug:

J-Mech 10-23-2017 01:22 PM

Thanks everyone for helping make this fun. I got a good laugh out of a bunch of the responses.


This one is my favorite:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rescue11 (Post 435829)
Now that the engine is running, it is time to check the drive line. Is there one? If not we will need pictures. Typically there is a shaft sticking out the front of the engine which should have a pulley mounted on it going to a black thing on the side of the engine this creates electricity. It has nothing to do with your drive line.

:ExtremeFunny::ExtremeFunny:

Sam Mac 10-23-2017 05:44 PM

If it don't fit don't force it get a bigger hammer. :biggrin2:

J-Mech 10-23-2017 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac (Post 435951)
If it don't fit don't force it get a bigger hammer. :biggrin2:

LOL! I used to work with a guy who said that all the time. :biggrin2:


Sam, if you moved this thanks. I was planning to, just hadn't done it yet. I wanted to have a little fun, but didn't plan to leave it in the tractor section. :beerchug:

Shrewcub 10-24-2017 01:49 PM

I'm very disappointed in all of you! That is clearly a symptom of a seized turbo encabulator.:bash2::beatdeadhorse:

john hall 10-24-2017 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shrewcub (Post 436028)
I'm very disappointed in all of you! That is clearly a symptom of a seized turbo encabulator.:bash2::beatdeadhorse:

Should be able to replace it with one of these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

Rescue11 10-24-2017 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 436054)
Should be able to replace it with one of these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/flux-capacitor

That... Is freaking awesome!!! LMAO so funny and cool. Can't believe they actually have this listed on their website:ROTF2:

J-Mech 10-24-2017 10:09 PM

LMFAO.

You used to be able to order them, but they were special order..... wonder why you can't anymore? :bigthink:

Rescue11 10-26-2017 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 436071)
LMFAO.

You used to be able to order them, but they were special order..... wonder why you can't anymore? :bigthink:

For real? Huh, looks like stuff I have on my shelf. I love Back to the Future, especially the 3rd 1

sir_lancealot 10-27-2017 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech (Post 436071)
LMFAO.

You used to be able to order them, but they were special order..... wonder why you can't anymore? :bigthink:

They used to have a Mr. Fusion as well.

sorner 10-27-2017 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rescue11 (Post 435829)
By the way have you checked your fuel to oil ratio? When you pull the dipstick there should be at least 25% gas in the oil pan at all times. This ensures proper combustion from the lower end of the engine to help push the Piston back up after the "Power Stroke".

This... is... incredible! :LMAO1::LMAO1::LMAO1::LMAO1:


Oh, and.. :TTWWP:

Other than a "roll pin" picture, there is no photo evidence here that you even really have a non moving 1811. :bigthink:


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