149 voltage regulators?
 

From what I have seen and heard there are three different v/r setups for the 149 and my question is, is there a certain way the the voltage regulators are predetermined from factory or is it randomly generated. The voltage regulator has stopped my build on my 149 for a year, and it can't be the generator cause that was rebuilt right before I got the tractor. I can't rely on the regulator cause moly Dad threw the original away.

First, welcome to OCC..... :Welcome2:

You were badly misinformed. The 149 rolled out of the Factory with the one and only IH-545130-R91 Voltage Regulator. Now that V/R has been superseded twice, and now is IH-545130-R93.

See: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2

Since you mention that it can't be the s/g I'm guessing you're having a charging issue?

Correct, the regulator would be on and off with charging. It would never fully work but go in and out between charging and no charge what so ever.

Have you checked your wiring to make sure you have good connection's and a good ground? Seems a little unusual that it works intermittently.

Just because it was"just" rebuilt, don't mean that it "can't" be bad, sounds like a bad connection inside the housing. There has been a lot of talk here about the stud twisting off internally. Or a bad insulator on the stud.

Is this an original regulator? Or is it a "new" one? The ones you pick up on eBay/amazon/etc are wired differently than the original ones. (the "gen" terminal is on the backside of them).

If you have a multimeter, you should have 12v on the "bat" terminal with the engine off. When running at high idle, the "gen" and "bat" terminals should probably both show the same voltage (around 13.5ish volts). If "gen" is at 13.5 and "bat" is at 12something, you've got a bad v/r (or, more likely, need to clean the contacts inside it).

If the generator is putting out MORE than 13.5 volts, the v/r is not regulating the s/g voltage, and you've got either a wiring issue or a bad v/r.

I'd be very sure that everything is properly (and securely) grounded and make doubly sure that the v/r is wired properly. What I do when you can't figure out the wire color is measure the voltage with the engine off to figure out which wire is the "bat" one, label that. Then disconnect the battery, disconnect the field wire from the s/g and test continuity until you find the proper field wire on the harness. Label that. And then the remaining wire goes to the generator (gen) (there is also ground wire, and you should test continuity of that too).

Hook it all back up and it should be ok, given that all the components are ok.

From the sound of it, my guess is that you have a bad ground or loose connection somewhere.

News update
 

Just tried to start it up and hooked up the regulator and the multimeter said it was charging at 17.5 volts! I'm leaning towards the problem being the v/r but am still not sure.

That means that the V/R isn’t regulating. That is what will happen when you short the field lead to ground. I’d double check continuity on the field wire to the V/R, and if that’s good, crack the v/r open and check the contacts in there.

V/r seller
 

Regulator is no good, contacts are burnt to a crisp, where should I buy a regulator from, cub cadet sell one on their website for $115 and I don't got that kind of money where would you guys recommend getting one from.

Ebay Have got a couple there, seem to be working

NAPA has VR896 for about $72.00

I bought one chinesium eBay one for 20 ish dollars for my 128 early this year, so far so good.

Found these on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...%23+545130-r93

When it comes to v-regs, you get what you pay for. I personally would buy from Napa, or get a name brand regulator such as Borg Warner, Delco, ect. Get ready to shell out at least $60. Just my opinion, but I'd shy away from the el-cheapos.

I have one on my old 149 frame. It worked when it was torn apart. If you want a decent used one cheap shoot me a PM.

Ditto.....

:IH Trusted Hand:

That's what the one that is burnt up right now, an eBay Chinese v/r for $25.

Their was a different post on this forum that said that the regulators with a post mounted on the bottom was a " no go" due to them apparently " being wired differently". Not doubting what your knowledge just curious if this is true.

You have misunderstood that posting. The V/R is a good replacement. The ONLY issue is that the terminals are in different locations as compared to the OEM Delco. Functionally, it works as good as the OEM, if it mounted and wired correctly.

However, it is your tractor, your time, and your money, you can do and buy as you seem fit.

Ok, thank you for the correction.

I just picked one up. The one I am replacing is a VR898. The configuration on it has 4 posts and appears to be P/N 121577-C1 as shown in Roland's "Mechanical Voltage Regulators" in the tech section.

The NAPA VR896 still has 4 posts, but the Gen post is located on the underside and angled at a 45* toward the Fld/Bat/L posts. A bit strange for mounting a wire. I'll have to plug the Gen post on before mounting the regulator to the tractor. Then attach the Field and Bat lines and leave "Load" empty. NAPA's online photo didn't show anything but the top view, so all you see are 3 posts.

Just an FYI for all.

Most after market regulators have gen post on the back.

I am debating on returning the VR896 and exchanging it for the VR898.

In looking at things, it would be rather difficult to test the v/r. I don't think one can get a test probe under the v/r to check voltage on the "gen" terminal when you consider how restricted the space is where the v/r mounts. I'm not sure about the earlier models, but on the 149 it is under the seat and right of the battery. There is only a couple of inches clearance in any direction.

The VR898 has the "gen" terminal sticking out from underneath and would be easier to test probe.

Just my opinion and FYI to all.

The 898 is not the correct replacement part. Not being able to get to the terminal on the back for testing is silly. If you ever have another issue with it, you can find a way to get a probe in there. Use a test wire if you have to. It's not that difficult. :bash2:

J-Mech. It is not an issue of the "gen" terminal sticking out the back. It is an issue that the terminal does not stick out at all. It is turned 180 degrees and points UNDER the v/r. That is what is the issue. Most every v/r that I looked at has the "gen" terminal sticking straight out the backside including the one shown in the cub cadet parts look up. Also, almost every other after market v/r state that they replace both the original delco-remy v/r #s 1118981 as well as 1118988. The functionality is the same for either unit.

If Roland comes on and corrects my assumption, I can see no reason not to use the NAPA VR898 in lieu of the VR896. When it comes to electrical issues, I trust Roland's opinion over almost anyone else's.

When it comes to motors, I highly respect your knowledge and information.

I won't agree or disagree but here's what I will add.

The G or gen terminal of the V/R is essentially the A terminal of the s/g which is easy peezy to probe or clamp on.

It is my opinion, that when cross referencing a part from OEM to Aftermarket, get the part that matches (or closely matches) OEM specifications. The original Delco 1118981 crosses to the VR896, and that it the one I would use.

:IH Trusted Hand:

I don't see how it's an issue. I've mounted (and so have countless others) the VR896 with no issues at all, so I don't see why it is you don't think you can do it.


Both the 1118981 and the 1118988 cross over to a VR896 or a VR896SB. Neither cross over to a VR898. So, what is your point?


Well, I appreciate what you are saying.... but Roland isn't the only guy who knows how an electrical system works. A voltage regulator is, after all, something a mechanic would fix. Pretty sure I've worked on several. I'm not saying that an 898 won't work.... I'm saying that I can't find where it replaces the Delco Remy one originally installed. I also don't seem to have any of my Echlin part books anymore to see what the specs are. I'm trying to figure out how you came to the conclusion it will work, outside of it "looks" like the original. Not all regulators are created equally. That's why there are so many part numbers.



I too would stick to the VR896. I DO however want to know what the difference is between the VR896 and the VR896SB, as they both show as an acceptable interchange, and vary $20 in price. So, what is the difference between them?

The only problem is the VR898 does not cross to the original V/R number. Only the VR896 does. The 898 crosses to these numbers: 1119576, 1118999, 1118997,1118993, 1118779, 1118381, 105114A, & AT11855. The 896 crosses to these numbers: 1118988, 1118981 & 12336883.

So, you need to use the VR896 because it is the correct one.
The VR898 is correct for the Original, 70, and 100 models only. I believe it is because they have the push button start, so the 898 is different internally to handle that.

The VR is not related with the push button start in any way. The difference is with the "L" terminal, which I believe, if you can find some of the original installation instructions, is where IH wanted you to get power for the optional lights on the 70/100. Or from the ignition switch, where it was wired anyway.

The VR896 is a direct cross for all the VR's on any of the Cub Cadets that used a S/G set up.

Lance, where did you get the interchange list you provided? I can't find a listing of what the Napa VR's replace. :bigthink:

The VR898 also can be used on a positive grounded system. I think it was just the common V/R used during that era. Which I think the VR896SB can be used on pos or neg grounded systems too, but I'm not 100%.

I found it with my Google-fu. I'd have to go back and see if I can locate it again.

Here is the bottom line.

It is your tractor, it is your time, it is your money. You can do as you see fit.

All we can do is point you in the right direction. If you don't like our advice, so be it.