What donors for a 1872 repower.
 

Okay I have 1872 with a M18 engine that I don't trust. I helped my brother-in-law repower a 2072 with a motor from 2206. We are very pleased with how things worked out. So now I'm thinking of using 20-23hp Kohler. What machines should I watch for to get a donor engine.

This was our donor. I don't know how a 500 hour tractor can be so bad. Yes I do the guy used a power washer to keep it clean and destroyed it in the process. Good thing we only wanted the motor and 15 minutes from home.

Cub Cadet Tractors with a Kohler Command 18:
2185, 2186, LT2042

Command 20:
2084, 2206, 2518, GT2186, GT2544

Command 22:
2284

Hey now, a 2284 should never be a donor machine! :angry: :biggrin2: :beerchug:

Don't even dream of using a 2084 or a 2284 as a donor. You can add the 1863 it also has a CH18. :beerchug:

New to forum and anything newer than a IH built cub. What does a 2284 have to over other than being 22 HP? Just wanting to learn.

It’s a super, so it’s bigger and built heavier. Tilt wheel,turning brakes, power steering, and some other things. Way too nice a machine to use the engine out it and part it out.

Will I be happy with a less then 300 hour CH18 Kohler?

Don't forget a CH18 turns into a CH20 by removing 1 screw. :beerchug:

I think someone beat me to it.

why don't you trust the M18? Do some maintenance on it ,and run it for all its worth, get the goody out of it, while you look for a better deal on a donor. My most recent orange tractor (Ariens) that I bought just for the rear PTO mount tiller, was thought to be "seized up". so I basically bought the tiller, with the tractor thrown in. I had another tractor already, that I could use the tiller on. so it would have been worth the price I paid just based on that.
I (had) an engine here, that I thought might be a good swap in candidate, at least to check out the electrics and hydraulics to see if the tractor would be a keeper, or head to scrap. This tractor had been sitting outside for eons, with no top on the air filter (though that is partly protected by the tractor hood)
I was all ready from the getgo, to write off that original engine. based solely on what the prior owner had said. I bought that rig with the understanding that the engine was "shot".
As it turns out, just the starter drive was stuck outwards. and the starter itself was seized tight.
I put a pair of channellocks on the driveshaft between flywheel and hydro and with a slight yank, it was freed. Huh.... and not blown up either.

well, I went thru the potential replacement engine (an M18) and do a major tune up on it, since it came to me also not running (but not frozen, and had compression on both jugs) I had that engine running great, had the old engine off, and the tractor all power washed, ready for the transplant/ and I got to looking at the cylinders, realized they looked better than the "new" engine did, just eyeballing top of piston ring lands and such,
the killer for the transplant was the oil filter being mounted directly to the block... I needed a remote mount instead. I went to set the "new" engine into the frame, the oil filter hit upon the frame rail and crushed itself, and there would be no way to change the filter as it was set up, without unbolting the engine and raising it during every oil change from then on, so I took the starter from that M18, and put onto the original engine, decarboned the heads, ground the valves and put it together. Let it rip and it ran great. so I decided to put that engine back in place, and see what I could get out of it..... The kicker? That engine that I was so ready to cast aside? A lowly KT19 Series I. It powers the tiller easily.

I now have a (different) M18 sitting here, ready to go as a drop in spare, and I have recently acquired the remote oil line setup to go along with this engine, in case I do wind up eventually needing to trash the KT if it blows..... at this point, I have it as a dedicated tiller tractor, so being that tilling isn't a year round deal, couple weeks of usage spring and fall.... maybe that will prolong the agony.... haha..... but I do have 2 of these same tractors with that engine in it. the other one is my snow handler.

give that M18 a chance.... then once it does knock and/or scatter, you can contact me, as I have another engine that needs tin and it's missing a carb, so part of your M18 can live on... since I had to steal its tin to replace the rotted out original tin, from this KT that I have. I'm in Illinois too, even.

huh? haven't ever worked on a CH series Kohler, enlighten me.

Remove the screw that is the throttle stop on the carb. And you have to reset the governor. Mike:biggrin2:

Wow. That's interesting for sure. I'll try to remember that if I ever do get my hands on one of those engines.
Like the Magnum twins that can be a 14, a 15, a 16, a 17 or an 18 with the same long block....
HP Stickers are cheap.

This is usually your best bet, the 2000 series don't seem to weather well and look like to one you posted. I see them often in my area for a couple hundred dollars or less.


The best argument that I can come up with for the CH series is that they are still current. I too have an 1872 which I am repowering with a CH18 this summer; engine plate, driveshaft, wiring and you're up and running.

Did the original poster finish this?

I have a nice 2072 that I paid too much for and the M20 has burned exhaust valves with 1100 hours.

I have a donor engine from a 3235 (CH23S) but the PTO uses a belt tensioner and I need to utilize an electric PTO. Can some of you please recommend what clutch will work on this 1-1/16" shaft size crank? The original pulley on the M20 is 4.5 inches.

Any other advice for the swap would be great also.

Thank-you

Call Xtreme Outdoor Power Equipment
3705 95th Ave. N.E.
Blaine, MN 55014

Office Number: 561-852-1010

Email:
sales@xtremeope.com
techsupport@xtremeope.com

And see if they can hook you up.

Thank-you!