782 starter R&R
 

How do you replace a starter on a 782 without pulling the engine?

The same way you do it when you pull the motor, just a little harder with it in the tractor though.

I find it MUCH harder with it in.:biggrin2:
And it's a real PITA to get the tins bolted back on with the engine in the frame. Seems easier to just pull the engine, at least for me that's the case.:bigthink:

It would be a chore in the tractor....

Engines in those come out very easily.. I think it would be quicker just to pull the engine than to try and fight the starter out without pulling the engine.. just my opinion

I've changed them in the frame. For me, it's faster than pulling the motor, but I have all the "cool" tools. :beerchug:

What tools do you use? Did you make them or buy them?

I loosen all the motor mount plates bolts, remove the ones on the starter side. Then raise the starter side of the engine about and inch or so. This is all you need to get at the two starter bolts on the end. I used ratcheting wrenches. Just did it in this spring.

I know the general consensus on this site is engine removal but I think this way was easier.

Snap-On. Sorry, I'm not going to list the "necessary tools".


I agree. But, I don't recall having to loosen the engine mounting bolts.... but I haven't had to change one for quite a while either. :bigthink:

Probably could have done it without raising that one side, just gave a few more clicks on the wrench.:biggrin2:

How in the heck do you two get the front left bolt in the tins. It's where the two tins attach together at the bottom front of the engine. Then I believe there is another on the lower blower housing...
Are you two circus contortionists or what?:bigthink::biggrin2:
Or, do you bend the shields all to $hi7 to gain access?:bigthink: Inquiring mind wants to know...

I took the hood and grill housing off, then used a swivel head 1/4" drive rachet on one and a gear wrench on another. (Swivel head and flex head are different. I'll try and find a pic of the difference in the morning.)

Over the years, I have pulled the starter on my 784 a few times. I have used all three methods (in place, engine removed, and engine propped up).

With the engine removed, there are far less cuss words.....:biggrin2:

With the engine in place, the key is "patience", the right tools, and a expanded vocabulary :bigeyes:

With the engine propped up....a compromise between #1 & #2. :ThumbsUp:

At no point during removing of the starter did I say " Well this isn't so bad" :biggrin2:

I've done it in frame, it was a pain.
easier to take it out and attend to those udder thins ya'll been wantin' ta doo:biggrin2:
like replace some seal or gasket and blowing the chit out of the fins.
replacing a broken/missing cooling shroud bolts or reaching around with air hose and blowing the stator area out, checking the ball in the front rag coupling.
As I say, there ain't no 5 minute jobs, just wishful thinking people.
Maybe tighten/grease the axle pivot,give the area a good cleaning, good time to
tighten yer balls in the steering box, give a 1/4 turn to the cam follower in there also.
Well you get the picture :biggrin2:
pro active beats the chit out of reactive every time.:beerchug:

May I ask what your Starter is doing that you feel you need to yank it? I am having starting issues and I am not sure if it's a lack of amperage from my 3 month old battery. My 6 month old Starter Relay not getting enough amperage to the Starter OR the Starter is not giving enough ooomph to turn the Engine sometimes. The Bendix always engages strong but sometimes the engine wont turn, you can hear the Starter hum a bit until finally the Engine Cranks. I thought maybe my points were off causing an Advanced Timing scenario. Not the case, just checked the points. I need to get up there with my car and run jumper cables to the battery and see if more amps makes the problem go away.

AGREED 100 percent George!:beerchug::beerchug:

Well said!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

I chased that same issue a few years ago.. after checking for resistance everywhere that you mentioned I finally gave in and replaced the starter.. the old one was pulling way too many amps... new one works like a champ!:beerchug:

I pulled the engine and did it on the bench.. didn't even try to do it in the frame:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Check the battery and connections. If the starter is going bad, and you jump it, more amps will definitely help it. The very nature of a bad starter is it draws too many amps, so giving a bad starter more amps via jumping with another battery, or using a battery charger will mask the issue. Jumping it proves nothing really.... Testing components does.

I know the difference in the two. Just can't picture in my head, how you get the nuts off and on without removing the tins, or bending them all too $hi7:bigthink:
I ain't saying it ain't so, just saying...:biggrin2:

Oh, I remove the muffler shroud, and the left side tin. I thought you meant you didn't know how I got the tins off. It's the right side tin that's nearly impossible to get out. Mostly because of the oil lines though. :beerchug:

I wonder what the life is on the internal brushes, not to mention cleaning the Brush contacts on the stator. The hour meter shows 600+ and I know it wasn't working when I got this tractor.

I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow. Lift the engine with Floor Jack under Bracket OR do you Lift from the intake manifold?

I just did the starter in my 782 this morning.
Terry C nailed it!!! With the 3 Bolts taken out of the 'Starter' side Mounting Plate and the other three loose. Plus, take out the Stater side Motor Mount bolts you can do this. After I got the side Tins off, I Slotted those holes you speak of so in the future I do not have to totally remove those hard to get bolts, Just loosen.
You will need a crow bar. Don't get panicky. You are not mangling anything you are just flexing the Tins for temporary clearance. The Front Engine Tin (Facing the rear of the tractor) to get the Lower Starter bolt. And the Rear engine Tin needs a little lift as you push the Starter toward the Front of the Tractor. That area is very tight. In Fact, you need to make sure the Motor mount bolt is down sitting on the Front axle so the back of the Starter can get out of the Bellhousing mount.
Getting the Lower Starter bolt required a 7/16 socket, two 6" extensions with a 'U' joint in between the extensions. That gives you the correct flex to run the sock up from the bottom of the tractor. Yes the screen underbelly has to come down. Starter exits out the front of the tractor.