Case/IH paint hardener.
 

I've had several people comment on the shine of the 100 I just finished up and have had a few ask which paint I was using. The paint is Case/IH irongard but instead of using there hardener I use Shopline jh6002 high gloss enamel hardener and I mix it 6 parts paint to 1 part hardener with a half part of reducer. Mixing 6 to 1 means that more hardener is used so the paint dries much faster and the Shopline hardener produces a higher shine than the regular hardener. One of the complaints I often hear about the Case/IH paint is how slow it dries but mixing it 6 to 1 the paint was rock hard the next day and I was able to begin assembly. Hope this helps.

Thanks for sharing Tim. It's little tricks like this that turn a good restoration into a great one.

And just where might one find this stuff?
Never heard of it before, but then I am not a painter
Thanks!

Shopline is a PPG brand so you should be able to find it anywhere PPG paint is sold.

Thank you very much for the insight.
What size tip do you use?

1.3, the 1.4 tip puts the material on a bit heavy for my liking but i don't think a 1.3 is an option for the guys using the harbor freight gun.

Thanks for the tip, I've got some Case backhoe wheels to paint if the Irongard Power Yellow I ordered ever comes in. I picked up some of the Shopline hardener but I was wondering what type of reducer you use? And what kind of recoat times does it give you? Thanks

I use PPG DT reducer because it's what i have on hand, any quality reducer will be just fine. How much reducer is dependent on color, some colors in Irongard spray great with no reducer but others require reducer to make them smooth out. I recommend you mix it 6 to 1 and try spraying a small spot, if it goes on smooth then you can continue painting, if it has a lot of texture you can add some reducer to help it flow.

Flash time between coats is dependent on a few factors like air-flow and temp, when painting with single stage i always recommend you wait until the paint is hand slick before putting on another coat, this will keep you from getting run's and will also prevent die-back which is when the paint lose's it's shine once dry.

Finally got to paint. Ended up with a full part of mid-temp reducer. I like it! Covered real well for a yellow and laid down great. 3 coats and only 1 small run on the backside. Just got done a hour or so ago so we'll see how it dries. The garage is about 70 but the furnace is running a lot to keep it there. That's ok cause it'll be at least next weekend before I mount the tire. I know I'm gonna use this on the next cub I do. Before and after pics with one of my 100's in the background.

I am doing my homework before starting the restoration of a 70. Does the hardener kind of take the place of some of the reducer? It has been 20 years since I painted a tractor and I never used any hardener back then. Your restoration thread was second to none. I am new to the group and totally blown away by the content here.

We tried to replace a 40+ year old door, but, because of it being brick inside and out, no carpenter would even consider the install,, even at $4,000.

SO, I removed the door, spent two days taking off the previous coats of "house paint" and repainted it.

The wife picked a color,, I decided to try to mix some tractor paints that I had in the shop, and paint it with that, mostly as a primer.

Well, I ended up almost perfectly matching the color the wife had chose.

50% AC Orange
35% IH Red
15% JD Green

AND hardener,, I buy hardener from Tractor Supply (the paint, also)

That door was painted at about 2PM,, and it was dry enough to install by 5PM.

I considered the paint fully hard within 48 hours,, it was probably less.

I just painted mine using CASE primer and paint

Was 8 to 1 ratio. 8 parts paint 1 part reducer and 1 part hardner

The more hardner the faster the paint will dry.

Took me close to 2 quarts white and 2 quarts yellow to do the full tractor and QA-42A. Have the deck still to do this summer

I recommend of you can get a rattle can of each from case for touch ups