Question regarding brakes on a car - troubleshooting
 

Having a hard time/wanting a second opinion regarding an issue my wife is having with the brakes on her car (2005 Malibu, btw). Long story short, once her car has been driven a bit (i.e. warmed up) the car starts pulling to one side and the drivers side brake gets very very hot. I know this because once driven around for a while stressing the brakes, the passenger side brake rotor reads around 200°F and the driver side reads over 540°F and the passenger side caliper reads 139°F and the driver side is 248°F. So, this tells me the drivers side brake is most likely stuck and not releasing. So, I purchase a new caliper and replace the driver's side caliper. I bleed the brakes and take it for a drive. The problem almost seems worse as when I get home, the drivers side caliper is now smoking it has gotten so hot.

So what could it be from there? The booster is obviously working and I don't believe it to be the master cylinder as that controls front and rear, not each brake independently. So this leave the ABS module...right? Anything I'm missing in this troubleshooting process? Lines are clear, each one I did flowed great when bleeding them.

Hoping for some expert opinions knowing the guys here, thanks in advance! :beerchug:

Did you check the wheel bearings for excess play?

I did not but I don't think it would be that. I don't get any wobble any other time than when the brakes have been ridden for a while to heat things up. I'm curious, though, what makes you think it could be that? At this point, I'm willing to check anything!

The rubber hose is collapsed internally (and won't release the pressure you apply with your foot) or the pads are seized in the anchors, although I'd think you would have noticed that if it was the case when you changed the caliper.

Bingo on the hose!:beerchug:

I'd bet money on the rubber hose that hooks to the caliper, I've had a few go bad over the years and they either do as you described or the brake on that side stops working​ which forces the other brake to do all the work. I would replace both, if ones bad the other probably isn't far behind.

My guess as well. I know nothing about anti lock brakes but I'd think if there was a malfunction, your dash light would pop on.

Any way to test the hose going bad? And it's not the pads seized in the anchors, those were very free to move.

No dash lights on this problem :bash:

Probably a hose as others have said but loose wheel bearings can allow the wheel to tip and rub against the pads. Also check to see if the brake pedal is returning all the way.

Best way to test the hose is replacement. They aren't that much. You can try this too.

Remove the wheel apply the brake, release, then open the bleeder. If fluid squirts out under pressure, the hose is acting like a check valve.

X2 :beerchug:

voting for the hose as well. I worked with a guy 25 years ago that drove an old Subaru. He was replacing brakes every 2 months, at least. Finally someone told him it was the brake hoses--problem solved. My guess is they are pretty cheap and if yours have some age on them, well lets just say it ain't no fun when one blows.

Any news on this? :popcorn::popcorn:

I gonna put my money on a caliper hanging up and a close second will be brake hose.

He replaced the caliper and the new one is hanging up. Almost has to be the collapsed internally hose.

Whoops, didn't see there was a second page to this or much interest! I have a new brake hose waiting for me to pick it up at Napa after work tonite. So I'll throw that on this evening and see if that helps. I'm really crossing my fingers as after a caliper and hose replacement, remaining options aren't very cheap. Thanks again for the advice guys! :beerchug:

Many times the brake hose has a steel mounting bracket crimped around the hose on some models, especially Ford Ranger pick-ups. I have seen rust cause the steel bracket to swell and crush the hose preventing flow as discussed. Other than the rusty mounting bracket, the hose often looks fine.

I would suggest you need to bleed it more if a bubble of air is in the cool side that would do it , does the r side drag maybe the first question .

you can cut the power to the ABS if you think it is firing up ( for a test drive )it has happened ,usually you will hear it though it is sometimes tough to get the air out of ABS systems ,

Rotors are in very good condition ? it is a common problem for the pad to corrode the rotor then cause a rough braking . hope it helps

The drivers side is the only brake on the car that is dragging (for now, knock on wood :bash: :biggrin2:)

To cut the power to the ABS, I'm guessing you mean by just pulling the fuse for that subsystem?

And the rotors were replaced last time I did brake pads (a year ago, year and a half maybe?). They should be in good shape :beerchug:

I'm going to check for that, as well. After I started seeing the guys here suggest the brake hose, I did a little more looking into it and found that what you said in regards to the steel mounting bracket causing the issue to be easily confused/misdiagnosed as a collapsed line. Either way, new parts are going on shortly so I'll be able to cross another thing off the list and hopefully be done with this problem!

Even if the bracket is rusted causing the line to be pinched, the result is the same. It's not a "misdiagnosis" and the repair procedure is the same: Replace the line. The brackets are there for a reason.

Brake hoses are cheap. Replaced a million of them, mostly for the issue you have. Only, I usually check the caliper for binding, then just replace the line.:biggrin2:

It would take you over 40 years to replace a million brake lines by yourself,doing nothing but brake lines,24hrs a day for 40 years.
Gimmie a brake.

It might not have quite been a million.....

Probably at least 2 though.... :BlahBlah:

Well guys, looks like the consensus was right: the brake hose. Picked the new one up after work, replaced it, and took for a test drive. Drove for about 30+ minutes around town and country and didn't have an issue.

The real test will be setting the wife lose with it tomorrow, she tends to have a habit of finding a weak spot if there is one :biggrin2:

Thank u all for ur advice, I don't think I would have ever thought of of the brake hose. Always something new to learn :beerchug:

Glad things worked out for you. For many years caliper failure (sticking) was common. With the improvement of using composite material for the caliper's piston, calipers seem to last longer, and we tended to see more hose failures being brought in to the repair shop I just retired from.

:bigthink::LMAO1::High5:

Glad you got it fixed!:beerchug:

I have wondered what they are doing different with today's hoses or fluids
In the 50's 60's and early 70's hose collapse was very uncommon.
I started to see it a lot in the early 80's and it continues.
2 years ago I took my original hoses off my 1963 Impala.
I know they were original because I bought the car 6 months old.
The only reason I removed them was I figured it might be a good idea considering their age, and I was updating the single piston master to dual piston system for safety reasons.
I also have a '71 chebby peekup with the original hoses, no problem.

There is a fleet of 1/2 dozen s10 blazers in the family and all the front hoses have been replaced, as they have a hose mounting bracket that corrodes and pinches the hose, causing restricted piston retraction.
I think our lovely enviro rules, while well meaning ,cause problems.

We no longer paint or plate things especially undersides of vehicles, but I'll not get into that.
I'm sure we all could tell stories.
It is just a shame to see someones pride and joy that they paid $40,000
+ - start rusting, and having problems well short of 10 yrs old, especially in the rust belt states. :bigthink: