Have problems with my 1650. Trans not engaging.
 

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. I'm new to the cub thing, but I have managed to get a hold of three. A 1650, and maybe two 124's. Had one abandoned at the shop for maybe 25 yrs. and finally started working on it. Meantime, I traded for the 1650 and then a friend gave me another 124. Got this 1650 about 6 month ago. Finally got it to run and I parked it to wait until I got some implements to do some gardening.

Got everything ready and now my tractor is not moving. However the implements do lift. Checked the oil and it was really low. Added little more than a gallon. I just wanted to top it off to see if it would work. Will change all fluid and filter later.

Started it and worked the forward control valve forward and reverse and it finally moved forward. A little jerky, but that seems to have stopped. No reverse. I ran it around the yard a while and checked oil once more. Topped it off again. Moves forward but no reverse. After messing with the lever some more it sometime goes into reverse, but very slow and in a jerking motion. There's a 2" hump to get into the shop and it wouldn't reverse over it. No power at all.

The forward movement isn't great either, and I sometimes have to move the lever from forward to reverse and back until it "catches" and goes forward.It doesn't have power. Seems to have a lot of slop in the bracket that actuates the pump to make it go in gear. It stays in neutral and doesn't crawl.

I saw on youtube how to adjust so it stays in neutral, Don't think that's my problem. Anyone have one taken apart, where you could send me or post some pictures of how the brackets are supposed to look when they are in good shape...New condition, so I can compare to mine.

Here's my 1650

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psz33p2vtc.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psjexe9kzn.jpg

Plow and disk I bought

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psfryh7yed.jpg

Ripper I made

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps9jtfsn1n.jpg

Old Cub

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psbk25xcvz.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psbenlckue.jpg

I would change the filter. I didn't think it was possible for a filter to be so gunked up that the hydro wouldn't work, until a new to me 1811 would jump about 1o feet, stop, repeat--etc. Installed a used filter of a junk rear and problem went away. Of course I had a trans. full of water too. Changed oil and filter and hydro works great. I would spend $15 on a filter if it were mine.

As it happens, my wife has a Dr's appointment tomorrow and I'll be where there may be a cub parts place. I live out in the boondocks and have nothing here. I thought about buying a filter and gasket if I can find them.

Another problem, is the brake/clutch pedal? Don't know what it is, have a return spring. Mine seems to stay partially down and doesn't return completely. Anyone have a parts # for a spring if needed? Thanks, Joe.

It is a brake pedal. It also puts the transmission in neutral when depressed. It does have a return spring. It could be either 3 or 7 inches long. Probably dependent on serial number. Look underneath. It may be broken or disconnected. Maybe bungee cord it all the way up and see if that changes anything.

Search the forum, maybe the resource section,--I am pretty certain there is a list of acceptable filters you can pick up at a parts house. Check the list--just because the filter screws on doesn't mean it will work.

Regarding your spring and filter too, just go to Cadet's website and look up the parts--you can even buy direct from Cadet. There are some of our sponsors that carry a good selection of parts as well.

Think I took this picture of the serial number.
[IMG]http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps7tyf56wh.jpg[/IMG]

X10 on fluid and filter. You can't troubleshoot a hydraulic trans until you know it has good fluid and filter. It's "Step 1).

Wix 51410, Napa 1410.

Here's the official list of filters that cross:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=12

Long shot, but if someone was monkeying around and removed the charge pump and did not install correctly since it can be done, will not produce hyd. pressure. The pump swash plate is what's going to be giving you your forward and reverse inside the unit.

If the charge pump was on backwards, the lift wouldn't work, and the unit would not move at all. :ThumbsUp:

Makes good sense, Jon! I wondered if that mistake was absolute zero pressure, since the engine would still be turning the charge pump. Good to know! :biggrin2:

You are correct that the pump would still be turning,
but the intake and output ports would be swapped, so no sucky/pushy.:biggrin2:
But if the rotation of the engine/driveshaft were reversed, it would pump.
it also would go backwards the with directional control in the forward position and forward in the reverse position
-------I know, too much info.:bash2:
But there comes a time when one doesn't know which way to turn
My ship came in once, but I was @ the airport.:crap:

Ok, back to the topic, if you would do a search here on our site, and search
"Trunnion repair" you will see a lot of info on where it is and what it should look like, as it is possible that you have problems there.
As others have mentioned, filter/fluid is very important.
You mention you are "out in the boonies" so I think "rural" John deere has a filter for your hydro if there just happens to be one close by and yes it is the correct one.
Luck!

If your brake pedal is sticking partway down that may be your problem as far as going forward or reverse. My other bet would be worn linkage and trunnion. See what happens if you pull up on the brake pedal. Just patched up my 149 a couple months ago, it had the same problem with reverse. Trunnion springs were toast and the pivot points were sloppy. Got some machine washers from McMaster to shim things up and all good now. PITA to get them in place with the tranny in the tractor but I was able to do it with a set of right angle snap ring pliers. If you need some of the washers let me know, I had to buy about 10 of each size, only needed 1 of each.

Thanks for all the info....I replaced the filter with a wix 51410. Didn't change fluid as I had added over a gallon when I topped it off. If I can get it running better, I will then change fluid and install a new filter. The filter I took off didn't seem too bad and the fluid color was ok and didn't see any water present.

Tractor responded a little better but not much. It ran better when I held the brake pedal up. Still doesn't have a lot of power forward and very little in reverse. The hitch does lift.

I can see a lot of slop in my brackets and linkage. I checked the trunion and at first it seemed ok, but after I cleaned the crud, I can see the wear at the corners of the square. The small spring must be ok as it holds the outer cups in tension to the outside of the square. When I push on them there is resistance and it comes back all the way to the outside. The big spring has play as I can slide it back and forth seems like maybe a little less than 1/8".

The spring seems to be off center. Don't know if the bracket holding it is correct or not. Here's a couple of pictures of what I'm seeing.

Will be taking it apart to see if I can repair it.

Can you suggest a supplier of the parts I will need to order? Good service, parts, and price?? Thanks, Joe.

Corner wear
[IMG]http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psnww08nhd.jpg[/IMG]

Spring/bracket off center, Is this correct?
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...pskb3lcnnl.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psfqc8ewze.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...psi2nxldzh.jpg

I have another question....Should I be able to raise and lower the hitch (implements) while the tractor is in gear and moving forward? Mine won't let me raise or lower when I'm going forward. Just wondering? Thanks, Joe.

Have you looked at your relief valves? Are they manual or automatic? Manual ones have small buttons sticking out of the top. Look to see if they are stuck down if it has them. Still a good idea to change fluid with filter. Did you check the fluid level again? Does it sound like it's straining or cavitating? Fluid you can see May look good but doesn't mean that the rest is.

Your trunnion wear looks normal.

Also look for sheared pin in drive shaft, it's common. Make sure that you're linkage is moving as it should, not too much goes wrong with these other than what's listed

Don't know if they are manual or auto, Will check when I go to the shop later, or tomorrow. Thanks, Joe.

Look into the other stuff that was mentioned too, quite common

When removing the bracket holding the trunnion, I see a clip at the end of the shaft, is there a shear pin, roll pin, or key holding it? Once the clip is removed, should the bracket come out or does the pin have to be removed also?

If the pin is sheared, would the tractor still move forward? Sorry, but new at this. I have been doing a lot of reading, but still unclear. Thanks.

I can't remember if I bought my trunnion parts from IHCCW or directly from cub, but they're similarly priced. That'll take care of a lot of issues; mine runs like a dream after new fluid, filter, and the trunnion repair. I also worked on most of the linkages from the dash control to the trunnion.

The bracket that pushes the trunnion springs is just held on by the clip on my 169; I'd imagine it's the same on yours. It's much easier to mess with if you pull the seat and fenders off, especially to weld up the corners of that bracket coming out of the charge pump. Ideally you'd pull the axle/hydro out of the frame; you can decide which is more work for you as both are a pain.

If your pin in the driveline has broken there might be enough of a stub that catches so that it'll turn the pump until there's enough resistance, after which it'll spin the shaft in the coupler. If that's happening it'll likely get drastically worse as you keep trying it as that little nub gets knocked off. When you run your lift, is it connected to anything to put a load on it or is nothing connected?

Make sure those relief valves have full range of motion if they aren't the automatic ones so that they can pop all the way up. Mine had a lot of corrosion, and unless I gave the buttons a good tug with pliers they wouldn't seal inside and I had similar issues to yours. Pull them out, possibly sand around the button on top, oil them up and work them back and forth for awhile and you'll likely get them freed up pretty well. If not, there's a guy around that can rebuild them. Look up Machtech Direct, and I think it's cheaper if you contact him directly than going through the ebay account.

Thanks for the info...My relief valves are automatic.

Pulled the fenders/seat off and couldn't take the snap ring off because the pliers I have are too big. Will get some smaller ones and try again tomorrow. The first link below shows the plow hooked up and the lift works well. the second link shows the slop on the brackets and the trunnion wear. Hopefully this is my only problem and I can repair it and start using my tractor.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6nx6p1z5dk...52154.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6pxtqsdxyp...11508.mp4?dl=0

You have to remove the rear end to work on all the linkage. You can't take it apart in the frame. There isn't room. You can get the springs out, but you can't take the cam bracket out (the one held on with the snap ring) while the rear is in the frame.

I think your looking at the wrong area anyway. Jack the tractor up so it can roll without moving, run it and look at all the linkage while operating it. See of you can see where the loose parts are before you tear it all apart. You should be able to see a lot of it without it running.... but this way you can do both.

I did my 149 in the frame but it's a Bit-h. Think I used every 4 letter word and then some. Probably could have saved time if I pulled the rear. You need small right angle snap ring pliers to be able to get the snap rings off, getting them back on is lots of fun. :biggrin2:

Usually if the lift/lower is unresponsive during travel of the tractor, if is because of insufficient pressure/flow,
which goes back to possibly filter/oil contamination and/or relief valve.
We can see trunnion wear in the pix, but that should not affect the aux. valve :bigthink:

try swaping the relieve valves. maybe will move in reverse and not forward. guessing that you may have a couple of pump pistons bad in the hydro, this will cause the jerking????