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tinkerman 02-04-2017 07:15 PM

Future 102
 
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Ok if the pics post, you'll know what I mean
It's time to put Humpty Dumpty back together again

finsruskw 02-04-2017 08:44 PM

No it ain't!!
nothin's got any paint on it!!:biggrin2:

tinkerman 02-04-2017 08:50 PM

Oh, but there will be. Lots of yellow and white
Engines at the machine shop. It's been tore apart for over 2 years. Just trying to remember what's what and get started.:bigthink:

john hall 02-05-2017 12:03 AM

That's a lot of "where did this come from?":bigeyes:
Let just hope the last line of this one isn't "couldn't put Humpty together again":popcorn:

With all those parts scattered about you KNOW you have to make frequent posts of your progress. Now go blow some paint on it!:beerchug:

mortten 02-05-2017 12:11 AM

Don't worry. I had my Dad's 122 apart for 10 years in boxes and got it back together just fine. If you have a copy of the parts book it helps getting the right fasteners in the right spots.

tinkerman 02-05-2017 12:30 AM

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I've printed every manual I could find.(huge help). My son bought the mower from a neighbor a few years ago. He thought it would be cool to mow his grass with an antique cub. The engine was in bad shape and had been bored .30 over. We bought a parts tractor with a standard bore. We (mostly he) tore everything apart. In march of 15 my son was killed in an auto accident. Needless to say, I haven't been interested in much as of late. But I got it all out the other day, and I think he would want me to finish what we started. And I will

Dirty Steve 02-05-2017 06:43 AM

Sorry to hear of the untimely death of your son. Nothing would be finer than putting that 102 together in his memory.

cubcadet 02-05-2017 08:07 AM

So sorry to hear, I think finishing the cub would be a good idea too.

john hall 02-05-2017 08:38 AM

Very sorry to hear of your loss. As long as you have the motivation to do the work, this crowd will have your back with words of encouragement. Do keep us posted on your progress.

mortten 02-05-2017 10:30 AM

Good therapy.

tinkerman 02-05-2017 05:18 PM

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Just doin a little cleaning and sorting while waiting on block and parts and paint and...... ok question for someone... I took the steering gear box apart so I could clean it up. Gonna order new ball bearings and keepers, maybe side plate/ gasket. On the steering end of the shaft, looks like their should be a bearing? Am I correct? Austin parted everything up in bags, but didn't label the bags. I've caught myself a time or two saying why didn't you label this, then I hear his answer in my head... "why didn't you"? So..... anyway here's some pictures of the progress

johncub7172 02-05-2017 05:56 PM

I'm in to help when and where I can! Glad you decided on the model 102. They are a great garden tractor!!!

I'd like to suggest a 606 nice bearing in there? Maybe other more knowledgeable members can chime in on that claim. I'd also suggest, when you get that far, to check the front axle for any horizontal play between the frame's c-channel when turning left and right. Squeeze it together, then assemble. I have a nice wright up on the the detail, on my model 71, here at OCC.

I'll be in the bleachers rooting you on!:biggrin2:

Take care,

John

Rmowl 02-05-2017 06:31 PM

Glad you are undertaking this project, the 102 is a great tractor. Especially with the history yours has. What part of tn are you from? I'm frequently in East Tennessee

tinkerman 02-05-2017 07:32 PM

About 40 miles west of nashville

Rmowl 02-05-2017 07:48 PM

Right on, did a job out at land between the lakes near Clarksville couple years ago

mortten 02-05-2017 09:24 PM

If you're talking about the steering wheel end there is a little plastic bushing. You can use an old (or new) wheel bearing instead.

tinkerman 02-05-2017 10:04 PM

Yes, there's a metal collar on the steering end. Looks like something should be there to keep the steering shaft centered in the sleeve. Or maybe the steering wheel does this?

tinkerman 02-06-2017 08:31 PM

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Ok , I've got a few more questions. First back to the steering box. The thin plate on the side that has the lip on it, I'm assuming the lip goes into the housing, with the gasket between the bottom of the thin flange and the housing, right? Then the thick plate with the cam on it just rides on top of the thin flange? If I'm right so far, here's what I'm thinking, poor design!! Could I replace the gasket with a bead of aluminum silicone. This would last forever and keep the thin flange in place permanently. (And save $100). I got the thin piece flattened out really well but don't have the gasket. Now next question, I'm looking at the clutch and posted pics. I'm thinking new disc (discs) and throw out bearing? Can you tell from pics if I'm correct? I was trying to get the driveshaft off the differential and looks like pins thru the shaft holding it on, but dang I'm not having any luck at all pecking them out. Any advice would be appreciated

RedHawCadet 02-06-2017 09:30 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by tinkerman (Post 408654)
Yes, there's a metal collar on the steering end. Looks like something should be there to keep the steering shaft centered in the sleeve. Or maybe the steering wheel does this?

I believe this is the bushing your talking about.

RedHawCadet 02-06-2017 09:39 PM

The clutch disc is toast, might as well replace the disc and throw out bearing and have the pressure plates resurfaced. You will probably never have to do it again.

tinkerman 02-06-2017 10:07 PM

Thanks guys, I'll look for the bushing, if I don't find I'll use a bearing. As for the clutch, thanks for confirming it's shot!! Still trying to figure how to get the driveshaft off

Berwil 02-07-2017 01:34 AM

As far as the steering box gasket, you can use sill plate foam and cut your own gasket. I think the gasket is necessary vs silicone because it acts as a spring to hold the thin ring tight to the plate to seal out dirt. I have used the bearing in the top of the steering column before and will do it again, very smooth steering.

Bill

Alvy 02-07-2017 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinkerman (Post 408760)
Still trying to figure how to get the driveshaft off

You can leave the drive shaft in and change the clutch in the tractor. Hook the release lever linkage back up to the pedal. Support the drive shaft under neath with a block of wood and lock the clutch pedal down. Pound out the pin that's on the end of the driveshaft closest to where the engine is and slide the clutch components off that way to replace.

Other option is to roll the rear end and drive shaft assembly out the back and then support it while you beat the pin out of the coupler on the rear. The key is to support the area you are trying to get the pin out of so you don't damage a bearing or bend anything. The pins can be stubborn but using some penetrating oil and a good set of roll pin punches and some patience will get it out. And I'm sure you won't do this but please don't be tempted to cut a hole in the the tunnel cover to beat the rear pin out. Hope this helps

tinkerman 02-07-2017 01:29 PM

The tractor is totally disassembled and I've got the front end raised up with a come along, so access isn't too much a problem. I'm probably gonna separate the front and rear from the frame in order to paint everything. With that being said I'm gonna pick up a pin punch and use instead of the finish nail set tool I used last nite and try again. Thanks for the replys, don't give up on me. Probably be a few days before I get a chance to try again. Lots of busy

tinkerman 02-08-2017 09:49 PM

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Got the pin out. Pressure plates need resurfacing for sure. Throw out bearing shot. The teaser spring isn't broke. If you look at the pics there is tension on the pin in front of the teaser spring.do I just knock it out anyway? Then I'm gonna have to compress the main spring to remove the 2nd pin and get the throw out bearing out? Also the machine shop called today, they got the block bored at .10 over , which is good news. They've gotta grind the crank and install the new valves. Hope to have it back Friday. Now back to the clutch. I don't think that vertical plate that the driveshaft protrudes thru, (saw pic on another post) was ever on the tractor, gonna look and see if it in the parts pile. But I remember when my son and I were fooling with it in the beginning, I told him that it probably needed a clutch. All that was there was the "fork" hanging there, but we drove the tractor like that. I'll check for part and repost.

tinkerman 02-08-2017 09:51 PM

Ok looking at my own picture what I'm calling a fork is the vertical piece I saw in another post but it was never attached to the bracket at the top...hmmmmm

tinkerman 02-10-2017 09:38 PM

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Ok I made my own clutch spring compressor, I know it looks a little shady, but it worked. I'll probably do something different to reinstall. Cleaned and primed a few more parts. Engine block still not ready. One of the pressure plates is pitted pretty bad . Are these pressure plates as sensitive as ones on a vehicle? If I need a new one I'll get one. My goal is to have a "like new 102" when I'm finished. Can't wait to get all my parts and pieces. (And stop finding things needing replaced) but so far it's been an enjoyable task. Already looking on CL for another. I am going to need a deck and mule cage, so if I can get a whole tractor with a deck, it'll give me an excuse to do another. We'll see how this one goes. Does anyone have a place to buy urethane enamel at a decent price? Sherwin Williams quoted $418 for 2 qts yellow and one white with reducer and hardener, seems kinda steep.

drglinski 02-11-2017 03:34 PM

IMO wouldn't a bearing in place of a bushing work better? I've never torn into a steering box but wouldn't it make it steer better/smoother?

Terry C 02-11-2017 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinkerman (Post 409133)
Ok I made my own clutch spring compressor, I know it looks a little shady, but it worked. I'll probably do something different to reinstall. Cleaned and primed a few more parts. Engine block still not ready. One of the pressure plates is pitted pretty bad . Are these pressure plates as sensitive as ones on a vehicle? If I need a new one I'll get one. My goal is to have a "like new 102" when I'm finished. Can't wait to get all my parts and pieces. (And stop finding things needing replaced) but so far it's been an enjoyable task. Already looking on CL for another. I am going to need a deck and mule cage, so if I can get a whole tractor with a deck, it'll give me an excuse to do another. We'll see how this one goes. Does anyone have a place to buy urethane enamel at a decent price? Sherwin Williams quoted $418 for 2 qts yellow and one white with reducer and hardener, seems kinda steep.

Lot of us use CaseIH paint. No mixing and hoping it's right. I use their hardner and reducer too. I can't recall but maybe $70 per gallon.

Merk 02-11-2017 05:23 PM

Page 5 of my topic
Family Owned 70: Project Uncle Dick
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick
Has the procedure I used to rebuild the steering.

tinkerman 02-11-2017 06:41 PM

Thanks for the link to the steering. One of the problems with mine was the whole thin metal piece had come out of place, not just the gasket. When I reassemble It (dryfit) when I have the large nut loose enough that it seems to turn easily, the lip of the thin flange is barely in the housing. Probably why it wasn't in position to start with. That's why I asked about the silicone. To hold the flange in place better, but I see what your saying about the gasket holding pressure on it, albeit not much. I'll try again with the roller bearing. Looks like a good setup. As far as the paint I went to TS and got theirs with reducer and hardener. Quart of each on the paint. And ugh I'm typically an honest guy, but the kid at the counter rang it up and said $14 and some change, so that's what I gave him lol. If I don't like it, I aint got much invested so far

tinkerman 02-12-2017 12:18 PM

Brake pads
 
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Ok thought I was gonna spray the rear end and frame/front axel today.....but I remembered Austin was worried about the brakes not working. I told him no big deal, we'll fix em. So I ordered both pads, new o ring and gasket. Will wait on those and install first. It's already apart, so nows the time to do it. Gotta get another can of gunk and clean everything. Pads were COMPLETELY shot, but should be like new in a few days!

tinkerman 02-15-2017 07:46 PM

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Does anyone know what these are for? We had 2 engines at one time so it could be a duplicate part. One is missing a clip of some sort. Just cleaning the last of the small parts

mhasewinkle 02-15-2017 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinkerman (Post 409538)
Does anyone know what these are for? We had 2 engines at one time so it could be a duplicate part. One is missing a clip of some sort. Just cleaning the last of the small parts

That's a bracket for the choke cable on a K series. I have used it for a throttle cable also.

tinkerman 02-19-2017 12:26 AM

Got the new brake pads and o ring installed. They sent the rear differential gasket instead of the front. Guess maybe that's a sign I should replace it too.
The block WILL be finished Monday. Still waiting on my rod, crank bearings and governor gear. Ordered the clutch throw out bearing and teaser spring today. Also a new driveshaft as the other one was worn down really bad, I guess where the old throw out bearing was so bad for so long. Oh well, me and Austin said it would be like new when we finished and that it will be.

tinkerman 02-19-2017 05:03 PM

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A good day for painting. Thought I would try the tractor supply yellow on the engine parts.... well not to crazy about it. It doesn't cover very well, so I guess I'll follow the directions and put the 2nd coat on Tommorrow. I found a quart of ppg international white in urethane enamel that I forgot we bought for it. I think I'll pick up a quart of yellow, and spray the frame, console,hood, rear end, seat bracket etc. with the urethane.

tinkerman 02-19-2017 08:49 PM

Update on the tractor supply paint. I used the reducer and hardener and a spray gun and after moving parts inside, if it's cured good enough to lightly sand by Tommorrow, and re coat then I will say that for the money, it is a bright shiny paint and the color is a good match. However the 24 hours in between coats is a bit of a hassle

tinkerman 02-21-2017 08:44 PM

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Thought while I had a little downtime waiting on parts (and block...still) I'd share a little background about my son for those who may be interested. He was 21 years old when we lost him. He had been married for a year and a half. He had owned his own house a little longer than that.(not much) he was a third year apprentice in the plumbers and pipe fitters local 572 Nashville tn. (Followed in his dads footsteps) he had worked side by side with me for 2 years up until the week of his accident. He had just found out that they were expecting a baby, due in September. He loved hunting, fishing, and tinkering. Anyway I posted a picture of his baby girl. She'll be a year and a half in march. Her name is Austin. Didn't mean to ramble, just felt like talking about him. I sure was proud of him

Dirty Steve 02-21-2017 10:27 PM

She's beautiful. Can't imagine the pain you have been through. I am really enjoying your 102 rebuild thread.:beerchug:

tinkerman 02-25-2017 08:23 PM

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Ok, chomping at the bit to get started. Got all my parts EXCEPT the new pressure plates I am fixing to order AND the crankshaft back from machine shop. LAST Friday he said gonna try to get it today. THIS Friday he said gonna try to get it today. Maybe soon.
I also found out I'm not a painter lol. Gonna try to spread everything out and sand out the runs on the engine parts and go one more coat and call it quits. Waiting on one of my two neighbors to get his paint booth empty and let one of them spray the frame, rear end, console, hood and fenders, and that way maybe no runs. Got the brakes back together and pilot bushing in the 3 pin driver....... it's going


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