1050 Driveshaft Info
 

Anyone have dimensions for the driveshaft on a 1989 model 1050, looking for the overall length and location of roll pins along the shaft. A younger fellow in town is having lots of clutch, throw-out brg. issues and has replaced the driveshaft but I would like to confirm it's the right shaft before he gets to much further invested.

What condition are the ball bushings on each end of the shaft?

Not sure of the condition of the ball joint , This tractor was messed with by a few PO's some of which were not the sharpest pencils in the box. He had the first drive shaft break and they made another one using the old one for a pattern but I'm not sure the shaft that broke was original and correct for the tractor due to the manner things were cobbled on this machine as a starting point I need to verify the dimensions on the current drive shaft,thanks

cub
 

Hello,i had a 1050. I changed it over to a cast rear. What i remember from the alum rear is that the driveshaft was longer than any other gear drive. And had a longer teaser spring cup of about an inch and a quarter. Hope this helps. Mike

Thinking about it I'm sure this was also converted to the older cast iron rear by one of the PO's I'm not familiar at all with this one year only machine as my stuff is all narrow and early wide frame. I'm wondering now with the rear end being changed if the early wide frame drive shaft would be the one needed ?

i believe i am working on this tractor now. i am also in pa. same 1050, po did some rigging and current owner is having issues. can anyone shed some light to this driveshaft. ps this is a cast iron rear end in this tractor, m10 kohler, it is a spread frame cub cadet. model 1050. one year only tractor.

I just did the drive shaft on my 680. I would highly encourage looking at the Flange Assembly (Cub Cadet 903-1492) and Coupler Assembly Bushing Ball (Cub Cadet 941-3004). According to Parts Tree you can still buy a new driveshaft. Cub Cadet 738-3072.

This link should help. https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...utch-controls/

We know what a 1050 is. What do you need to know? You didn't ask any questions...... :Unknown:


WHOA there horse! Partstree is a horrible place to buy parts. More expensive than CC most of the time. Member Jeff in PA on this site makes all the driveline parts you can need. If he doesn't make the correct one for a tractor, he will! :beerchug:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875

You make valid point Jonathan. I am aware that Jeff makes parts, but at least by referencing Parts Tree you can find the part numbers and rough schematics that help. Plus, with knowing what it cost new from Parts Tree you have a point to negotiate on the fabbed part. I know Jeff does some good work, but its also good to know what the worst case cost would be. Sounds like Corey is working on the tractor for someone, so knowing what the parts totals could be will help the customer know if it is worth pursuing.:beerchug:

I ran a shop for 15 years......
I'd rather use CCC for the parts books and price point.
If Corey is working on the machine for someone else and can't figure out how to fix it on his own, he shouldn't be working on it.
If the "customer" doesn't want to fix a driveshaft issue over price, he shouldn't own a Cub. For the total price of all the parts from Jeff, it's about the cheapest main component to replace.

....and with that, Welcome to the forum Corey!

:biggrin2: