Cub 1541 Safety Swithces
 

I"m new here, just acquired a Cub 1541 which hasn't run in several years. Trying to get it to crank but am having a problem.

Think I understand the seat switches and have dealt with them for this testing process.

The service manual references below are all regarding Appendix G of the service manual.

I'm no electrician and am admittedly knowledge challenged when it comes to electrical wiring and wiring diagrams.

My experience with other brands of machines has been that there is normally a micro switch that's actuated with the hydro lever in neutral. There is a micro switch under the dash in the area of the hrdro but it's located ahead of the the neutral position. Doesn't appear that there is enough adjustment and where it is the hydro lever wont contact it when it's in neutral. I don't see a reference to this in the electrical section of the service manual?

I also understand these have a mow in reverse safety feature but don't see this in the electrical section of the service manual either (but I don't think this would keep it from cranking)?

The last piece is the brake switch (actuated with the brake pedal fully depressed. there are many wired going into it and I don't see any reference to it specifically in the service manual. I see a reference to interlock module.

Am I missing some info in Appendix G in the service manual?

Thanks in advance for any help. I've spent several hours on the site in the last few days and there is a wealth of knowledge here.

Bruce

So when you turn the key, no cranking of the starter?

Here goes:

From the key switch on the diagram, terminal "S", the flow of power goes through the "interlock" switch (brake pedal) on terminals 1 and 2. If the brake pedal is depressing the switch and it is good, it then goes through the PTO switch on terminals 1 and 2. Assuming the PTO switch is OFF and working, it then goes to the starter solenoid. The seat switch and reverse relay are not used for starting.

The tractor does not have a "neutral safety" on the hydro lever. That is what the brake pedal is for. With it depressed, it can't be in "gear". The reverse relay is a switch on the hydro lever coupled with a relay that kills the PTO when the tractor is in reverse. Seat switch must also be working for the PTO to come on. That series of tractor is a safety switch nightmare. :angry:

You forgot that you need to be in the seat for it to start if all systems are working properly. It will turn over but not start if you do not sit on the seat.

Not according to the diagram...... :bigthink:
As long as the brake switch is depressed, it should override the seat switch. No different than setting the brake to get off while it's running.

If you rtfm it will tell you that you have to sit on it.

Was the manual written by the Fonz? I guess Jon was wrrrrrrr...wrrrrrrrr....wrrrong.

:biggrin2:

According to the Cub Cadet Wiring Diagram, you do NOT have to be in the seat to start and run the engine..........as long as the Brake Pedal is depressed.

The brake pedal switch has a dual purpose. When the pedal is depressed: (A) It closes a circuit to allow the the starter solenoid to engage, and (B) Opens the the Kill Circuit.

Once the brake pedal is in the "relaxed" or normal position, one has to be in the seat to keep the engine running.

Thus, Jonathon is correct.

To the Op.

Clean all your grounds and check the connections at the ig. switch and starter solenoid, be sure it is grounded well.

On a side note...
Seems like all four if mine, 2 1541's and the 1862, 1860 you have to sit on the seat to start them,they will just crank if you do not sit on it. Do you think that is a coincidence?

Here is the pdf for it.First page says you have to sit on the seat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9j...ew?usp=sharing

Re: The two paragraphs for starting.

It DOES say the operator has to be in the seat. Maybe that is a CYA for the manuf?

In the description of the electrical path, no mention is made of it traveling to the seat switches or wiring.

I have an unmolested 1864 I'm working on now that does not require an operator in the seat to start. About a dozen other Cyclops of various models that are the same way.

Lew, I am thinking the ones you have have an issue with the brake switch. Which really isn't far fetched, as it's a dual switch and most all of that series safety features have been "worked on".

Here is the Cub Cadet Wiring Diagram, sectioned to only include the PTO and Start Circuit. It is simplified and Color Coded.

Getting back to what I said earlier, the Brake Pedal Switch and the Seat Switch......in the normal or relaxed position......causes a path (or short) to ground to kill the engine. IF........either one is depressed.... it opens the circuit and allows the engine to run.

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w...t.png~original

I understand that, But, your butt has to be in the seat and the pedal down on those models, must be a service bulletin for these early models as all the others 1440,1641 and even the 2284 I had did not have to have to sit on the seat to start.

Nice diagram!

Well Lew, there is only ONE wiring diagram and you are looking at it. If there was a alteration or modification, show us.

I do not have one.

Gents,

Thanks to all who took the time of share your knowledge.

After taking apart all connections in the circuit and cleaning everything I got the engine to crank. Checked for spark and it's nice and bright. Used some lighter fluid and got the motor to pop over several times. Next job is to clean out the fuel tank and get it to run so I can check out the hydro.

Thanks again...this is a great site for Cub owners.

See, we can disagree without flinging poo at each other! :beerchug:





Randy

Here are a few tips pertaining to the Cyclops series.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244

Thanks for the links.

It runs, hour meter shows 990 hours. Drained the gas, cleaned the carb and put some fuel line clamps on where needed and it starts and runs pretty well, no smoke. Have some governor adjustment to look at. Will see where this leads.

Tranny is great...was concerned, it has the Sunstand pump and I was concerned that it might have been towed but all is well with it.

Starter needs to be serviced....lots of growling when engaged.

Plastic grill mount will require some work but the hood and side panels are good.

What exactly is the governor doing or not doing? Just a FYI those engines are prone to governor failures leading to catastrophic engine failure.

Sam,

Thanks for the reply.

It was accelerating rapidly with little throttle movement, not running away, but RPMs were increasing too much for the amount of throttle movement.

I checked the governor (throttle wide open loosened nut clamping governor shaft and rotated the shaft). It moved less than a 1/4 of an inch but that was all it needed. It runs great now...good throttle response, no excessive acceleration, good idle.