New to me Cub Cadet 100
 

I introduced myself a few days ago when I picked up the 100. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=46708

My plan is to do a complete restore so I am looking things over to formulate my plan. I have some experience with restoring garden tractors, but this will be my first CC and I am very excited about it. First impression of this little tractor a very good. Thanks to some pointers from members here I have found a lot of things including some manuals.

For starters I have a couple of questions that I don't see referenced or I missed it.

The first is on the dash/ pedestal. I know I am missing he key switch which I believe goes in the lower hole (arrow). My questions are:

What is the upper hole that I have circled? Searching the internet I have seen others with the hole also but I don't know what should be there???

What is the red bulb? From the back it looks to be just an empty lens.

Frame near the brake clutch.

What is that that looks like a switch of some type? The rod running through it does move in and out.

Other 100 owners will chime in to verify but I'm going to say that upper dash hole not supposed to be there, light is add on, original key switch hole looks to have been enlarged, should be a D hole. However, the thing behind the brake may end up being an add on old school safety start or brake switch cable activated, looks interesting, maybe a dealer add on.

Hole in black part of dash is not for the key switch, it goes in the pedestal portion, across from the pushbutton for the starter. Note--don't use my pic for anything else other than the switch locations. That Cadet is more mixed up than a Johnny Cash Cadillac:biggrin2:

Here's my 100 dash and tower...

Looks like you have two large holes and two small holes to fill. :biggrin2:

100's are my favorite!!

You have a few extra holes and additions. (normal after 50 years!)

Several members have provided good pictures.. all you have to do is fill a few holes and add a few switches..:beerchug:

That thing on the side has to be something aftermarket

Keep us posted!!:biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:

Thanks guys I suspected as much, but wanted to be sure. Funny that I have seen at least two other pictures with that hole in the dash, one on a tower for sale on eBay and the other in a YouTube video on 100 restoration.

i've got a 123 with the ign switch moved up on top of the dash like yours.. I think the decal may be a bit mis leading to people.. it says ignition just like it says choke on the other side... so people drill a hole and put it up there to match the choke... that's just a theory.... but it sounds good!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1480294108

Nice seat John Is that OME for that year cub. :bigthink:

I suspect you are correct. I just can't figure out why they think they need two holes. I did see one picture someone mounted a toggle switch in the upper hole. Not sure what it was for however.

Well, it did come from a mid 60's bus so the year is about right. :biggrin2:

I believe that some people moved the ignition switch to the top of the dash to stop breaking the key off with their knee.

Good point. I have bent a few on my old RF Deere's getting on and off.

One other question. Did they all have the shield over the clutch as standard? I see as many pictures with as without.

Yes, they all had them.

Also not sure if your worried about it being the "correct" clutch cover or not? Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure that the 70's and the 100's had solid clutch covers.

Yes, the cover should be solid.

Yes it's one of those parts that most people take off for service and never bother to put it back.. that's why you see so many without:beerchug:

Thanks for the info on the cover. So I pulled the "switch" thing off the side of the frame ( see earlier post) and took a few more pictures.

I searched the internet and can't find anything like this. The writing on back appears to be CLUM Milwaukee

The mechanism is spring loaded and moves easily. I was able to get the two screws out and the inside appears to be brass or copper. The raised area between the two screws is non-conductive. I tried metering it but it always shows open so I suspect there is some corrosion inside.

My guess is a wire or something was attached at one end which probably went to the brake/clutch pedal and two conductive wires attached to the two screws that probably went in series to the started solenoid, so that the brake had to be pressed for there to be 12v to the solenoid.

A mystery to me. I was not sure where to post it to get most eyes on it. Not that I need it for my restoration, but it is interesting.

I pulled the drain/fill plug out of the tranny. Pretty close to empty. I guess no surprise as the wheels look wet. Probably need seals. I need to pull it anyway and look around inside. It is tough to get into 3rd gear. My question is what are people using for fluid. Owners manual says Hy-Tran or SAE 30 engine oil. Read a bunch of posts around with a lot of discussion. I used a web site called fluid finder.com and put in my model number and it came back with Traveller Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid, Granted This appears to be sponsored by TSC.

What are your suggestions? Not like this is going to be a heavily used tractor. I do have JD Hy-guard around from my JD's but I did read somewhere that HY-Tran and Hy-Guard had different characteristics.

Hygard, hytrans, or gear lube will be fine, I run a 80w90 in my 108 and haven't had any issues.

Can this be just a stop light switch? You have 2 wire holder just behind it who are bolt on the foot rest probably to hold the wire going under the tractor. I wonder if the brake/clutch pedal arm made contact with the spring loaded switch to open a circuit and close it when the pedal is pressed. What else this switch can control on a mechanical PTO GT?

I had a little time today so I decided to pick a project that could stand alone. Yesterday I removed the air cleaner assembly and bead blaster it, touched up a few more heavily pitted areas with bonds. I sanded those this morning and got a coat of primer on them. I probably won't put any finish paint on until spring.

Anyway today I undertook removing the front PTO. It wobbles so the bearing is shot. I was not having any success getting the set screws off, but with a block of wood and a mallet I was able to drive the assembly off the crank shaft with the bearing intact. The crank shaft appears to be OK.

Now I need to try and take it apart. One of the small tabs is missing on the fiber disk. Not sure if that is an issue or not. I looked up the PN 478 351 R1 and don't find any listed anywhere??? There appear to be some for other models but not the 100. It looks like the bearing is still around.

I may end needing to drill out the set screws. From what I can tell I only have the bottom ones. The ones with the points.

Any tips or suggestions on taking this apart or where to get the fibre disk would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

I said in the beginning of the thread that I'm thinking it was a clutch start or brake light switch. Definately was cable/linkage activated because you can see the little tab on the clutch/brake lever for it. I still think it might have been a dealer add on because of the "wire holders" as you said Gilles, they look like the ones that route the harnesses in our Cubs unless they were taken off near the engine and repositioned back there.

Lew what say you?

Edit: that switch is cool. The Clum switch company seems to date back to the early 1900's and some of their early switches are looking like they might be of some value.

Alvy, thanks for feedback on the switch. I have been looking around and it looks I can find the parts I need. It looks like using IH P/N's works better than what I have from the CC parts catalog that I have.

Just need to finish taking it apart to see what all I need. At least now that I have it off the tractor if I do end up needing to drill out the set screws I can use my drill press.

In the back of the pto where the bearing is, you will notice that the points on the set screws do not prick into the sides of the bearing.

The point actually goes behind the bearing. In theory, the tighter you tighten the screws the further they would push the bearing into the pto.

This probably doesn't really mean much to you EXCEPT, when you drill through the screws and the drill bit hits the bearing, if you aren't very careful, it will almost always break the drill bit.

I which case, you now not only have a stuck set screw, you also have a broken drill bit that you can't get out.

Also keep in mind that those set screws are HARD, your drill speed should be very slow and keep the hole being drilled full of coolant/cutting fluid.

I personally will spend tons of time extracting the screws and exhaust every effort to remove them rather than drill even one of them out.

One other word of caution, if you take the pto apart and try to drive the bearing out the back side without getting the set screws out of the way, you will break the casting rendering it useless, and expensive to replace.

Good Luck

Agree completely with Sam. Those set screws are HARD. Not only do you risk breaking a drill bit you risk destroying the threads. I had a couple that did not seem to budge. I filled the hole with a penetrating fluid, I believe I used PB blaster. I let it set for a day or two and finally using a new allen wrench got it out.

Thanks Guys I will take your advice and make every effort to get them out. I am not in any rush.

Well that was not as bad as expected. I had let it soak overnight with PB Blaster, but was still unable to move any of them this morning. I read about using a Torx bit slightly larger than the allen and driving it in. I tried that and two of three came out within minutes of getting a good bite into the allen. As it was those two had the double set screw. I used the Torx on the outer one and a regular allen on the inner. The last one only had one allen, the long pointy one. Did not want to move even with the Torx bit driven in. I filled the hole with PB blaster and heated it for about 3 minutes with MAP and tried again. Still nothing. Got my impact hammer with a pointed bit so that I was only hitting the center of the allen and ran that for a minute or two to try and break the bond. Drove the Torx bit in again and it backed out without any problem.

Also got the bearing out without issue. It is very wobbly and feels like gravel turning it.

Always better to be lucky than good !

Now I need to take an inventory of parts needed to rebuild it.

Is there a manual somewhere that describes setting this up properly? I see that there is a gauge that comes with these rebuild kits. Also putting this back onto the crank shaft? I found a service manual, but it only describes the 70 and 100 chassis, it does not get into PTO.

I assume that the bearing needs to go on the crank first since that was suppose to stay when I removed the PTO. Just wondering how far onto the shaft it goes. Maybe it is obvious.

Forgot to mention the Torx bit was a T20

Everything you need to know about setting up and adjusting the pto will be in the service manual (download it from the tech section).

The bearing needs to be flush with the end of the shaft. If the new bearing comes with a snap ring in the bore, take it out and throw it away, it isn't used in this application.

When you go to put this back together, slop a little anti-seize on the engine shaft, inside of the boar of the pto and some on the set screws. You never know when you may have to take it back off again, this will also make it easier for the next guy who has to rebuild it.

The chassis service manual for the 70/100 (that's this one)
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/70-100%20Service%20Manual.pdf
doesn't say a lick about pto's

Look at this one for pto info around page 2-41.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Thanks Ironman. I thought I was crazy. I read through the 70-100 manual twice.

Another newbie question or two.

In my previous experiences I found that sometimes it was best to have a parts tractor in stead of looking for parts one at a time.

So:

From what i have read my 100 is considered a Narrow Frame. It looks like a 70 would be almost exactly the same except for the 7hp engine.

What other model numbers would have complementary parts? I see 71,72, 73 out there as an example. What about any parts off an original ? Specifically the fenders. ( Please understand...I would not take apart an original to get parts for my 100. I do respect these old tractors and do my best to resurrect them. I am talking about when I see parts listed)

Is there a compatibility chart somewhere or a way to search a P/N to see what models it is used on?

I rebuilt the Starter/ Generator as it was noisy. It was charging OK. I replaced the brushes and bearings and cleaned the inside with compressed air. I put it all back together and it starts great and also charges, but... and I did not test this prior to rebuilding, but I suspect it has always been like this. At medium rpm it charges a little over 14 V but at hight RPM it seems to increase and gets up around 15V. Seems high to me. I have read about checking and adjusting V/R and it seems that the consensus is better to replace it.

What do you guys think? I always thought that 14.5 was kind of tops for output. Am I being too picky or would you suggest replacing the V/R?

Sounds like everything is working well but v/r needs to be adjusted. There are movebale tips inside of it. There's a procedure in the service manual on how to do it, I would adjust it.

Just drive it around half throttle. :biggrin2:
It does seem high though. Not too far off though so a slight adjustment and you are golden. I've never had one do that so I'm no expert. Usually the ones I get won't charge and I woose out and buy a new one.

Thanks Guys, I will look up the adjustment and give it a try. Will be a bit now as I pulled it off the tractor again as I am moving on with my winter project to clean things up, do some priming to be ready to paint in the spring.

I Finally had some time to finish pulling the tractor apart. Everything came part fairly easily except the front axle pin. Tried heat and PB Blaster , but without luck so I decided to cut it. I have a spare axle and pin.

After I got it out I was able to press it out with a 20 ton press and noticed a couple of things.

Looking to learn more about these older Cubs.

First the other pin I have has a recessed area to accept grease and secondly the other axle I have has a grease zerk. The PN for the axles is the same except for the R# with the one with the zerk having a higher number.

Do the R# stand for revisions?

Was the original axle pin on the 100 solid like mine or did someone swap out the original for a piece of rod?

Thanks

The R does stand for revision. The 70 and 100 had the solid pin with no grease zerk. Most guys find that the pin is seized into the axle. Mine took heat and a 20 ton press to remove as well.

Thank you. Are all the pins the same length? Looking at places that sell them they seem the same from 70 on.