Working on the 1050
 

It's time for the 1050 to get it's turn, I've been mowing with it for the last two months and it's developed a bit of a vibration when the drive clutch is engaged. I removed the deck and mule drive and pulled the engine to discover the holes in the clutch disk are worn to the point that it locks up off center, pretty sure that's my issue as the rest of the parts all look good. I got a new driveshaft from Jeff but it turns out the original has zero wear on it, I will most likely install it anyway since I already have it. I've had a mwsc Kevlar disk hanging on the wall for two years I'm gonna throw in along with a new throwout bearing.

I'm undecided about what to do with the rearend, sometimes when I put it into 2nd it acts like it's stuck in two gears. Anybody have any suggestions on what might be causing it? I have a cast iron rear sitting here I could throw in but given the rarity of the tractor I'd rather not. While it's apart I plan to switch the lift handle out for one off a parts tractor, the one on the tractor has a weak spring. I also plan to add a spring assist since this tractor will be going out to my mother in law's for the winter.

Keep us posted on your progress,my guess on the tranny it is prolly has a bad shifter fork thingy

I agree with Lew, but will ad that if it feels like it is stuck in two gears at once, it's likely the shift fork on 1/R.

Is your 1050 tranny noisy? Mine has always been since I bought it and it was noisy when Ryan had it. (Pointed it out to him on a video he posted one winter.) I'm pretty sure I know what it is, just wondering if you have the same issue.

Nice work!

The trans has a real slight whine but that's it, I pulled the dipstick and the oil looks like it has water and rust in it so I will be pulling the cover to clean it out.

There always seems to be more to do than what you expect when you tear into a tractor! One thing leads to another. Keep up the good work an keep us posted!

The whine in mine was really loud until I installed the creeper. It's still there, but not as bad. I think the input shaft was made just a tad too long, and there is thrust load on the input shaft. When you put the drive line back in, make sure that there is a little clearance with the shaft. Mine was wedged in tight. If it isn't tight, the whine may go away. :beerchug:

May just be that it needs an oil change too...

Looking forward to your progress, Tim!

Good work Tim. :beerchug:The inside frame rails look clean, so the engine isn't a seeper? Or did you clean them already?

I cleaned it about a year ago when I got it, the engine is a little slimy but I think it's mostly from the breather.

Looking good!

Well that's good, easy enough fix right there.:beerchug:

Got the clutch all back together on the 1050 and the vibration is all gone, here's a pic of the parts before they were installed. Once I got that back together it was time to pull the cover off the rearend, as you can see the fluid definitely had some water in it and came out like molasses. I got it all cleaned out and filled it with fresh fluid, I still have a few more things to do but that's all the time I have today.

:beerchug: Sure is some nasty looking rear end oil. You'll have a fine tractor for sure! :beerchug:

Yea, I knew it was bad but didn't expect it to come out like peanut butter.:biggrin2:

Coming right along. Two questions for you. Is the clutch driver factory six pin? And, does a driveshaft from Jeff in PA to Tim in PA take one day or more?

The driver is 3 pin, the clutch is from Midwest super cub and they put 6 holes in them. I usually get parts from Jeff in two days..

Thanks for the update, Tim.

Yup er, looked like it was past due for a rear fluid change. Should be good for another's life time...:beerchug:

Since theres no hour meter on the 1050 I have no idea how many hours are on it but I suspect it's low hour based off the driveshaft. As you can see there's not a bit of wear on the shaft from the throwout bearing. The clutch also looked good with the exception of the holes being a little worn, the spiral pins also looked like new. the shifter also seems a bit better after the fluid change, its got me wondering if the molasses like lube just wasn't reaching the top of the trans to lube the shift forks.