My First Cub
 

I picked up a 149 a few weeks ago. Everything seems to be in working order (except the missing headlights). i have a 44" deck, a front blade, and a tiller with it (I am missing the PTO belt for the tiller). Hopefully in another week or so I will have a yard to use it in. I think my current yard would take longer to mow with a tractor than a push mower.

Based on the serial number I think it was built September 1972.

:Welcome2: nice score on the 149, I'd also like to find one someday

Welcome to OCC! You have a nice 149.

Welcome to OCC! The bottom part of the grill is from a quiet line.
Not knocking your machine just letting you know. 149s are workhorses!
Great tiller machines.

Yeah, l Realized that after I bought it. Eventually I may try to find the right part, but for now it is staying.

Welcome to OCC, and congrats on your first Cub Cadet.:beerchug:

I going to go ahead and guess this isn't assembled correctly.

Correct it is not assembled correctly. If I did not know how to assemble the pto correctly I would go to the tech section and download the repair manual and follow those directions.

It does appear all of the pieces are there for your PTO and better yet, it is NOT a safety PTO from 1974!!! Congratulations on your 149. I own two of those and they are an excellent "go to" tractor. Plenty of HP and hydraulic lift. Glad you scored it!!!

Cub Cadet 123

I have the manual on my phone. This is the as purchased condition.

I'm not sure what 'safety PTO' is, but if it is anything like a 'safety gas can' I think I'll be thankful I don't have one.

I didn't really appreciate the hydraulic lift until I started plowing with it. I can't imagine plowing with a manual lift.

As already posted your pto appears to be all there but not in working condition. It may only need to have all the parts in their place. Also remember that there are or should be two allen screws in each of the three holes. One with a rather flat end and the other with a pointed end. Both must be removed from each hole to remove the pto.

Is this the 'safety' design? It looks annoying.

Indeed it is.......government regulations in 1974.

Cub Cadet 123

149's are also my "go to" work horses.

Be sure to replace the allen screws with Brand New Ones when you put it back together and put a little anti-seize on them when you put them in.

I already picked up new set screws, and living in an area where they use salt on the roads most things get anti-seize.

I got all of the set screws out. They actually came out fairly easy once I got the dirt out of the sockets so I could get the wrench in.

Are there any tricks to getting the clutch off after removing the set screws? I tried driving it off with a block ad wood (rotating every hit) with no success. I'm thinking about picking up a slide hammer.

There are two sets of set screws, once you get the first set out there is another set underneath.

There is a locking collar on the backside of the clutch. Two more set screws to loosen and rotate the collar to release the bearing.

I was under the impression that you had to remove the clutch from the bearing to be able to access the lock/set screw to remove the bearing.

By all I meant 6. 3 flat point and 3 cone point. I probably should have specified.

Sorry I misread what you were asking.

The slide hammer worked to get the clutch off.

Is it normal to be able to turn over the engine by grabbing the outer race of the clutch bearing? Looks like I'll need a replacement.

Next step tear the clutch apart and see what else needs to be replaced, but first off to a movie with the wife (grandma is watching the kids).

No, it's not. Time to replace.

Congrats on a date night, we get them rarely, grandparents help out a lot in that department.

It looks like based on my assembly and the manual that the 149 should have two friction disks, but all the kits I see appear to only include one. Should it be two disks? Are there sources for two disk kits or the disk alone?

Are there any problems running the engine without the pro clutch installed? It doesn't seem like it would cause any problems.

Also, at what point should the friction disks be replaced? The clutch plates have worn into the surface of them about .020".

Is there anything special about the dowel pin (IH-19837-R1) that pins the driveshaft to the flange on the engine? Mine is broken and from what I can tell it appears to be a standard 1/4x1.5" dowel pin. Also, is there anything else I should check before replacing the pin.

Jeff in PA makes a gnurled one as if there's any wiggle room and the press is gone the pin will shoot out. That's the one I would get if you're not replacing the drive shaft. Also check the coupler for it being knotched out where the pin rides as most are

I should quit looking at this thing. Every time I look at it I find another problem.

I have never seen one of those break like that. No big deal to weld it. :beerchug:

Yeah, the biggest challenge is that the welder hasn't made the move to the new house yet.

Should I try to add material on the inside to support it, or just close up the gap and weld?

It does seem an odd place for a crack.

It looks like I may be in the market for a mower deck. The spindles all feel gritty and have some play, and it looks like a PO patched a few spots with fiberglass mat.

I'd pull it together, weld it and add a plate on the back side.

"V" the broken area, pull it back into place and weld it up. That way you still have weld when you grind it smooth.

How much play is acceptable in the ST-475 spindle bearings? Once I cleaned them up and put some fresh grease in them they run fairly smooth, but there is a little play in them.

I have one with more play than I would like, but based on replacement cost, I find the play acceptable. :biggrin2:

Bill

The third time out to plow the driveway last night didn't go so good.
About 10 minutes in there was a loud bang, the dipstick shot out and the engine stopped. This afternoon I opened it up and found the mess I expected.

I assume that a block with the pieces shown missing from the cylinder is only good as a boat anchor.

On the bright side I got the headlights to work. The switch needs to be cleaned or replaced.

Ouch, looks like you got all the goodness out of that one. Rip it apart and post in the Kohler section maybe the Kohler gurus have better news.

So I ended up getting most of a k341 and rebuilding it. It ran today on the bench for the heat cycle to finish torquing the head, and I got it on the tractor. I still need to see if I can find the right shrouds for the top of the motor and the starter side. I also need to get a longer belt for the starter, the dipstick tube is in the way to swing the starter in for the belt I have. Hopefully Monday or Tuesday I will have it out mowing.

Great score!