1872 just brought home
 

I picked up a local 1872 this morning. They seem to never show up less than 3-4 hours so when Todd posted this one in the EBay/Craigslist section, I jumped on it. I was the first to call and he lives in Nashville we played phone tag this week. I was not sure it was going to go through but it did. It was 30 miles from me.

So far it needs the fuel system cleaned, it seems to be running lean. It got hot fast with just running no load on a fast idle. The next problem I found and I saw it when I bought it, was the drive line. There is a wobble at the back. I just found that it at the rear coupling where it connects to the input shaft. I am in the process of trying to get it apart. I hope there is not much damage to the input shaft. I will post some pictures in a few minutes. Thanks in advance for the help I might need.

Well, the 1872 is nice tractor but that driveline worries me. I recently bought an 1872 hydro pump and coupling on ebay for about $400 with shipping. So good luck with that..:beerchug:

It bothers me as well. I have a spare hydro, I just wasn't planning on needing it so soon.

Pretty sure JeffinPa makes those couplers. PM him. They won't cost you $400.

Yep, I was thinking he made some that have more meat in the back if the shaft is worn too bad.

I will pm him, when I get it disassembled.

I was lucky to buy an 1872 hydro shaft only from a member here for $40. Need to rebuild my old hydro someday..:beerchug:

Looking like you did great still even if those issues are a little spendy. You got one heck of a super. Good job getting it and thanks to Todd for the assist.

I did Ok, I will still be good. I was planning maybe selling this one., but we will see. I hate to sell them, it is a lot more fun buying them.

Allen Cecil has a new rear coupler for sale.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=44686

Super Hydros have a different output shaft from the GT hydros so keep that in mind.

Yes, the one I bought was from a 1872, but it needs to be resealed before I use it. My plan is to have one on the shelf, resealed and ready to go, but I am not there yet.

Here are a couple of pictures when I got started working on her.

Congrats on your 1872! As Sam said, I have a rear coupler. I will make you a deal on, if you're interested.

Congratulations on your 1872!! Kind of nice having them somewhat close to you, especially if it does not happen very often. A seat with armrests will make the ride all the more sweet!!!:beerchug:

Cub Cadet 123

The seat with arm rests was nice. I only drove it a short distance, but the arm rest made it so much more comfortable. Just the way the seat is made looks like it was a little pricy when it was new.

I have never removed the pin in the input shaft before. I have looked at the service manual and it does not look difficult. I do not want to mess anything up, so what is some tips y'all have? I had to order a new set of punches, as mine have disappeared.

well, the manual says to use a jack to put support behind the shaft before pounding the pin out ..depends on how much force it takes to move the pin. :beerchug:

use a small ball peen hammer instead of a sledge hammer ..with light taps..

I'm glad you got it!!:biggrin2::biggrin2:

Cause I sure was eyeballing it hard when Todd posted it!:beerchug::beerchug:

He got several calls on it and I called first so he let me have first chance at it.

Does anyone have a lead on the spiral pins? I have searched the forum and cannot find where they can be purchased.

here`s 1 place..
http://ihccw.com/drive.html

Cub cadet 1872
spirol pins
915-0125 (715-3005) 3/8-1/3/4
715-3004 1/8-1.125

I found these on McMaster Carr's website. Has anyone else used these? Looks like they will work.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#91598A262

wow..I never have but looks good to me..just cant believe it`s .09 apiece compared to $4.00 apiece on cub sites. :biggrin2:
They also have those in Extra strength steel and stainless. Quite a selection.

Where do you think they take the expensive one they sold you? McMaster is the place of choice for any kind of fastener, you only need to know how to "surf" their gigantic catalog.

I did not buy the 4.00 ones. I am going to get a bag from McMaster Carr. :biggrin2:

I like to support Cub dealers and in particular our sponsors but that price difference is ridiculous. I checked the shear strength of the expensive brand name SPIROL standard duty pins and they are also 1400 lbs. like these generic coiled pins ..

I bought NOS coupling from a member and got it today. Here is a picture. Should it have the brass bushing in th place of the nylon looking bushing? I do not have to old one off yet, I am going to tackle that in the morning.

I just went and looked on mine. I could see enough of the brass bushing to know this one will not work without modification.

They aren't "generic". McMaster Carr is "THE" place for industrial hardware. Supplying machine/mechanic shops since the early 1900's. (Founded in 1901.)

Yes, lots of members here use them instead of getting them from CCC.


The driveshaft should have a ball bushing in it. You can also source those from places other than CCC. You can buy them direct from Triangle MFG, the people who make them for CCC:

http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/produ.../ball-bushings

I never seen one like that. J-Mech is correct it should have the brass ball bushing in it. If you go to the Triangle MFG site look up part# HE1410P. That is the one you need. They have a minimum order and I think I get around 35 at a time when I do. In fact, I'm getting a little low and need to place another order soon. I think I have around 10 left so PM me your address and I'll send you one for free.

I wonder if MTD as they have been known to do went to plastic to replace the ball just to save a few cents. :bigthink:

I am not sure, but it would not surprise me. I am going to take out the plastic and install the correct bronze bushing.

If it was me as long as the ID in the plastic is the same as the OD on the shaft I'd give it a try.

Just dropped 2 of at the Post Office and they say you should have them on Monday.:beerchug:

I have not done a test fit yet, but I will see.

Thanks, Todd, I own you, 2 times. :biggrin2:

I got the coupler off, it is shot. The new one fits sung. I just checked the driveshaft fitment to the new coupler and it is too loose. The bushing has to come out and the correct on installed.

Another question, the spiral pin broke off inside the shaft. What is the easiest way to remove the rest. I am thinking use a small drill bit and then a small punch. What have y'all used?

I recently replaced the shaft and couplers on my 882. I highly recommend the punch that McMaster sells. $10

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pin-punches/=13esbt6

You will just break the drill, use a punch of the proper size and move on.:beerchug:

Support the shaft before you go and beat on it.