Lost directional control
 

I got about half the lawn mowed and then, lost directional control at the wheel. quick inspection found this:bigeyes:. I am pretty sure it was welded once because the welding on the inside of the arm, but I think it originally has a roll pin. I just got a welder, this will be my first repair, if I get the top part out of the arm.

Attachment 76267 Attachment 76268

You've got nothing to lose by trying to weld it but I can't see it working unless you're really good.
A quick search on eBay got this....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IH-Cub-Cadet...8AAOSwXeJXeFWj

You need a spindle, not a repair job unfortunately. I've worked with quite a few professional welders and all of them would back away from trying to weld that, its just not going to hold. Even if it were "V'd" out and put in a jig for welding, the concentricity between the 2 pieces of shaft would probably be out so much you couldn't get it back through the axle. Ask yourself this, what if it next time it breaks the front end makes a sudden dart toward a building, ditch, curb, parked car----you may have a lot bigger problems. Not trying to be pessimistic, but welding this up as a satisfactory repair isn't very likely.

That is exactly what I need, thank you.


You are probably correct, its been welded once before like that, and I always wandered how I was going to fix the spindle if I wanted to take it apart.
The picture of the ones on ebay have the arm solid on top, was the one I have drilled through to get the weld on top of the spindle to the arm?

Yes, The top arm is solid on top, not drilled though. The top of the spindle shaft has a hole drilled in it as does the top arm. Top arm sits over it and spiral pin holds them together. Spiral pin is missing in the ebay pics

Save the shipping and walk over to Jeffs and get one

I got the new parts about 4 blocks away:biggrin2: I am wandering if anyone else has had this trouble and what the best solution to install the pin. Should I use a grade 8 bolt, spirol roll pin, or spring pin.

Even though the spindle to spindle arm had been broken and welded before, I think that maybe the bolt in the quick attach frame made interference for this to break :bigthink:. I have always put the front bolts in the quick attach to prevent wear on the pins. So I just installed the front bolt only, but sometimes I've had problems getting them loose because the bolt or nut spins on the inside:bash2:.
Anyways here are some pictures of the axle rotated clockwise showing interference with the bolt and then the final solution. this way it won't hit again.
Attachment 76460 Attachment 76461

I too, like to put the bolts in to make it nice and solid, especially when using a plow. If/when I have the motor out, I tack weld the nuts to the inside of the frame, even on non-QA tractors. Makes it soooo much easier. Don't understand why I/H didn't do it in production?

A new Member (Gregory) post this link lately: http://www.spaco.org/loose.htm

You still need a spindle of course! Here Gregory tractor picture:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/a...1&d=1468702954

And his 70 restoration thread:http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=45048

Thanks guys, I did get a used spindle and arm, the holes were pretty solid and they came with a spring pin. I'm up and running and got the lawn mowed yesterday afternoon.:beer2: If the hole get warbled out, I'd probably use the kit from SPACO, thats a pretty cool idea.
As for the tacking the nuts in they probably would have, but then the front casting has interference with them or the frame rails would have had to be spread out to get the casting in. I was going to tack them too.