1440 for the blower
 

I got a little crazy and picked up a 1440 for the 451 blower, which the seller would NOT separate. It was a long drive from my house and I probably have too much in this project already, at least according to my wife. :BlahBlah: It came with the spring assist for the blower, the forked cast lift piece, tire chains, deck had been replaced with a very nice 42 or 44 inch deck, the original roached GT46 inch deck, and a pretty nice 3 bag grass catcher. Everything but the blower will be for sale eventually. Bought it with a miss in the engine. PO said it was a burnt valve. I am no engine guy. I had complete tunnel vision on the blower. The tractor drove on the trailer, always a good sign. So the engine journey begins.

Found the miss under the right valve cover, it was a bent push rod. Tins are packed pretty bad. Must have gotten hot. Found the exhaust valve guide pushed up out of the head. So I jumped down the rabbit hole to pull the engine, pull the head, and fix it right. Not sure what "right" is..... Dealer said complete kit with new head, gaskets, valves is $225. Did not want to spend that much. Need this running and gone. Way out of my comfort zone. Open to suggestions and tales of experience with this issue.

I would just get a used head and push rod from me and move it down the road.

I had one like this. I smacked the top of the valve stem with a hammer and the retainer drove the guide back down. Straightened the push rod and put it back together. Ran great until I shut it off and started it up a week or so later. Same thing. So I did it again and got the same results.

The engine is now in my shop awaiting on a head change off a engine that had a broken rod.

Not a good idea to spend $225 on an old engine like that.

1440's are great little tractors! I'd do like Lew said.. Put a used head and a pushrod on it and go with it! :beerchug:

Good luck... looks like you got a nice blower! :beerchug:

Congrats on the thrower Steve:beerchug:
I'd go with the Master of Lew plan. If he likes you, he'll treat you right:bigthink:

For less than $150 you could get a brand new complete head and push rods and just bolt it on. I guess it would be cheaper to find a used one but how would you know it is any good? Looks like a pretty nice Cyclops.

Thank you all for the advice. I spent a snowy, cold as he!!, windy April day working on the Briggs engine. I knew there had to be reason/s why this engine was soooo cruded up. The seal under the PTO has issues. The fill tube seal is roached. And there is no doubt the crank seal under the fly wheel has to be gone also. My local NAPA store sells a product called Triple Blessing which is a potent acid cleanser. I went to town on this engine today. I had it completely ready to pull yesterday. I picked it out this morning, set in a wheel barrow, and trucked it to my basement door. The old coal boiler had the basement at 76 degrees. Spent the day degreasing the "good" side of the engine. Pulled the PTO and cleaned up that side. I hope that seal is replaceable? I did not pull the fly wheel. Then cleaned on the jug below the bad head. It is definitely cylinder ONE. I don't have a clue what I am doing but I did not spend any extra cash yet. I am taking the members suggestions to weigh my options. Seems there are Briggs parts available from sources other than my dealer for cheaper. I don't consider the clean up done yet. I had to walk away to spend some time pulling kids on sleds and making snow angels.

Some of the after pictures. Wish I could have power washed it all but temp never made it above 30 and the dang wind blew 15-30 mph all freakin day.

Yeah a preasure washer would have made short work of it.:biggrin2:
BUT I'm sticking with the suggestion of going with the parts from Lew, "thinking" it'll be money saved for something else... Your ball, your choice.:bigthink:

How hard is it to get the big nut off the blower end of the crank? I suspect the seal is out under the blower on this little piglet. Want to inspect that and the top of cylinder #1 before I order any parts. :Detective1:

Anyone have a source for free service manual on these Vanguards?? Model number 294447-0445-01

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Proper size socket and a 1/2" impact and zip off it comes.

When it's too cold for my pressure washer I go to the local car wash and make a mess of there bay. LOL.

you say roached out gt 46" deck??? how much do you want for the 3 aluminum spindles off of it???

I sent a PM to you.

Pulled the head off the dead hole. Pretty nasty. I believe that indicates a head gasket failure as well?

Steve

Let me know what your plans are for this critter. If you plan on keeping it or just want it gone. :bigthink:

I'll send a PM, Sam. I just built a puller of sorts to get the fly wheel off. I am assuming a tapered crank, right? :Huh: Put some good pressure on it and wailed on it for a while with a rubber hammer. No budge. I left the pressure on. I do not have a service manual.

My puller idea is not working. The reason I was thinking it off is to check the seal under the flywheel. Any suggestions? I did just notice the bolts have no hash marks on the head. Better get some higher grade bolts in there. When I had both bolts super tight I was wailing away with ball peen hammer on the flat stock. I used rubber hammer on the outside of the cast flywheel. I sprayed the crank with PB blaster. My only heat source here at the house is one of those yellow MAP gas hand held torches.

I've taken Vanguard flywheels off by simply putting a light pry on one side of the flywheel and tapping the end of the crank with a hammer.

If you try this, run the crank nut out flush to protect the threads and don't pry too hard, you might crack the aluminum.

I've used a puller as well. Never had any problem getting the flywheel off. They came off easy.

Looking at your puller again. Try running the bolts in tight and then loosen the big nut against the puller and see if that will pop the flywheel off.

Steve, get you one of these. I never had one I couldn't pull off with it.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...ntent=25989081

Attachment 73640

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll pick up one of those pullers and some higher grade bolts and give them a try tonight after work.

$13.99 and a trip to Harbor Freight yielded a puller. 3 minutes later- fly wheel popped loose. Ended up with the impact on it. Thought for sure the puller would break. ALOT of pressure was exerted. Now more clean up.

Well done Grass Hopper! :biggrin2: :beerchug:

Edit: The rear seal looks OK to me.

looks like a leaker to me.I would remove the stator,then the shroud,then the starter,BTDT

As Lew said. Stator, shroud, and starter off. Degreased for about an hour. What is the best way to clean up the stator?

Blow off with compressed air,

Do not use solvent, it will destroy the coating (insulation) on the winding's. Water worked for me, if not, some soap.

Yeah I used a bucket of water and Simple Green, then blew it off with the air compressor. Came out like brand new.:beerchug:

Can anyone suggest a time proven way to decarbonizing engine block, head, and valves? And thanks for the tips on cleaning the stator!

Kids had activities tonight. Only got a few minutes to work on the engine. Made the decision to pull the head from the other side. It looked like the head gasket was compromised. The valve guides were in place and push rods are straight as an arrow. I grabbed the carb cleaner and began "decarbonization" process. Also ordered some parts for this engine today. Don't tell Mrs. Steve. Fur is going to fly when she sees that bill.:NailBite:

Looking good Steve.

Good work Steve:beerchug: What did you use to clean it?
A soft brass wire brush would work for some of the carbon.

I have used Marvel Mystery oil and left it soak overnight or days. Then a toothbrush or small soft brass brush.

On the stator, blow off and a well used tooth brush gently

Did some more clean up tonight. I believe the block and pistons are good enough. Got a good start on the head. Need some hints on how to handle the valves. My dad says they need to be removed and use lapping compound. That will be a first for me. Advice is welcomed and appreciated, as always. Oh, used carb cleaner and S.O.S. pads. Took a while.

Big improvement right there.:beerchug:

Lapping the valves would be a great idea while you are right there.. would only take a few min:beerchug:

Valve cover gaskets removed, covers cleaned, valves removed, head cleaned, brushed off the stator, exhaust and intake manifold gaskets removed. The intake manifold gasket was off on one corner. The rest of the gasket was the meanest little Son Of a Bee to get off this dang motor yet!!! Took about an hour on that one gasket!!

My dad dropped off a couple of antique ZIM hand crank valve lapping tools. Hoping the suction cups will be functional.

What do you folks use to shine the chrome on the valve stems? I am envisioning Easy Off oven cleaner and OOOO steel wool- an excellent combination to clean tar off motorcycle chrome without disturbing the chrome. Other ideas are certainly welcome. As I am not a mechanic and did not stay at a Holday Inn Express last night!!

Looking good! Should make someone a nice machine. :beerchug:

Looking good steve!!

I've always used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to clean up nasty valves... always worked great for me.. If your suction cups are too old you can by a cheap hand lapping tool at the auto parts store.. either use it or use the new suction cups on the old lapping tools your dad brought over.. those old school tools are pretty cool too!! :beerchug: