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Hydro Pump no pressure
3 Attachment(s)
Hello all - I am working on a IH Cub 782 after blowing one of the hard lines coming off the pump the system seems like there is air in the hydro system.
We replaced the line and yesterday I was able to get it rolling but today no dice. Yesterday we pulled the return line off and had pressure but today nothing. There is enough oil in the rear but my relief valves appear to be spitting quite profusely. I noticed that the input shaft is leaking oil onto the oil filter - need to know if anyone knows what model hydro this unit has and if there are any recommended parts providers. Thanks in advance all! :American Flag 1: |
Welcome to OCC!
You can use this fellow to rebuild the bleeding sundstrand dump valves. about 75% cheaper than new. ebay # 320670405175 How did you "blow" a steel line? never heard of one blowing! :bigthink: We need more info as what happened in order to answer questions. The seals are about all you want to replace exteriorly Taking the hydro apart is not only for the experienced, but most of the parts are sky high if available from Cub cadet or parts tree. a used hydro if a better option. |
Broken Steel Line
Good question Ol'George!
After years of wear and tear and my brother's use the rear bolts holding the axle to the frame came loose and shook the line till it broke. That was when we noticed the bolts missing - have since then replaced them. So if the sundstrand dump valves are rebuilt the pressure will come back and the system bleeds air from the many different pressures of the pump? I was able to get the wheels rolling but after trying to actuate the piston you could see it move a little bit and then stop and it would sink back into what ever position it wanted. Then the wheels stopped entirely. Thanks again all! |
No, those valves are for the hydrostat forward and reverse.
So, is the issue that the tractor won't move, or that the hydraulic lift doesn't work, or both? Did it shear the spirol pin on the input shaft to the pump? Very common issue that happens. Especially if your bolts were not present and it beat on lines hard enough to break them. If the rear is full, and the tractor is running, look to see that the output shaft sticking out the back of the hydro is turning. If not, you have a broken pin. If it is, then with the wheels on the ground, put the hydro in either forward or reverse and push the tractor the direction you picked. DO NOT move the lever but just a little bit. If the pump does prime it will begin working and moving like it should, so don't run over yourself. DISCLAIMER: This is safely done with two people. (For the lawyers out there. :bigeyes::biggrin2:) The system will self bleed once primed. Sometime it is hard to prime. On another note, you didn't punch a hole in the filter did you? Happens alot with the issue you had...... |
The pin is not sheered - I can see the shaft rotating in the rear of the hydro.
I do notice that there is no whine coming from the hydro like there was in the past when I was able to get it running so I believe it is not primed. Is there a specific procedure on how to complete the prime? Also I have looked the oil filter over and it is not punctured. Thanks all!! |
When was the last time the filter and fluid were changed?
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I do NOT know about the fluid or filter.
Filter looks newer? |
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Not 100 percent sure but I think the old filters are yellow and pretty sure they changed to white a couple years ago.
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You can remove the fill plug on the rear end and wrap a rag around an air hose
nozzle and GENTLY put a few pounds of air pressure in there to help prime the pump if for some reason it lost it's prime. Do this with the engine running,and the brake applied (locked down) to insure you don't run over yourself!! Do not subscribe to the theory, if a little pressure is good, a lot is better! I would @ least change the filter. |
The appearance of a filter means NOTHING. They aren't that expensive. Change it, take a magic marker & put the date on it....then you positively know.:IH Trusted Hand:
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Just a crazy thought, is that replacement engine turning in the right direction?
It should turn counterclockwise looking at it from the front of the tractor. |
It has worked in the past as far as the engine rotation goes to power the hydro.
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Yes, I realize all engines turn in the same direction. If, however,the drive can be mounted to the other end of the crank it would turn the pump backwards. If it worked with that engine before it's not his problem.
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OP: Get it primed yet? |
Pressure!
Good morning friends!
Just an update to my post - This morning I took off the filter to check for obstruction and found none. I do have a new filter on order... Placed the original filter back on and started it up. Following the priming instructions the pump has fixed itself. Seems to have had some kind of vapor lock as it hadn't run in over 2 years. Thanks mates for all the suggestions! :American Flag 1: |
Just a FYI you can use a NAPA 1410 or Wix 51410 filter available ay O'Rielly's or your NAPA auto parts store. It's still a good idea to replace the filter and fluid.
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Hydrostat seal at input shaft
After fixing the problem with the pressure, there is a leak and yes it is coming from the input shaft seal. Does anyone know if the part is known as the CREEPER OIL SEAL INPUT SHAFT 721-3011 (part number)?
I need to order one and am not 100% sure that is what I need. Thanks all! |
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921-3032 is what parts tree lists I can give you the John deere parts numbers if you want, as it uses the same hydro for most parts. |
That's not what you're wanting... Part #921-3032 like the one here.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...-transmission/ Item number 47 |
As always... you guys rock!
Thanks sooooooooo much! |
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