Cub Cadet 71 transmission problems
 

Ok, here's the deal. I bought this at an auction and it will only go into 3rd gear. It wont go into the others. I thought maybe when they were either trying to get it running or seeing what condition it was in, they may have bent some forks. Well I ran into a problem when I was trying to get to it. Seen unlike my 102, there's really no way to get into it without taking the axel off. I was wondering if someone may have an easier way to getting into it.

http://s22.postimg.org/4jxeiq281/IMG_0828.jpg

I think you have to pull the rear end out of the frame so you can get the cover top/shifter off if that is where you suspect your problem is. Someone who knows for sure will be along shortly. Of course you could do the unthinkable and cut the tunnel cover with a torch:biggrin2: Just kidding, seriously though someone did that on my dad's 100.

i was actually thinking of splitting the shield by drilling out the spot welds that hold it together and cutting it just enough to get a wrench in and bolt it back together but then again i dont want to do that lol

Take the rear end out. It's not that hard.

thats my plan but was just seeing if anybody had any tricks up their sleeves before i tackle it this weekend

Tunnel is welded to the frame, no way to get the top cover off without removing the trans. I'm guessing that's not what you want to hear, but you have to remove it to work on it. :ThumbsUp:

That's not at all funny John!

I have a 71 that someone used a hot wrench on to cut holes in the frame above each of the "hidden" bolts.

I cuss the PO every time I look at the darn thing.

I've seen more than one of that style butchered to make mechanic work easier. I'm certain that when the mods were done the owners were in no mood to think about restorers 30 years later :bigeyes: I would love to have been a fly on the wall to hear how the conversation in the engineering dept went that resulted in removable tunnel covers:biggrin2:

I would say that some of the IH mechanics had some input on it...... With mostly colorful verbage. :biggrin2:

I won't own a cub without a removable tunnel cover, if I ever do get a nf I will make it removable.

I won't own a cub without a removable tunnel cover, if I ever do get a nf I will make it removable.[/QUOTE]

I second that! This spring I am going to buy a new driveshaft from jeff, and I plan to mod the tunnel cover in my 124. But it will be done right so I can bolt it back on without weakening the tunnel.

Just as a note to you guys who want to cut the tunnel on your NF's. The frame on those older machines is a lot more rigid with that tunnel welded in place like it is. For the 3 times in the machines life that you need access inside, IMHO, it's not worth it. I'm fairly convinced that the reason that the old NF tractors rear end bolts never come loose is because the frame is so much more rigid. Just my :TwoCents: You guys can do whatever you want to your machines.

I wonder were there any frame changes to compensate for the loss of rigidity when they redesigned for a removable cover? Other than Cadets with alum rears, never personally knew of a cast rear to work loose in any machine.

Regarding mechanics input into a design change, one of my dad's favorite expressions was "They ought to have a some funerals in the engineering dept".

Once the trans-axle and sheet metal has been removed, the stern end of the Wide Frame models really is pretty flimsy (compared to the Narrow Frames).

I have learned to check the bolts holding the frames to the trans-axles on new to me Cubs (especially on Wife Frame models) I've gotten many with loose bolts and number of those have had a bolt broken off or missing.

I agree with this... bavk in the timber pulling out firewood with mine I've noticed alot less flex with the narrow frame

As far as pulling the pin for the driveshaft it can be accessed through one of the creeper holes fairly easy....I can pull the rear out of a narrow frame just about as fast as a wide frame....

NF are much more rigid than a WF. years ago we spent time measuring twist of the frames to see how much you could go before driveline binding started. . I've done the removable tunnel before then just bolt it on. now to the rearend, take it out. you aren't going to fix much once you torch to remove the shifter . you can look and maybe see whats wrong. but in most case's to repair it has to come out anyway