Thank you FrankF3 for helping me find my new (to me) 1772!
 

Thanks to this thread;
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=41365

I brought this home today;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...C7C74CDD4D.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...C2468759C6.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...0757568D7B.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...6511154BBD.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...74141B00FF.jpg

NICE!! You will enjoy that tractor! Congrats!! :beerchug:

My wife and I took a nice Sunday color tour drive to Smithville Ohio, to meet a wonderful guy (Steve) who collects Cubs and once in a while sells them.

Now get this, he had (9) diesels! Not a typo NINE! He is currently restoring a beautiful 782D, sitting next to it was a 1517(?) (same as the 782D just yellow and white not red?).

He said the 1772 we bought was the 20th cub he sold this year!

If any one is interested, he has a 1782 SGT for sale with a 60" Haban deck for $2,000.00

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...9EB6DBA87E.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...C4081B3316.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...8B9F7E9414.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...E3350BA52F.jpg

More pictures of the 1772;

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...2EA921FE05.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...BAD6F9205F.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...07CF3547D3.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...D806A3F321.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...826C7FEFB9.jpg

Cool 1772!

MWShaw, looks good and you even got the center cap on the steering wheel. None of mine have that. Make sure you check the rear and the driveline for any problems and you'll be good for another 30 years. Congrats on a great find!:beerchug:

Thank you!

Thanks!

Thanks, I was hoping you would chime in! I may have some questions for you diesel owners.

Like where do you set the throttle lever when trying to start the engine? Sounds silly, but does it matter?

MWShaw, congratulations on the purchase of the 1772! :beerchug: I am sure you will enjoy it. I was looking at that particular one myself. When I showed it to my wife, I got one of those looks again! This is especially true after the trip I dragged her on last year to Chicago to get my 1772. I am glad that me finding those on CL then posting on OnlyCubCadets helped someone out.

On the starting question....

When I start my 1772, I place the throttle lever at about 1/4 throttle. I've heard other say they use 3/4 or full throttle, but I prefer to take it easy on it. When I was working at a local farm in town, the owner's father went to start to IH 606 right after lunch to do some fall harvesting. Being 80 something he was set in his ways and set the throttle to full. He turned it over and there was a loud band and I swear one front wheel came up off the ground. When we tore into it, cylinder liner #1 shattered and as the piston came back down on the power stroke, it liberated the pison of all the ring lands and rings. Luckily, it also braked the engine to prevent further rotation and damage. We found when we went to put new liners in, that the bore for No. 1 was oversize from the factory and the liner would fall into place it we let it with no support from the block like the other cylinders did. I still remember that happening and that's one reason I take it at a slower initial start.

With your new 1772, like was previously mentioned, check the drive train before any damage happens. Also the circuit breaker near the voltage regulator, check that the terminals have a nut on BOTH sides of the terminals. There was a recall on this at one time when the terminals had only the plastic insulator on one side and one nut on the other. the terminals would heat up and melt themselves into the plastic deeper. Also check the front axle adjustment pivot bar adjustment. As when I got my 1772 there was a lot of adjustment I needed to take up. This helped get any wandering out of the front end.

WOW, now that's some cylinder pressure.

Okay 1/4 throttle it is!

And thanks again!

Congrats on the diesel. For what it's worth I start all my stuff at as low a throttle setting as possible. Takes a while till things warm up and the oil gets flowing.

Thanks Sam, I was having a hard time starting it last night, just wanted to make sure it wasn't where I had the throttle set.

Someone added a separate "knob" as a shut off, instead of just pushing the throttle lever all the way down.

When i got it off of the truck and in the shop, I noticed that the negative battery cable is loose, so that may have been why it didn't want to start.

The key will not start it, using a jumper wire to the solenoid. I think it needs a new ignition switch.

Plan to pull the seat pan off tonight, poer wash the crud off, try and pin point where the hydro is leaking from.

On the trip home with my 1772, I nearly lost the center decal/emblem on mine. the glue was dried out and not really holding. One edge was slightly raised and when I touched, it popped right off. I cleaned it up then bedded it down with some clear RTV. I did not want to use superglue of some other adhesive that would ruin or melt the emblem itself of the clear plastic center. When I think of that cap traveling at 65+ MPH all the way home, it's a miracle it stayed there.

So if it is not turning over when trying to start it, you could have the bad bat cable you mentioned, or one or multiple safety interlock switches preventing it from turning over, brake switch, the PTO Switch not being in the off position or bad, or a bad ignition switch. If it is turning over but not firing, could be glow plugs not heating up or lack of fuel. Whatever you do, avoid using starting fuel with these diesels.

BTW - if you have the separate shut off knob (The RED one?) make sure it is the correct position.

About 10 seconds on my glow plugs and my 1782 will start at any throttle setting... I like to start it at low throttle.. I hate to hear someone start one and take off... takes a minute for all that cold oil to flow! :beerchug:

Congrats on the new smoker! Looks to be in nice shape. While you have the fender pan off, I'd pull the tank and clean it well. Pull the shutoff valve and clean the little screen or replace the valve, and replace all fuel lines and filters. Fuel system maintenance is important and will go a long way. Every diesel that I have gets all fluids changed, fuel system cleaned and replaced, and the driveshaft fixed or atleast checked over. These diesels sip fuel and will run forever if taken care of correctly. I guess I got lucky since my 1772 still has the center cap. My 1572, it's missing in action.........

Thanks for sharing the pics and congrats! :beerchug:

Yes, it turns over. Just takes a while to start. It will try to fire, then just crank. I keep cycling the glow plugs and eventually it fires.

I do have the "red knob" I put it in the "in" position while starting.

Well, there's good news and bad news. The hydro leak is fixed. The front rag joint on the drive shaft, had loosened up just enough to hit the hydro line that feeds the lift cylinder. The fitting came loose and was leaking a good amount of HyTran.

I was able to tigthen up the rag joint and the hydro line. No more leaks. Pictures were hard to take but this is as good as I could get;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...960744435D.jpg

Now for the bad news;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...8CA484D5DB.jpg

Rear axle housing is broken. It is not leaking any fluid and none of the bolts are loose or stripped. It's just cracked. I wonder if Vince ever used that one I gave him from the 2072 I parted out.

But we spent some quality time with the power washer, it's a good solid tractor. I like it a lot.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...153A923CE6.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...3AF6A5BF79.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...B7C456C485.jpg
It had been leaking HyTran into the mower deck for a while;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...0195A1523C.jpg

Ran out of light, but I got the top layer off of it, anyways.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...DEF584116F.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...61AE0F05A9.jpg

Yeah, I'm wondering if one or more of the glow plugs are bad. Is there anyway to test them?

After it had its bath, I fired it up, to dry ever thing out.

That clutch on the rear of the drive shaft makes a clicking noise, is that normal?

It is at it's lowest throttle setting, it seems to idle high, or is it just me?

https://youtu.be/-4UEFGsUpmA

That clutch sounds just like mine on the 1572. I agree that the idle sounds high. Mine definitely idles lower than that.

Im sure you could test them with an ohm meter... just not sure what they should read.. more than likely if one or two are bad the readings would be way off or way different than the others. I have read that there is an upgrade glow plug from NGK that is more efficient but im not sure what the part number is.. maybe one of the other diesel members could help?:bigthink:

I know you can Ohm test them, but I just pull them out and run a power wire to the post and ground the body. The tip should get too hot to touch within a few seconds. I wouldn't put power to them for any longer than that.

The upgraded glow plug is a NGK Y-103V. These require 12 volts, so to use these you will need to do away with the glow plug light and run them thru a solenoid. I'm sure if you search you will find all the info you need on it.

The most of the 1772s (depecds on serial number) don't have the heating coil indicator like the 782Ds, 882s, 1512s,1572s. They use an indicator light bulb (just like the oil indicator light) that's driven off of a Kubota solid state timer. The ignition switch has a jumper across the contacts where the old heating coil indicator used to connect to and supplies 12V to the glow plugs. This comes as a good reminder for me to finish up the 1772 schematic I've got partially done that includes the timer and light bulb circuitry that Cub Cadet left off. I only have 1 or 2 more connections to trace off of the ignition switch.

Thanks for correcting me. I was not aware the 1772 had a different glow plug schematic.

Yeah, mine has the light on the dash. I'm trying to figure out the glow plug upgrade. Sounds like I need new glow plugs and a solenoid?

I just checked online. It looks like the 782D, 882, 1512 and 1572 all use the same glow plug - KB-15951-65512. The 1772 and 1882 (isn't there 1 more?) both use a KB-15694-65512 glow plug which is different from the other series. I tried to look up the specs for each to find what each are rated for with voltage, but have not come up with anything yet.

PS - I just found an NGK catalog online that includes glowplugs according to it...

782D, 882, 1512 and 1572 = KB-15951-65512 = NGK Y-103V

1772, 1882 = KB-15694-65512 = NGK Y-702R

I'm not fully up on glow plugs so maybe someone can chime in on them.

Very nice!! That's a good looking 1772, even has all the stickers:beerchug: If you haven't seen it yet here's a thread of what I did with my 1772.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=38179

Thanks. I just checked mine, with the key held in the left position, glow plugs are seeing 9.0 volts. If I understand correctly, I need plugs that can handle 12v and a relay to make sure they see 12 and not 9?
I read that complete thread, beautiful tractor. I'll be happy if mine comes out half that nice!

You do nice work.

Did some more digging here is a spec sheet for NGK glow plugs.


Attachment 69397

Awesome, Thank you!

Today's parts haul;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...C2584C3EFF.jpg

As I have said before, mine would not crank using the key. Some of the reading I had done here, indicated a faulty ignition switch.
$25.00 at the local Kubota dealer.
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...1A56465AE7.jpg
Problem is, after installing it, the engine still would not crank using the key?

So I did some wire chasing with the volt ohm meter. That lead me to this relay;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...B04B1770B3.jpg

A quick trip to the parts store, I installed the new one, viola! It cranks with the key.

Then I mounted this;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...F248F76BEF.jpg
on the air cleaner bracket.

Ran some 8 gauge wire, just have to finish running the couple wires.

I went ahead and installed these;
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...A4E83B462A.jpg

Still need to deal with the high idle.

Pretty productive day. Won't be long and I'll be mowing with it.

I appreciate all of the help, you guys have been invaluable, in getting this far.

High - idle? I had that on my 1772 when I got it. I disconnected the throttle cable at the injector pump, then started it to see if I could get a normal idle. I had a couple things wrong with it but mainly the cable was mis-adjusted in the clamp at the injector.

Okay, I could be mistaken, but I checked the voltage at my glow plugs with the key in the left position. I got 9v at all (3) plugs. That corresponded with what I had read, that they did not get a full 12v. I thought the 9v could be one of the reasons it did not like to start.

I installed the new ignition switch (because the tractor would not crank, had to jump the solenoid to start it) then the new glow plugs, retested the voltage at the glow plugs. Guess what, they showed 12v? Sooooooo I either messed up my first readings, or something about the new glow plugs / ignition switch enable higher voltage at the glow plugs.

No change to my dash board light, still lights up, while holding the key to the left.

I still plan to complete the glow plug relay install, because it just makes more sense, to load the glow plugs off of the battery / relay versus the ignition switch.

Yikes! I put the Y-103V in mine? Hopefully thats not going to cause a problem.:bash2:

I was messing with that last night, my throttle lever has too much play in it, not sure if that is related to it being retrofitted with the separate shut off knob? But definitely more work to do there.

As a side note, I went to my local New Holland / Kubota dealer to get the switch and glow plugs.

The parts counter guy was an older gentleman. He wanted to know what Kubota tractor I was working on, he was very dubious that I just walked in with part number for individual parts.

I told him I was working on a Cub Cadet with a Kubota motor in it. he went on and on about how Cub Cadet never put a Kubota motor in a garden tractor!

Once I convinced him it was a real thing, he says well that thing will run forever! Those little engines go for thousands and thousands of hours!

Funny interaction.

Both the Y-103V or the Y-702R glow plug will work. Below is some info I gathered from both the NGK website and pricing is from Amazon. As you can see, like everything else you get what you pay for.

Y-103V - Heats to 800° C in 15-17 sec. $8.39 ea
Y-702R - Heats to 900° C in approx. 6 sec. $21.34 ea

I run the Y-103V's in all of my machines along with the solenoid upgrade.

According to the spec sheet. The Y-702R unit is of a "double-coil" design.

The throttle lever does have play in it at the bottom end. The lever is sort of a 2 stage design and has a cam and a second lever behind the dash. As you lower the throttle speed, the speed section bottoms out then the shut-off comes into play for the rest of the travel until it reaches the bottom of the slot. You may be interpreting play at the bottom of the range, where the shut off/down area used to be and is now controlled by the second knob you have with the red button.