No more PointSaver
 

Just went to Dave Kirk's site to order a pointsaver for my 1650 and saw this;

"We are in the process of finalizing a new product that will replace the PointSaver transistorized ignition module. The new system, dubbed Trandenser II, is the size of a standard ignition condenser yet offers all the benefits of an electronic ignition system. This is made possible by use of modern, miniaturized electronics currently used in the automotive industry. The Trandenser II offers unparalleled ease of installation and improved ignition performance. It truly is a state-of-the-art product and we are very excited about bringing it to market.

At this time, the PointSaver is no longer available and has been removed from our product line along with the module/coil combinations. The Trandenser II will become available during the month of October 2015. For those who were planning on ordering a PointSaver or module/coil package, please watch this site for the new product release. "

Thats interesting!! Gonna have to give that a try if its not a million bucks.

So what does the points saver do anyway? I've never had an issue with my points so I'm not sure why this is needed.

It basically modernizes your ignition (maybe that's the wrong term). It takes the load off the points from sending the spark to the spark plug and instead turns it into a timer. You're supposed to get stronger more consistent spark. Supposedly it helps in cold weather starting as well. It also eliminates the condenser from the system as well as it basically replaces that. I had one on a 1450 I had and actually really liked it. Made setting the points a snap (not that it's hard in the first place) and seemed to help with starting the ol girl in cold weather although that could have just been the placebo effect. :beerchug:

Does it advance the timing at higher rpms?

I don't believe so, no. It's timing is still based off of whatever you have your points set at.

Same here.

It is basically a transistor. Instead of putting all the amperage through the points, the transistor takes over the job of collapsing the field and instead you just run a few milliamps through the points which now have the single job of telling the transistor when to open and close. By reducing the amperage at the points by a factor of thousands, it prevents arcing and corrosion thus "saving" the points.

Best explanation :beerchug:

Thanks for the explaination. :beerchug:

It's a $30 part that replaces a $7 part that does the same thing.

Maybe that's why they're NLA.

Or they found a way to improve it.

I semi-agree with John. It is an expensive part that replaces a cheap part. Is it any better? Maybe, yeah a teeny tiny bit. But is it worth the cost? That's up to the end user. The same could be asked of a $300 vs $6,000+ pair of speakers. Sure, the average joe may not notice a difference, but some people feel better and like it more, whether it's noticeable or not. I have invested money in frivolous things such as home audio, car audio, computers, vape gear, and more in my past. At the end of the day, it's all in what makes you smile. They have apparently sold enough of them that they've come out with a version 2 so it must be worth it for them on some level :beerchug:

Well to be fair it gets rid of the condenser too, so about 3 condensers and 1 set of points later you break even :biggrin2:

And if it starts easier when you have to clear snow, it's worth every single penny :beerchug:

( I run the stock points adjusted correctly on my 125's )

And even just having the small light to see when setting the points is a plus.

When you get older and cannot see as well or move around on the floor as well , anytime you can gain an advantage doing something , you take it.

I really like Darrell's view on the topic.
I avoid doing some work on my numerous machines because of the difficulty getting on and off the floor, bending and of course, seeing!
The differences of a 43 year old body compared to a 63 are numerous and none are good.
Then again, I don't run my machines enough to need a points change.

The device is definitely an improvement over stock ignition, but at that price point you have to ask yourself whether it makes financial sense. There's not much there, a $3 transistor and an LED, and so if you can make it yourself for $7, which is less than or about what it costs to buy a condenser, it would be a no-brainer. Maybe someone with more extensive knowledge of electronics can select an appropriate transistor(BU930?) and put together a simple schematic and post it here so that we can all make our own :beerchug:

I don't see any improvement.
My first Cub Cadet (149) that my Son and I purchase 15 years ago still has the same point and condenser in it. It gets run 40 to 50 hours a year with most of the run time in the winter.

Sure there is, it eliminates the condenser and reduces amperage at the points. Whether it impacts you personally is debatable, but if implemented over a million tractors to increase reliability by say 10% at little no cost over a condenser, that's an engineer's wet dream.

I doubt you are getting 10% more reliability in any of your million tractors your talking about. Good grounds, fuel, battery, grounds, wire harness and someone who knows how to set points are the keys to making your million tractors more reliable.

Whether we like it or not, whether it's .5% or 75% improvement, there is improvement. Sure, 95% of us Cubbers won't notice or need the difference but that doesn't make the difference nonexistent. Nobody said it would be day and night different or even really noticeably different, just that there is a difference. Replacing a condenser and with a solid state transistor system taking the load off the points is a thing and is an improvement, however insignificant or relevant. Please don't take this as an argument, a downing, or as any disrespect, I don't mean it as that. Just that given the choice, I would probably take a pointsaver style system over a traditional system from the factory. :beerchug:

This is like Deja vous all over again, I believe we got into this a few weeks ago. And a year before that and a year before that...

This is nearly as bad as the hydro/gear drive debate. There is no resolve to this topic, some people love them, and others don't know the point of them (no pun) and many of us simply don't see a need for them.

Depending on your method of timing an engine, I can see how the little light could help.

Sam,
Gear drive Cubs are the only way to go.:beerchug: (sorry Sam-had to do that)
:Cub2::biggrin2::biggrin2::beerchug:

I have to agree about the debate issues. The electronic stuff can be nice when it works right. As I said in a earlier post: Good grounds, fuel, battery, grounds, wire harness and someone who knows how to set points are the keys to making your Cub Cadet run right.

Your choice on what you want to use...I will stick with the old tried and true stuff.

what debate? if hydro's are so good why don't guys build them into pullers?:biggrin2:

I'd take it a step further and hook up the points to an Arduino controller. Then you can measure RPM and control ignition from there, and also do fancy stuff like adjust timing dynamically based on RPM. Maybe take some other measurements like voltage at the rectifier while you're at it and implement some diagnostics. Sounds like a good winter project :beerchug:

You guys actually made me laugh a little!

Although Merk and I don't agree on exactly how to adjust the timing, I do agree with the bold type above, and I do respect his opinion.

I also believe that hydros and gear drives both have a place in the real world, hydros for some things gear drives for others. If I could only own one Cub Cadet... I don't know that I could choose.

Although it is kinda hard to put a hydraulic lift on a gear drive for $150.00.

So a few weeks back I went out to fire up my 1200 for some fun and, no go. It sounded like it was going to start right off but then nothing, just cranked. So, opened the hood so I could see my pointsaver and watched to see if I had a flashing red led. It was there, but not a crisp clean on and off flashing but kind of a dull blurrr… First thing I did was remove my points cover, clean the contacts and voila! Nice crisp clean bright flashing led and the engine fired right up.

So, my question is,… could you just get a small led light, maybe like this;

http://www.wiringproducts.com/red-le...tor-light.html

or like this;

https://www.techtoolsupply.com/12VDC...-12vled-bl.htm


and wire it in with the points, mount it somewhere out of the way and have a handy indicator light?:bigthink:

Had one on my # 122, it seemed to run better? Or maybe I was brainwashed?

A friend of mine had 2 cubs & swore by them, that's how I learned about them.

I've got a extra one sitting in my cabinet that I was planning on putting it on my # 109, but now thinking of selling it.

Nik,

No.

If it was that easy, wouldn't people be doing it already?

Sometimes the easy things are overlooked.

My cub runs just fine without one of these. The last thing I need to be doing is adding electronics to it to "improve it" so when things go wrong there are even more variables. :BangPC:

:bigthink:
Maybe someone should try it? :Unknown:


:biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:


:IH Trusted Hand:

I don't know. That's why I'm asking.

No. You can't. It will ground the coil through the light and weaken the spark. If it doesn't just do the most likely outcome: blow the bulb when the points break from the electrical surge.

LED has no bulb to blow. Easy enough to try anyways.

That's what I figured would be the problem.

No, it has a diode to blow.


I'm sure I have no idea what I'm talking about. Someone should try it and tell us how it works. :popcorn:

So adding a resistor in line wouldn't protect the led?

Yes, lets add something to the system that will ground the coil. Just like the points do. How then do you suppose that spark would ever occur if there is another "wire" in the system grounding the negative terminal of the coil? :Unknown:


The little point saver has a module inside it. You cannot just add a light to the system. Seriously.....