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-   -   1650 Hydro Tie-rod ball joint (https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40280)

timbo2 08-06-2015 10:56 PM

1650 Hydro Tie-rod ball joint
 
While pulling the transmission today on my first Cork gasket replacement I broke one of the ball joints on the hydro tie rod.

Here is a pic, its the end by the steering column. I don't know which part # I need as there are different #'s for each end and the diagrams I found aren't clear.
So does anyone know if it's 923-3011 or 923-3012.

included extra pics of my project. -Thx

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...psyl0d82wq.jpg

bad gasket-
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...psyusoqhi4.jpg

new gasket:
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...psgtybvawo.jpg

Shims for cam plate:
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...psf1vektaj.jpg

cubs-n-bxrs 08-07-2015 12:52 AM

Tim I think it will depend on the rod threads. One end is a left thread and the other end is right thread. I ordered heim joints for my 1572 because the ball and socket was worn out on both ends of the shaft.

Group_44 08-07-2015 01:27 AM

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36244&highlight=super+ends&page=2

I've been down this road with my supers, although yours are most likely a little smaller(not positive on that). You will find the ones from McMaster Carr are cheaper that the ones from Cub Cadet. The one in your photo looks like it's a right hand thread. I upgraded the ones on my tractors to a heavy duty greasable joint, maybe overkill but still cheaper than the Cub parts. Determine what the thread size you need and if it right or left thread then look them you on this link. They are in stock and McMaster shipping is extremely fast. On Partstree they show that all the joints on the 1650 are the same(two on the tie rod, two on the linkage from the steering box) , the current part # is 923-3000 and are shown with a 3/8" x 24 jam nut so I would think they are all right hand but check yours. The 3/8"x24 ends from McMaster are less than 5 bucks.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-ends/=ydwvtb
Ball Joint Linkage


Shielded, Steel, 3/8"-24 Right-Hand Thread Size


http://images2.mcmaster.com/mvA/cont...ver=1312189461

timbo2 08-07-2015 12:16 PM

Thanks guys- the steering ball joints are too big for the hydro. I have a spare steering tie rod and the ball joints won't fit. Hydro needs 5/16's I think vs. 3/8.

Thanks for the link - lots of good stuff there, haven't been on that site for awhile.

yeeter 08-07-2015 06:08 PM

Double check the thread direction (looks like the left hand thread to me). They are different on each end but if me I would order one of each and replace them both (and that way can't go wrong)

Yes, smaller than the steering ends but you can just get the appropriate size from McMaster (5/16 is my belief)

bkw3614 08-07-2015 06:53 PM

If this 1650 has not been modified, Tractor Supply carries the MTD original equipment part for the Cub Cadets prior to 1985. I paid 14 dollars a pair for them and keep a spare set in stock.

They work on both my 1250and my 782. Be sure there is a lock nut behind them on the drag link or tie rod.

timbo2 08-07-2015 08:20 PM

Thanks all,

I ordered from Mcmaster Carr. I needed some other odds and ends and they are a good source for those (shims, heavy washers, coil pins).

I think its RH thread, hard to see in the pic but if you hold the rod vertical the threads slope from lower left to upper right.

drglinski 08-07-2015 09:38 PM

Wheee......hydro work! Isn't it fun? I did my 147 this spring.

timbo2 08-07-2015 09:56 PM

yeah a blast! My body hurt all over.

Although I think the worst part was the footplate screws on the fender assembly. On 6 out of the 8 I had to cut a slot in the screw head with my angle grinder and pound them out.

Hopefully I can get it back in soon. I'm gonna wait for the ball joint repair before I put the transmission back in.

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...pssy2bcczp.jpg

john hall 08-08-2015 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timbo2 (Post 340639)
yeah a blast! My body hurt all over.

Although I think the worst part was the footplate screws on the fender assembly. On 6 out of the 8 I had to cut a slot in the screw head with my angle grinder and pound them out.

Every time I've had to remove those I can't help but wonder WHAT was IH thinking. Same problem on removing the hood and grill from a Farmall Cub tractor.

timbo2 08-08-2015 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall (Post 340667)
Every time I've had to remove those I can't help but wonder WHAT was IH thinking. Same problem on removing the hood and grill from a Farmall Cub tractor.

Yep. I'm thinking SS hex bolts are going in.

Group_44 08-08-2015 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timbo2 (Post 340604)
Thanks guys- the steering ball joints are too big for the hydro. I have a spare steering tie rod and the ball joints won't fit. Hydro needs 5/16's I think vs. 3/8.

Thanks for the link - lots of good stuff there, haven't been on that site for awhile.

Sorry, I didn't read the post correctly, thought the picture was of the steering linkage. McMaster does have the 5/16" too.
:bash2:

timbo2 08-12-2015 06:14 PM

OK - Getting the rear back in and going pretty well.

Except I cannot figure out where the other end of this spring attaches?
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...pstfzqksba.jpg

crossingcrown 08-12-2015 11:06 PM

I think it hooks on the trans bracket. That iswhere mine is. I had a hella time getting it back on. Good luck brother.

timbo2 08-12-2015 11:13 PM

You mean the bracket that takes the short bolt connecting Trans to frame? Looks about right, should be fun.

crossingcrown 08-12-2015 11:17 PM

That would be the one.

ol'George 08-12-2015 11:19 PM

unwind a coat hanger, put a hook in one end, put it on the spring after feeding it in from the rear, and pull it back and over the bracket where it goes.
works pretty slick:High5:

crossingcrown 08-12-2015 11:23 PM

If you put the end in the bracket first, use something to pull the spring forward. I used my circular saw key. It gives you a lil handle. If someone else has a better way, hopefully it will help before my way. !

crossingcrown 08-12-2015 11:25 PM

Yeah, go with ol'G. I didnt have a hanger.

ol'George 08-12-2015 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crossingcrown (Post 341372)
If you put the end in the bracket first, use something to pull the spring forward. I used my circular saw key. It gives you a lil handle. If someone else has a better way, hopefully it will help before my way. !

Guess that might work also, more than one way to skin a cat ( can I say that in today's politically correct world?)
Guess I need a disclaimer that no dogs were applauding when this was done)

timbo2 08-12-2015 11:32 PM

Thanks for the ideas guys

timbo2 08-13-2015 07:12 PM

Wire hanger got it hooked up nice.

Hydro linkage operating well. Should get the shaft back in soon and then I'll jack up the rear wheels and check my neutral before I put the fenders and seat back on.

Thanks again fellas.


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