New 2084, New to Cubs in General
 

Hi everyone, thank-you for all the valuable information found here thus far. Sam has provided many threads that I have read, maybe too many in that I now have confusing information swirling around. If you don't mind me asking old questions, I'll get my needs straight on one page.
My Toro Proline suffered a gearbox failure, and was too expensive to fix, so while I waited for used parts to turn up I went looking for a suitable replacement. I needed 54in of cutting width, and I didn't want tinfoil box store junk. A 2084 turned up on CL, and after reading on here it seemed it was a well received model. For $500 I got a basic machine, no PTO or 3 point. Good plastic. It's running on one cylinder, a exhaust valve stuck, bent a pushrod, PO pulled the pushrods out, loosed the sparkplug and parked it. I grabbed a set of complete used heads off 'bay and a gasket kit. Hoping throwing a head on there and sealing it back up will finish the year out. It's got 640 hours on it, and a CH18 which I'm guessing should be a CH20? Which I could make a CH20/2 with a carb swap? Might do a teardown over winter.

So in closing, any counters to my ideal on repair?
Conflicting information on what oil to put in the engine and hydro?
Where are these cooling fins that attract grass that I'm suppose to clean out?
Rear end mounts look good, do I still need braces if not doing any pulling?
Grease the zerk on the drive shaft coming out of the engine, and something about CV joints I think?
Rev engine before shut off.
Anything else anyone wants to add, I thank you for your time.
Cheers
Brian
PS, in Central IL, and will probably be for sale at some point if anyone is that interested.

Where is "central" Illinois? :bigthink:

Way northwest of you in Peoria

The beast. Rear rims have wrong offset?

Nice for $500.

Check the heads for being flat.
I run Mobil 1 10w-30. I also added an oil cooler to the fan shroud.
Hydro, Cub Cadet Hy-Tran. Cub Cadet spin on hydro filter.

Cooling fins are on the engine. Remove plastic side panels, starter and all the engine sheet metal to clean. Look for all the slots. The heads heads have openings to clean. If too bad, pull the engine to remove the fan shroud for a more complete cleaning. To replace the cylinder head, the engine must be removed.

With the engine removed, disassemble the two CV joints on the drive shaft, clean and repack with grease. May need need new boots.

As I turn off the engine, I push the throttle up.

Hmm I wonder if this is the one I saw and considered getting. Do you know if it at one point HAD a 3pt on it? If so, the guy's been trying to sell it forever and last I knew was looking at selling the 3pt separate but he was asking more than you can buy a new one for.

Yes, I'm sure it was, 2+ month old listing in BFE Seaton and was selling for $895 with three point, I offered $500, and they countered with keeping the 3 point, and I said fine.

I'm curios to see how this turns out, I'll be following this thread. I offered to buy the 3pt off of the guy on more than one occasion and the lowest he ever came down was to $600 for just the 3pt :bigeyes: After the second or third time of talking to him about this I finally threw the towel in and said screw it, it's not worth it.

Tractor looked nice, I just didn't have any use for it. I hope this goes well for you, there's lots of great guys here willing to help :beerchug:

I thought the heads could be done in mower... :crap:

They had a bunch of 1752? diesels and really wanted to convert one to 3point.

So here was the problem head with the stuck valve

We managed to get the head replaced with the motor in the tractor. It runs pretty good, but could be better I'm sure. Having trouble figuring where exactly the throttle and governor springs go, if anyone has a top down picture I'd like to see if they are connected properly.
As it is, it is a terrible mower for the yard, spins out on every little hill it seems, can't hardly climb anything. Do I need wheel weights? Never used those before, are they generic or custom?
I don't think the rear brake controls are working, can't lock up a wheel in spin.
Any way to get more speed out of reverse?
Thnk-you

Brakes are easy to adjust, get some wheel weights for petes sake. Atleast 75 lb ea... will be a different machine. Dont have to be special. Cheap plastic covered cement weights for like 100 bucks will fit... ANY 12" weight will work... deere simpl bohlens etc...

From my 2284-
http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8k8c9qn0.jpg

Thanks for the picture Tim
First glance those weights aren't as easy to find as one would think.
Also forgot to mention, won't start with key, solenoid is good. Would it be that small black relay down by starter with like four wires in it?

There are multiple safety interlocks. Brake must be depressed, transmission in neutral, PTO off and seat occupied. If all interlock switches are made, then the relay energizes providing power to the starter solenoid. My 1864 does not have the relay. I have had to replace the key and brake switch as they both became unreliable. I also think my PTO has occasional random times of no continuity. So, the PTO is next to be replaced. After 20+ years with year round use, new switches are due.

Loading the tires with water or ballast fluid will make as much or more difference than wheel weights.. It is also a lot cheaper than weights. it will be a different machine with weights or ballast fluid or both.

Can I run a wire directly from key switch to relay?

Toro is fixed. Will be taking offers on the 2084 in the $800 range.

Did you get it fixed? Does it have the 3pt? What comes with it? Details, man! I may be interested :bigthink:

It's running and mowing, mowed yesterday. I have to start it by a jumper wire because I haven't been able to figure out why the key isn't working. Still need throttle and choke adjustment to be right, and brakes adjusted. No 3pt or pto.

Check your PM's :beerchug: