123 won't budge
 

After rebuilding my PTO and carb, my 123 sounds great and my blades spin perfectly. I got the carb rebuilt (ty Alvy) a few days ago and mowed a little, but was leaving ruts with all the rain we've been getting. So I was satisfied and put the 123 in the barn.

I just went out to do some mowing, but she won't move at all. She fires right up and sounds good, but nothing engages when I push my stick F or R. Not even trying to move. I don't even know where to start. Any advice?

My first thought is that a pin broke in the driveshaft, I'd remove the deck and crawl under to take a look.

Before removing the deck, can you shine a light from the back of the machine and see the back of the hydro pump to verify the hydro is spinning with the engine running (parking brake on)? I'm not familiar with narrow frames enough to know if it's possible. If it's not spinning engine speed you have a broke pin like Tim suggested.

Bill

Or look thru the screen at backside of engine.
While turning engine over to see if driveshaft turns with engine at engine end.
There is another pin at the other end of driveshaft with a rag joint then another pin.

Seems like the pin in shaft at engine is the one that breaks first.

If it is the engine end pin, you need to fix the coupler on the engine that pin rides in.
The pin slot becomes "L" shaped.
You can fill weld the worn portion of slot and grind it back to what it looked like new.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...c.jpg~original

OK, so this must be my culprit


http://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/...psiee3auzz.jpg

Any chance I can just slide a new pin in?

I would fix that coupler first. You can just push a pin in if you want. Probably will fall out again though cause it fell out once it will do it again. Jeff in PA has solutions for your problems.

Yup that'll do it every time.

A 1/4" bolt and lock nut will get you by until parts come if you need to use the tractor.

Diagnosed and repaired without setting eyes on it 007! I have no experience welding, so should I try to find a replacement?

Terry, does Jeff have a website?

Olds, I saw a few pics of people using bolts on theirs. Any reason a high quality bolt and locknut wouldn't be a permanent replacement?

http://www.cubclassics.com/ih-394034-r32%20hydro%20drive%20hub[1].JPG

or this one with driveshaft from one of this websites sponsers. But I think it is made of platinum.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-Dr...item35e5adbe49

You could use a bolt. But it is a crap shoot as to how long before it shears the bolt.
I think, the engine firing "pulses" are what lead the pin to hammer into the coupler and wear the renegade slot in the coupler. Then it shears off or is thrown out of shaft.

Then what ever bolt you put in gets hammered until it shears off too.

I think Jeff in PA does make a replacement pin that is a tad bigger to fit tight in the hole. But that worn coupler will still allow the pin to be constantly hammered.

A grade 8 bolt has lasted longer than the pin on my 129.

For what it's worth I've been able to put a new pin in and wrap it a dozen or so times with electrical tape to help hold it in... quick fix that will get ya by till you can do a proper repair....

A number of the guys have said that they put in new pin and put a hose clamp around it to hold it all together, with good results.

Never had to do that myself, but I've heard it from people here who I trust.

Get the correct parts when you can and fix it right. Why butcher something together when parts are available? Almost positive Jeff in PA makes what you need.....:beerchug:

Very true Yosemite Sam! I have one set up that way on one of my 129's and it has held for the last 4 years without any problems.


Great advice Todd. The pins are there for a reason--as weak points in the drive line that are intended to shear when the drive line is stressed so that pins could be replaced instead of more expensive parts. Putting a bolt in can be used in a pinch, but should not be used for a permanent fix.

Cub Cadet 123

the cheapo quik fix is to put a pin in and secure it with a grooved hose clamp to keep the pin from falling out. Then the cover can be put back on to cover up the ugliness. Yes the worn slot will keep growing tho.

mine was welded together by previous owners - crazy yes but it never came apart again.

This was my cure for that on my 149. I cut the worn out stuff off in my chop saw and used part of a 2000 series drive shaft. It still has the rag joint on the pump end. You can see in the first pic that the PO had done the bolt trick.

I have a ujoint setup I'm gonna try, I need a quiet line engine coupler first. Dave Kamp outlines the procedure, its way overkill, will outlast the machine. Had my machinist buddy cut a groove in the driveshaft for a key, got 2 yokes and a small ujoint.
Sam, the only 2000 series driveshafts I have found are pricey(2 bills) or I would have gone that route, I also thought about the wire and electricity fix. How much flex can there be with everything mounted solid?
This was all FUBAR when I got it, I had the coupler welded up, a new driveshaft and pin, after about 3 hrs run time it sheared the pin. Been rollin ever since with a bolt.

Guess you didn't try the sponsors or rweaver. Last complete use 2000 series shaft I bought was around $60.00

The 2-3000 series drive shaft stuff is not a big mover for the guys that recycle old tractors so they are normally a cheap item.

I knurl a pin to increase the diameter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...0.jpg~original

It may last a while or get thrown in short order depending on how bad the original hole is.

Just yesterday I bought a 2166 shaft assembly with all the poly slugs and both end cups off fleabay for $65 delivered.

Still use a rag joint at the other end or no?
If the driveline has no rag joint(s) or poly slugs somewhere I would think an all metal set up would send vibrations thru out the tractor.

Yeah Illl be using a rag joint up front-a quiet line coupler.

Jeff I've always wanted to ask what do you use to do this? Do you have a special tool or machine or chuck it really slow in a lathe? Always wondered

A special tool to form the pattern and a true industrial lathe to make it work. My 12" x 30" Monarch lathe weighs 4000 lbs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...1.jpg~original

It's a knurling tool made to do that. Most have two small rollers with grooves on the outside of the rollers. The one in the pic is a diamond pattern, some are just straight lines. Takes quite a bit of pressure pushing the two rollers into the part to be knurled. And yes you don't turn the lathe very fast.

Sorry Jeff I don't type very fast

Correct. It takes a sturdy machine to form knurls.

I must "hunt and peck" with two fingers faster than you :beer2:

I've got two of those pins on order currently. We'll see how well they work when they get here. :beerchug: